ams30gts

Ok I managed to get the bolts loose. Now getting this thing setup is a pain. Been sitting here for the past 2 hours following the directions, but not working right still. When I adjust the front part of the arm I can get it to touch the bottom cam stop which looks good. Then the top stop is way off. I adjust the rear part of the arm and it throws off the front. Is there a secret in setting this up I don;t know about? What is your method of setting it up?

I actually took the arm off and put it in a vise. Used a combination wrench and it still wouldn't budge. I can only assume PW used air tools on something meant to be hand tightened. This is the final result on the nut.. You can probably feel my frustration. My autodrive took 4 days to ship when it was supposed to in 1-2 days. Shipper forgot to put my unit number on the address label so I had to call to get that fixed and delivered the next day. The day of delivery the Fedex driver decided to cut his day short and say I wasn't home when He tried to deliver. Then I had to call Fedex to complain and go pick it up on the next day. I finally get my autodrive and the bolts are so tight the bolts holding my vise on a 1" ply workbench almost ripped out. Now I have to wait til Monday to call PW and most likely have to send the arm back to them and wait another 2 weeks before I can be back up and running.

Sounds like you got crimped primer pockets on your brass.

My PW autodrive finally arrived and now I'm having trouble setting it up. I followed all the instructions until you need to make the adjustments. I try and rotate it by hand, but it won't make a complete revolution. I believe I need to adjust the actuating arm either longer or shorter, but for the love of god I can't get the lock nuts to budge. I tried 2 wrenches and the nut is starting to round. Is there something I am doing wrong? This is how far it will go before the clutch kicks in...

Actually I just found it! Thanks though

It goes out the same side the other pin sticks out. That's assuming I didn't put it in backwards initially.

Anyone know the Super 1050 crank handle lock screw size? After putting my 1050 back to stock, I can't find the lock screw. Just wondering if anyone knows the size so I can run to HD and see if I can find one. Would hate to have to order from Dillon and pay $10 shipping for a $2 screw. Dillon part # is 13432

I make my own lanolin/alcohol mix for rifle only and One Shot for pistol. Takes a much shorter time tumbling to get One Shot off. I stopped using One Shot on rifle after the 2nd stuck case.

Dooooood. I did this once and bent the heck out of my shell plate.

I assume you are talking about mixed caliber brass. I wouldn't try it. I just use these...

I'm pretty sure it is from a Dillon press, but can;t figure out what it is.

I tumble my loaded pistol rounds in corn for maybe 30-1hr.

I started with a 650 and now I have a Super 1050 and 550. All have worked perfectly fine out of the box. I only started having trouble when I added a autodrive to the 1050.

Since you already reload, I assume you already have the basics (tumbler, calipers, etc etc) You will need the following... Press 9mm caliber conversion kit Primer flip tray Spare parts kit Things that are nice, but not needed.... Bullet tray Strong mount Roller handle Press cover Extra primer tubes If you are going to add a caliber.... Conversion kit Toolhead Powder die Die set

The 550 cover is nice and works well, but if you plan to get a case feeder, it will not fit.

This is what I do.

They should be just fine. The barrel test is the only one that really matters.

Today my counter started acting up. But so far it has been working great. It started jumping numbers and would constantly reset. Time to get a new counter from China!

Mine only started having these problems after the conversion, but can't figure it out.

I had the same issue as rjacobs. Once in a while the pawl wouldn't fully reset and it just rode the bottom of the shell plate. I filed a tiny bit off the top and it indexes all the way now. Here is a list of things I tried.... Dillon Factory Parts Limiting Screw backed out a lot, so it is not stopping the index arms progress. New Index Arm + Pawl + Spring + Bolt. Same problem. Cleaned and oiled index detent ball and spring Tried new index ball spring Forcht Parts New Index Dog Oversized index roller It works most of the time, but I still do not trust this machine while processing 223. It processes pistol just fine, but I don't trust any machine to do the priming.

Sorry to thread jack but maybe one of you guys can help me with mine. I have no idea what it is, but mine doesn't always index all the way. I had Craig make me a oversized index roller and it works most of the time, but there are still instances where it doesn't engage the ball detent.

I reload tons of 9mm brass from Glocks and various pistols. I use Dillon dies and have never had any issues with Glocked brass.

I sacrificed my garage parking spot to use most of it for my reloading presses etc. There is stuff everywhere, but here are the benches.

Thanks for the info. Will go ahead and load some ammo without worrying.

I have a Forcht on one of my 1050s and I think I am the only person with mixed reviews of it. When it works, it works great. But I always have to fiddle with it. If you go with an autodrive, make sure you order TONS of pawls.