Jimini

I agree. I turn the slide upside down and fill the locking groves with Amsol (like mobil 1) before I insert the barrel. Very liberal at every friction point and especially the hood.

I just looked in the Blue Press and a new one can be purchased for 556.95. Case feeder 217.95 with one casefeed plate. Roller handle 42.95. That's 817.85. You make the call. Personally for that little difference, I would go new.

I know a fellow in South Carolina that has this very color combination and it is a great looking work of art. Brandon does a good job.

I tried the Sordins but my mellon is too big and they did not fit properly. If you wear a size 7 1/8 size hat, or larger, I recommend some other brand. The Sordins I bought was marked "M-L". When I called to see if they had the XL to swap, they informed me that they only came in this M-L size. I then tried the "behind the neck" style but did not like the fit on those either. (something about the over the head strap in addition to the behind the head band just did not feel right.) So I'm still in the market.

This is very strange. I did not write this post. Either someone has hi-jacked my "Jimini", or Brian's computor has crossed up somehow. I do have a revolver but only one CR speed holster.

This is the large primer plate installed in the machine. You must replace it with the small primer plate...or start wearing some ear protection. Make sure you also replace the primer tube as well.

Another technique is as soon as you feel the arm begin to lockup, stop...lower the arm just until the Primer Index Arm is no longer touching the plastic activator. lift up on the Primer index arm until the indexing paul is no longer in the primer hole. While holding the Index arm up, complete the stroke. The next index should work as normal. If it tries to lock up again, you must not try this technique a second time as there will not be a primer ready for the new round.

My original 2001 had the motor replaced shortly after I bought it, under warrenty. The replace motor was not the one they are installing now. This one is about 4 years old and has a cooling fan just inside the motor case and the bottom of the motor case is open for ventilation. I don't think this motor is currently being used because a friend has just bought a 2001 and his motor is not like mine. His is completely sealed. Mine had a little bearing squeel a few days ago so I called Dillon. They want 99.95 for a complete rebuild. I was going to ship it to them but when I had it upside down I noticed the lower bearing was exposed. I filled the little sucker with grease and have had no more problems with it.

You can also move the locking nut under the tool head rather than installing it on top. This will give you a little more room. I use this technique on my Lee Factory Crimp Die.

My question is how do you make major with that load?

You have high primers. More pressue on the handle when you set the primer. If you can scrape your nail across the bottom and "feel" the primer, it's too high.

Super comp, TJ, and RL are basically the same base...measures .385 or so. 38 super measures .400, or so. The difference is if your gun is set up for super, you DON"T want the others in the mix. If you are set up for SuperComp, then TJ, or RL will function with your extractor. You will have to change the load for the TJ, and RL about .2. If there is ever a question, just measure the base of the brass.

Would I be better off trying a shorter COL (1.195"/1.20") or could I try to reach major with more powder? TIA There is an advantage to loading longer bullets. Accuracy increases can be noticed by moving the bullet as close to the lands as possible. Each barrell is cut differently by the smith as to his personal preference so this has to be measured. Next, pressure can be reduced since it takes less pressure to get the bullet moving down the barrel. I like the longer COL for that reason. Less wear. If you have the col that works in your gun, the advise to build a load for that col is good advice. remember too, you can reduce your powder charge by .2 if you use Small Rifle primers and maintain the same speed. It don't sound like much, but primer cost is the same for both, but just imagine you save .2 per round times (how many rounds do you shoot a year?)

Dude, where are your priorities?

Dude, where are your priorities?

I've been shooting Dave's bullets for the last 4 years. I also shoot lead for periods of time because it's less expensive. I find that my barrel is easier to clean after using Dave's bullets and I don't see any unusual wear.

Do yourself a favor. Buy the 650. You will never be disapointed or wind up blaming yourself for not getting the case feeder. I've had one for over 10 years and love it.

It's just a matter of adjustment. The rod is adjustable on both ends. If it catches a little on the top, lower it...and visa versa. That chirp is anoying though.

Dont forget the oil. It's the most important. If you fail to properly lube the spring and guide it will cause damage. Make sure it's wet. Jim Norman-Florida Dont forget the oil. It's the most important. If you fail to properly lube the spring and guide it will cause damage. Make sure it's wet. I'd do this first and then test before I spent a lot of time working. More than likely this will solve the porblem. Jim Norman-Florida

I have been using the Precision bullet in .40 S&W for practice and match with little problem. What litte residue is quickly removed with Carbon Killer. Smoke is greatly reduced over lead and the bullet is accurate. My only complaint is sometimes the primer don't go off on the first hit

When I am loading 38 super where the case is nearly full, I move the seater die next to the powder die (position 3). The powder die must be in position two. this helps to eliminate powder spillage as the case moves around. I don't need the powder check die because you can see the level in the case as you set the bullet. Also it is not hard to reach in as another poster suggested. When loading 40 or other cases where the level in the case is half full or less, I use the powder check on 3 and move the seater to 4.

I did a simular fix on mine. This works good.

Ok, What is a PITA?

Please forgive, but I would NOT recommend a square deal. It's not that much more money to get a 550 which is a more versatile press and will allow you to use standard dies. I had a SDB and was very unhappy with it. Dillon worked dilligently (no pun intended) to repair it but to no avail. I use the 650 and love it...and Dillon. Jim Norman-Florida

Hard to beat the 650 for the money or versitility. Expensive to load the second caliber for the 1050 but it is still a one time fee. I have the 650 and if I had to buy again, it would be the 650.