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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Delfuego

  • Rank
    Looks for Match

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  • Location
    Scottsdale AZ
  • Interests
    Precision Rifle Junkie
    God Awful Pistol Shooter
  • Real Name
    Pedro D

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  1. Barrels speed up and it takes approx 100-200 rounds down range to get a consistent velocity. You're "breaking-in" any way during that time. Nobody I know will show up at a big match without at least 150 down the tube. I think it's comes down to: If you want to, knock yourself out. If you don't want to, well that's ok too. No "empirical evidence" either way. I think it's dumb to argue about it. There are 20 page threads dedicated to "know it all's" arguing about this. My recommendation is for the OP to decide to break-in or not break-in, and tell us how it went.... Cheers!
  2. Definitely clean it before you send that first round. Make sure the barrel is clean and dry. I still do some break in. Not a ton, but some. I figure why not, I just spent +$700 on the barrel and I am at the range and have the time. I play with another rifle or 22 while waiting for barrels to cool off anyway. I split the difference between "over-the-top" break in and none at all. I clean after the first round (lots of copper). I only use patches, and Boretech Cu+2 not brushes. Then I'll shoot 3-5 clean a little. Then maybe shoot 5-10 and clean. I use the time/rounds to zero the scope get velocity too. I may be a sucker, but I immediately start load development. If nothing else, I will find a bullet and a seating depth the barrels likes. When it speeds up, those 2 things should not change.
  3. I think the quickest way to start diagnosing would be to shoot it with nothing attached. Process of elimination. If it still shoots poorly, then go down the rabbit hole. Lots of reasons for an AR to have accuracy issues. Ammo/Bolt/Gas/Receiver Fit/Barrel Torque/Etc/Etc... Good luck!
  4. @verlaQuit spamming the forum. What are you trying to sell that you need to get your 100 post?
  5. @verla Listen to Hoser. He knows a lot about suppressors. Adding anything to the end of a barrel can change your poi and potentially your groups. Suppressors do, MagnetoSpeed chronos do it. Benchrest and Rimfire guys even do it on purpose with "tuners". Buy a Thunder Beast and be done...
  6. Bore Tech C4 for carbon. Bore Tech Cu+2 for copper. Bore Tech Eliminator has both. Also don't worry about removing copper, it will reappear fast enough. Any cleaning will remove some copper. After 3 rounds my barrels are back up to speed.
  7. Hoser had a match that was limited to 300y. Still lots of fun. Started prone with very small targets and worked up. First shot of the day was the smallest target for tie breaker. Then positional shooting and obstacles/barricade stuff.
  8. Sound like he knows his stuff inside and out, I would definitely trust him. You need to rule out your scope, rings and base. also need to pull the barreled action out and verify the stock fit and the action screw torque. Your barrel may have sped up. This happens usually within 50-150 rounds on a new barrel. Also factory barrels can be rough and you need to rule out copper or carbon. I would restart load development. Virgin vs once fired brass can make a little difference, combine that with the barrels speeding up and your load doesn't work anymore. Finally. No factory gun is sub 1/4 minute accurate. I don't mean to sound like a dick, but it just ain't a thing. Your smith builds $4k+ guns for benchrest that will hover around 1/3 moa. If you can honestly shoot a sub 2.5" group at 1000 yard with this gun you will be in world record company (1/4 moa). Let just say "it shot great and then it stopped shooting great". If it still has issues after you verified the ancillary stuff, send it in to Tikka. Good luck!
  9. What caliber? How many round are on the barrel? Have you cleaned it really well? Have you tried factory ammo again to see if it really is sub-moa? Not knowing the smith you went to, it's hard to agree or dispute his diagnosis. However, if your load stopped shooting well, it could be the ammo. The barrel could have sped up and the load is out of tune now. It could be you dies/brass after the first firing/sizing. They are too many variables. Sound more like the ammo to me. I would clean the piss out of it. I would then rule the scope/rings/base/stock screw torque out immediately. Next I would then try some factory ammo. If it still doesn't shoot, send it to Tikka. If it does shoot again, look at your reloading.
  10. You got me all figured out. The drama with PRS shooting is primarily people on the internet. Just show up at a match and people will give you the shirt off their back (or a bag or tripod) no questions asked. Whole lotta excuses right there. You should hop on over to typer's hide and join in the shitshow
  11. There is not one heavy-fill bag on that list. Most serious competitors are running at least one heavy bag. None of the most popular bags were even on that 2015 list. Gamechanger (or mini) Tactical Udder SAP Solo Bag Fortune Cookie (or mini) Posting a link to "What The Pros Use" is lazy. Most people asking for advice are not "Pros" nor do they need the latest-greatest pro gear. It doesn't help the average shooter get started. Starting precision shooters need sound simple advice and first hand experience. They don't need to spend lots of money, unless it's on powder and bullets.
  12. That is a very, very old article...
  13. Are we just plugging our buddies bag companies? I have 2 buddies that make great bags too.
  14. TMK struggle with AR magazine length, that's the primary difficulty. 77smk are great. 80gr VLD are better, but need to be single loaded.
  15. Hey JJ! Check out this one, not cheap and you need an additional adapter but fits your bill. It might be discontinued, because they are not on RRS website any more. Mile High has them in stock, you you could swing by there for one. https://www.milehighshooting.com/really-right-stuff-btca-b-t-clamp-adapter-w-soar-lever-release/ https://www.milehighshooting.com/really-right-stuff-sc-lr-soar-lever-release-clamp/ https://www.milehighshooting.com/really-right-stuff-btca-adapter-for-b-t-atlas-bipods-no-clamp/ I run the screw type w/o issues, but RRS redesigned the knob, maybe others are saying the same thing as you. http://soar.reallyrightstuff.com/BTC-Pro-Clamp-for-Atlas-Bipod I also have the MPA adapter and have played with the Area 419 ones. Both are "screw" type but with a better knob. Mine don't slip for me. You can also run a standard RRS QD lever plate. Sawtooth Rifles has some cool stuff, they help pioneer some of these gadgets too. http://www.sawtoothrifles.com/ Good luck brother!!!
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