daytona955i

The best thing we did to make LAMR/USC better for the PCC is to have the SO hang onto the chamber flag then help put it in when the shooter is done. Other than that, some stage elements are more difficult to manuever with the rifle, but otherwise it's all pretty much the same.

Ruger GP series respond well to polishing and shims. I put a slightly lighter trigger return spring in it, and with the hammer strut springs I have one on a separate strut that I go lighter on and only use Federal primers, and get a 6.5 to 7lb trigger. The other one that sets off CCI and everything else, including magnum primers, gets me an 8.25lb trigger. Still a little stagey, but it's smoothing out there too.

The Sara Spa Rod and Gun Club in Greenfield, NY (a few miles outside of Saratoga) is hosting a sanctioned IDPA match for the first time in ~15 years, and registration just opened this weekend. Battle of Saratoga - IDPA Tier 3 - 2018 11 stages (2 low light/no light), 180 round count, many guns and other items coming from sponsors, this is going to be a great match, and we're very excited. If you like pop ups, lean outs, clamshells, charging targets, steel, swingers, cascade, drop turns, and lots of options for shooting stages, this is a match for you.

I'm in NY, so this is great for me. However, the mag release is in a strange position. I understand why, especially with adaptable mag wells, the button needs to be in front of the magazine like in the handguns the mags are made for. In lieu of an aftermarket solution, I'm thinking if you put the mags on your strong side, you could pull your weak hand back for the release while you're getting the magazine, then hit the bolt with your strong hand. Push the gun out into position with your weak hand then grab the grip with your strong and get back to work. Kind of like a Miculek revolver reload. Need to pick one up and mess with it.

OEM recoil spring? I had some issues, even at 135pf, with heavier bullets. I put a lighter recoil spring in and the feeding issues went away.

Interesting. I wonder how much the fpb weighs... Do you have a stainless guide rod?

No worries. Thank you. I am going to the NER, also plan to do Live Free or Die. Just need to figure out what gun I'm going to shoot.

I was there on Saturday. I pulled the trigger and nothing happened, so I thought maybe I rode the slide release. I racked the slide after and a round popped out. No penalty. If I didn't rack the slide and pulled the trigger (and it went off) it's a PE.

Good! I need the incentive to go home and dry fire.

I won ESP division champion and finished second overall. This was a fun match, lots of blasting. They stuck shag carpet (without backing) on some targets, for an animal effect which worked out great, couldn't watch for bullet holes and couldn't see where everyone else has shot like on tshirts. Here's my match video.

You can use an optic in the Specialty division. Your scores now sit with everyone else's, but no awards unless it's an explicit match division.

If your strong hand thumb isn't bent, you probably don't have your weak hand high enough.

We run some great club matches and this was our first of the year. https://youtu.be/6AeBtulEQMc

You have to play with the tension between both screws. I usually tighten them up until they don't let the mag come out freely and then loosen the top screw a bit until they slide nicely.

Moderate wide angle at 77°.

Does anyone own or have experience with them? Specifically the newer SMART model? I've seen lots of shooters with the original models, but some reviews say that they can die pretty easily. However, Amazon reviews and YouTube comments aren't the most reliable. http://www.pivothead.com

GPS Tactical. Molle loops allow customization, guns are in individual bags, good straps, lots of pockets.

How much past? How do you measure it?

Not a dumb question at all. I've struggled with this since the new rule book. It's easy if there is a fault line on both sides. However, if there's a wall with a fault line on the left, and a vision barrier slightly down range on the right, how do you measure exposure on the right with no fault line? Is it any part of the target and body? Center line of target and upper body?

Way more often, although I've seen people not do it before going into the open on the move. I typically still do unless I plan to run dry, and the awkward standing reload and then resuming movement seems super slow.

Depends on how you grip the light.

I have a similar style Fusion magwell that fits in the box fine. Might require some fitting around the grip safety. Should fit. Like others said, weight is a bigger concern. 9mm 1911's have heavy barrels. A GI guide rod and spring plug will shave an ounce off the gun though. Magpul grips are super light too.

There's no guarantee that the place the sights return to is exactly where it left from and even if it was, waiting for the sights to come back is a waste of time. You call the shot on the break, then move on. You can't make a change once the bullet has left. In dry firing I can tell that I'm not really in the moment, I'm thinking ahead to the next step while I'm going through the cylinder. The patience pays off on paper, but I can do better on the timer. I've been working on my reloads, but killer dry fire reloads aren't working as well in live fire with a hot cylinder, even though I don't see any corners I'm cutting on video. More to work on.

Yes, that's clearly what I was doing, I said so in the original post.

I like Blade-Tech Revolutions, I get the Glock ones and tighten them up a bit, they fit lots of double stacks, but the 226/m9 ones fit M&P mags perfectly.