Clay1

Shot a Browning O/U until I started to shoot multiple tournaments each weekend then went to a Beretta 390. Ended up getting the kid a 391. Beretta makes a wonderful auto for the serious competitor. By the way my coach had me take the mag cap off of the gun and replace it with a hydraulic recoil dampener. This added weight, reduced recoil even more and smoothed out my herky, jerky mount. Haven't followed who is the main man these days but Scott Robertson was winning everything he pointed that Beretta of his at when I bought the 390. When I bought the Browning 325 Andy Duffy had just won the world shoot with one. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a gun swapper from hell. I think too many people change guns too easily and don't work through the differences very well with each new gun purchase before they try something different. A nice auto these days is awfully sweet to shoot though. Rick

It's nice to see that some people understand "what needs to be done". Others in our society just have this urge to go hug a tree. To each his own, but if I had the same problem your response seems perfectly correct to me. For some reason the racoon population has exploded in town recently. Probably the lack of pelt hunting / trapping but their feces are extremely dangerous to young children. Forgot the name of the disease that they carry but am close to a 124 grain gold dot solution. Glad things worked out for you.

I encourage people to shoot a few rounds of skeet before they start with sporties. Skeet targets go to the same spot EVERY TIME. When you shoot sporting clays you really only see the target presentation once or twice and then you move on to a different target all together. Rick

Clear as mud, but I am actually getting it. Thanks for the wonderful explainations on how the scoring points work, hit factor and match points. This thread really fills in many of the questions that I had. I think that IDPA is a lot easier to follow for newbies, but that the USPSA system is a more accurate way not only to classify but to score a total match. Thanks again, guys. Rick

I'm shooting more USPSA now than IDPA (still shoot both though) and need some help with the scoring in USPSA. I did a search under scoring but didn't find what I was looking for. I have read chapter 9 in the rule book but that still isn't what I am looking for. I hate to admit it and ask a dumb question, but I need to understand this stuff to do my best. I get it in IDPA: it's time based + points down which are translated into more time + penalties. Can someone direct me to the correct spot in the rule book and it isn't chapter 9 on scoring that tells you everything but says nothing about how many points an A is worth. When I shoot matches I just try to shoot as fast as I can shoot with the best accuracy that I can muster, but something tells me if I understood the scoring better I would maximize my points better than I am now. Let's look at CM 99-11 El Presidente. It is a 12 round course which equals 60 points so each shot equals 5 points? A miss equals -10, procedurals equal -10. Now the time and the hit factor??? If there is a thread or a section in the rule book will you just point me in the right direction and I would appreciate it. Sometimes I think that it is all coming together and then others I just miss some main points of the game. Help!

Marine shooter, some of the best shotguns in the world are Italian. Looked at a Storm myself; the concept seems to be there but as the famous quote goes: "Only accurate weapons interest me".

Pulled one of my G34s appart today and cleaned and lubed (sparingly) and installed a Wolf overtravel stop. Put it all back together and grabbed the scale. Trigger is breaking at 2 pounds 12 ozs and the overtravel is greatly reduced. Like the new set up, but will know better after a few thousand rounds. Rick

One day does not make a true training regime, but today I spent over an hour dry firing with Matt Burkett's dry fire drills on his web page. I then watched Steve Anderson's videos on his web page and went through the 10 or so drill videos he has on his site. I also ordered Matt's new video and Steve's book. I have read Brian Enos' book already. I'm a C class shooter who has just begin shooting this year First match in Jan. I've shot about 5000 rounds so far this year in live fire but am not committed to dry fire like I should until today. I have two months to go to shoot the State IDPA shoot and want to seriously train for it not just shoot hap-hazardly. I've set a goal to dry fire Every Day for a min of 1/2 hr and live fire 2X per week with at least one match on the weekends. I am planning on letting Mr. Anderson's book be the guiding light on what to work on. What do you think of the plan of attack and am I all wet or is this a reasonable approach to a more serious practice plan. Would love to hear how much other's actually dry fire/ shoot live fire / month. Thanks for any help or a kick in the rear to shove me in the right direction. Rick

"Half the Limited GM's that got there shooting a Glock...they did so with a G20. " They got there with a 10mm? I always thought most people shot a .40 and very few shot a 10mm mag. You learn something new all of the time, I guess. Rick

Personally enjoy closer hose 'em stages but wouldn't want the whole match like that. I enjoy balance that tests various skills. If a match has one good hoser stage, one long range stage, a max round count stage and an intermediate range life is good. Variety is a match is the key.

Joe, I would bet the Seattle slug is very illegal in all divisions with the new rule book. Did you do your own triggers or send the guns out?

Mark was right about the brass magwells, here's the exact text thanks to cut and paste: "1. Non-IDPA-Legal Modifications for ALL Divisions The following modifications are NOT ALLOWED IN ANY DIVISION unless otherwise specifically mentioned. A. Compensators of any type including hybrid or ported barrels. B. Add-on weights for a competitive advantage (this includes, but is not limited to, weighted magazines, tungsten guide rods, brass magazine wells, weighted grips). C. Heavy and/or cone style barrels without a barrel bushing. D. Sights of non-standard configuration (i.e. Ghost rings, Bo-Mar rib, etc.). E. Disconnection or disabling of any safety device on any gun. F. Lights mounted on guns." Rick

I shoot a G34 with the Novak full length SS guide rod with a Wolf 12# spring (it fits the large diameter of the Novak guide rod) it also wears the JP mag well. My trigger work was not polished at all but rather I put in a reduced Wolf striker spring which brought the pull down to just under 3 pounds. It goes bang everytime and I don't wonder about anything too goofy happening with the trigger and the $5 spring was a hellofalot cheaper than the alternatives.

If you have a previously built locking paddle it might not make it. I still wanted this style after the new rules went into effect and called Greg the owner. He asked about my build and exactly what belt I was using. I am using a Wilderness Instructor's CSM belt and Greg built one for me that has absolutely no light in the belt channel area and is PERFECTLY legal. I liked the holster so well that I bought one for my wife that is offset some. Bluntly she doesn't compete and I wear that one once in a while for a USPSA match. Really like the chainmail finish as well. Now if I could just shoot as good as I look with the nice gear on

Cautery, I shoot production/SSP and a non stock part will make my equipment illegal so that option is out. Still haven't settled on a good way to release the slide after a slide lock. Just seat the mag HARD and hope it drops. If it doesn't the first time, it still is easier for me to just bang the hell out of the mag a second time and hope that it drops and if it does the hand is going over the port and racking the slide. I shoot a 9mm Glock without an extended ejector and factory ammo and have decided to take my chances at this point. If I ever shoot a 40 with an extended ejector and handloaded ammo I will have to reconsider. Rick

Flex, I know that you shoot a Glock or several. What are you using for sights? I really don't plan on getting rid of the Dawsons - I like them even if I bleed once in a while More like a scratch most of the time. The AmeriGlos I will replace. I just shoot the thinner front much better. The extended Bomars sound like a good thing if they are cut at 45 degrees to not take skin off. Maybe it would do my shooting good to keep the same sight picture on both guns. Dawson will probably release the rounded corner sights one day - but when. I guess a file with a little cold blue wouldn't be the worse thing to do. Rick

Remember that if you change from the stock guide rod material to SS you move from SSP to ESP. If you do want to go SS, (yes, Titanium is illegal all together) the Novak full length is wonderful. Here's a link: http://www.handgunneroutlet.net/parts/part.htm I have no afiliation with Novak except being a happy customer. On the Novak guide rod with my 9 mm I run a 12# Wolf. With the stock GR that I run on my production gun I run a 13# ISMI. These are both 9s again. I see many 40 shooters using a 15# ISMI. Good luck on your choices.

I am running two Glock G34's - one for Production/SSP and the other for ESP. On the "production" gun I run a Dawson FO front and a FO rear. The sights are very high quality and I shoot this set up well (for me). The other G34 had AmeriGlo Slope night sights. While the night sights are very stabile (read solid and durable) and extremely bright, I don't shoot them as accurately as I do the Dawson's. I believe the AmeriGlo's are wonderful for their intended purpose as a combat style sight, but for the games that I play, I would like something different. I'm going to replace the AmeriGlo sights. So you would think I would automatically purchase another set of Dawson's. My only concern with the Dawson sights is that the corners of the rear on mine is so sharp that is has actually drawn blood on my forearm area. Not once, but many times. I called Dawson and asked about them beveling this area and they said that is something that they are working on, but they are having such demand for current product that it is difficult to release new product. I could take a file to them, but don't like that option. The other two options are the Bomars - (not the melted version) and am not keen on them with the overhang. Then the Heinies, but I still like the adjustables. I had to order a higher rear sight on the AmeriGlo's to get them to hit POA for me. So how about a push in the right direction. Bomar, Heinie with Dawson front or a file with the Dawson's or just wait until they MIGHT release a beveled rear?

Eric, how did your sight purchase go? Did you get the Heinies? A little different gun, but I shoot Dawson adjustables on one G34 (yes, I read that you are not interested in adjustables) and AmeriGlo Slopes on the other G34. The G34 with the AmeriGlo sights required that I get the higher rear sight to make it shoot to poa with a center hold. When you say "pumpkin on a stick" I think of classic target sight picture = 6 O'clock hold. You use a 6 o'clock hold to shoot USPSA? Just currious that's all. I am in the process of replacing the AmeriGlo's. Even though they are solid and very bright night sights, I shoot more accurately with the Dawson's. The thinner front blade seems to be more condusive to accurate shot placement for me. I'll start a different thread on those sight replacements, but was interested in your findings with the Heinies. Thanks

Been blazing at the last couple of matches and doing OK. Been trying to shoot fast. I have a match this Sunday and want to focus on shooting more accurately so will force myself to "see" more detail before the shot breaks. My draw times in competition range around 1.2. On the range a one of (as Brian calls it "the limits of human function") for me is a .67. Today I was practicing for 99-06 and found that my draw can vary greatly depending on what level I want to see. In a type 3 draw and fire it is about 1.2 / 1.3 if I do the type one (not at 10 yards though) I can regularly hit the .8s. Like you I would really like to find a level and stay somewhat consistant. 99-06 has two targets of the three targets at 30' and one at 40'.

Looked at a ton of lights and read all kinds of reviews. Bought an Inova T3 today with 85 Lumens for $50. This won't be the only light I own - it's kind of like owning one gun you have to have more. Check out the review: http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/inova_t.htm Nice reviews on just about any light you have ever thought of. A good source of info. Rick

Duane, I'm sure that you are going to love the X200. I bought a M3X from Botach for $119 a while back and the 125 weapon light has seen a lot of action around the farm already. My neighbors all know that I am the local gun nut, (from the number of rounds fired) but when I set up a night course out in the field and shot that about 11:pm some of them thought I had totally lost it. I appologized the next day. Now I tried to tell everyone that we are not being invaded it is just me practicing with the new light. Still haven't made a buying decision yet. I teeter between an m2/3 on the high end and a Z2/3 on the lower end. Anyone have any places to buy these at great prices? Botach doesn't carry the Z, C or M series. Rick

Jayman, the reason that I want the slide to shut without having to hit the slide release is that I can't manipulate the slide release without changing my grip. I shoot a G34 with the extended release and still have this issue. I have experimented with manipulating the slide release with my weak hand, using the sling shot method and using my strong hand. None of the options I do 100% of the time. I just need to get a method and stick with it so that 1) it works all of the time for me and 2) it needs to be as fast as possible while being safe. (look at threads on hand over the ejection port and rounds going off while ejecting cases).

By the way it is much cheaper than the 3X magnifier and the Aimpoint combined. Nice review on several optics in this month's American Rifleman. If you don't get the magazine, join the NRA and see what you have been missing. Rick

Troy, the pricing is better here and I haven't looked too hard for the best prices: http://www.riflescopes.com/departments/270...riflescopes.htm