Sorpe

I saw that and got a laugh out of it. It's a modern world! As to fault lines ending, exactly how or where? Is there an imaginary line running parallel to the back berm that intersects with the end of the physical fault line and that defines the end of the line or the limit of the cover area? If so, what a judgment call it will be if someone is shooting from the end of the physical fault line marker. Of course there was already that judgment call when the lines were considered to extend to the stage boundaries so I guess nothing has changed except changing the nature of the judgment of whether someone is inside the appropriate boundary. As the French say, the more things change the more they stay the same.

Agree. And I think most everyone is wondering what the reasoning is behind many of the changes not least this one.

Rule 4.12.1.3 refers to cut away or painted targets. If you want a head shot, use a non-threat target upside down to block all but the head area. Or use it right-side up and eliminate all but a little of the -1 and -3 areas on the body. Of course, you're still somewhat limited by the rule allowing only one NT per every two threat targets.

I use the Max exactly as it ships. The magwell fits the box just fine. I've used it at the following IDPA sanctioned matches: Oklahoma state match, Wisconsin state, Illinois state, Michigan state, Night Hawk and will use it this Saturday at the Tri-County Challenge. No issues nor do I expect any.

I use the Max and it makes weight easily, coming in around 43.5 ounces. I've used it at numerous sanctioned matches and it fits the box and meets all the specs. As common as the 320s are for carry optics, nobody gives it a second glance.

I've had this happen a few times. I pound it out from left to right with a punch. Never caused damage and doesn't take much time. Does take a few hard whacks.

I use tape on the thumb. Problem solved or, rather, prevented.

No.

I replace mine every 10,000 rounds. By that point they are about two coils shorter than a new one. I use a 12 lb 1911 spring.

Mike Seeklander has lots of videos including on the draw.

Also a member. Well worth it. I don't know of anywhere else online where you can get that detailed level of analysis from shooters who are multiple-time champions and can explain and teach. Workingmanjeff touched on that there are video analyses done by Ben and/or Hwansik that break down their thinking and planning on stages shot in matches; Ben recently did one of nine stages he shot at the Oilfield Classic. Usually the videos include first person and third person perspectives in both slow motion and real time. Those videos are worth the price of admission alone. Where else do you get to go into the mind of a great shooter to hear and see how they planned and shot a match with analysis of what they actually did and what they wished they had done better. Some other videos I really like are where Ben or Hwansik is filmed shooting a drill. The film is unedited and consists of them thinking out lout, talking about what they're trying to accomplish in the drill, changes they make to address problems, etc. Good stuff. If you go to the PSTG website and/or Facebook page, there are links to trailers of some of the videos so you can get an idea what is there.

Got mine about a month ago and love it. I, too, would buy another if available. I know that you can't buy skill but you can buy a better 'fit' (and the potential improvement that comes with a gun that fits you better), and the Lim Pro fits me wonderfully.

I have shot two matches under the new rules and thoroughly enjoyed them. I'm with rowdyb that the fault lines and reload rules make up for any issues with the one second rule although I don't mind that one either. I've always been inclined more toward accuracy. In discussing the effect of the rule changes, you really can't extrapolate by applying the one point equals one second rule to matches shot under the old rules. People's approach to the match changes when they know that a point now costs them double. The mindset is different. As IronArcher said about playing around shooting the classifier, people get "careful" which leads to different results. I do believe, as it is what I've seen so far, that the top guys remain the top guys while the middle guys get sorted differently. As someone said (can't remember if it was here or some other forum), the bottom guys just remain as bewildered as ever.

I gave finger in front of the trigger guard a try of several months last year. I concluded it wasn't for me. I have twice taken classes from Vogel. As shown in the video posted above, he advocates getting as high on the gun as possible. In each class I took, he said that if having a finger in front of the trigger guard helps you get a higher grip, AND it works for you, then he would not say "Don't do it." He stopped short of recommending it, I think because of the difficulties in keeping pressure on the gun consistent, but he felt it has its place for some shooters. Obviously, different makes of gun have differing trigger reach lengths, weight, grip angles, grip thicknesses, trigger pulls, etc. Every one of us also has unique hands. You put our unique hands with the numerous types of pistol and you have a nearly endless variety of possible grips. Doesn't take much intelligence to figure out that one size does not, and indeed cannot, fit all. If it works for you, wonderful. I stopped doing finger in front of the trigger guard because I found myself caught in the trap of thinking that I could, with my grip, absolutely control recoil to the point of having virtually none. I suppose that can be done but, I have concluded, not by me. The harder I try to control recoil the more the gun behaves in unpredictable ways. Best advice on recoil management I've heard comes from Ron Avery (and probably others) who says, "Let recoil happen." If I stop trying to control recoil, the gun recoils in a predictable up/down manner. Then it's a matter of paying close enough attention so that as soon as the sights settle back down on the target I fire the next shot. If I don't pay close attention then the gun will tend to recoil up, then down, passing through and below the original sight picture until it rebounds. I don't want it to rebound (too slow) as I want to have already fired the shot. Getting that to happen takes lots more brain and vision power than grip power. And many times I fail. This is a fun topic. Lots to be said.

Your right elbow (assuming you're a righty) has to bend as part of the draw. When it does, the elbow goes back and points behind you. It's very easy to unknowingly create a bad habit where the right elbow, when it goes back, points somewhere other than directly behind you. If it points to your left, your natural draw from that point forward will be to the right. Vice versa if your elbow is pointing behind you but somewhat to the right. It's natural for the elbow to want to unbend on the same line that it bent; make sure it's bending perpendicular to your aiming point.

Been using mine on a G34 (gen 4) for about a month. No issues with shooting high.

I have now tried Pro Grip, Liquid Grip and Fast Grip. All work and what you like will be personal to you. I find Fast Grip to be between Pro Grip (most) and Liquid Grip (least) in tackiness. Pro Grip transfers the most white residue to clothes, gun, etc. Liquid Grip transfers a little but not bad. Fast Grip transfers virtually none. Pro Grip and Liquid Grip are both visible on your hands when in use (not sure if this matters to anyone) while Fast Grip is not although you do notice your hands look a bit paler than normal. All of this is from using these items in dry fire (indoors) and also in temps ranging from below freezing to about 60. Here in Illinois we haven't had warm enough weather yet to really test them out. Results may vary when it's hot and humid.

Last April I took a two-day class from Robert Vogel (that one was in Kansas but he's all over the midwest) that was very good and worthwhile. I liked it so much I'm returning this year and taking my four sons with me.

All of the above are good suggestions, of course. For me, it is mostly a mindset issue. I pride myself on being a bad weather shooter because I shoot in bad weather all the time. That's how I reset my mind to not be bothered by rain, snow, whatever. The other thing I discovered--by doing poorly at a match--is that you have to practice shooting targets covered with clear garbage bags. Especially ones that are blowing in the wind as they were at this match. Before that match, I'd shot in the rain lots of times but never bothered to cover my targets because I knew I wouldn't be out there so long that I had to worry about it. But with a match that runs all day, the targets will be covered and the bags will sometimes be flapping in the wind, partly on and partly off, etc. As an example, on one stage, I shot six shots on a target. All six shots fit within about a three inch area. Unfortunately, three of the shots were on the 'wrong' side of the line because the garbage bag (and the rain coming down) obscured my ability to get my shots centered properly. So, pretty decent shooting but a poor score because I simply hadn't any experience with shooting covered targets. I practice that now. Also, shooting for a half hour of practice in the rain is not the same as spending all day in it. Even with the best of preparations, you are going to get wet. You are going to be muddy. You will likely not be overly happy. That's where mindset comes in. TroyB is right. Embrace it!

It was Outliers--a very good book. Another interesting book is Why Michael [Jordan] Couldn't Hit referring to Michael Jordan not being able to transition from pro basketball to pro baseball. It's been a long time since I read the book but my memory is the author was suggesting that there are certain times, typically in our formative years, when we have to be doing the activity we want to be world-class in (shooting, playing the violin, whatever) in order to lay down the neural pathways required to reach the elite of the elite. But that doesn't mean you can't be excellent, just not the best of the best. For example, to be a true violin virtuoso, a person needs to start learning the violin at an early age like five. But excellence can be achieved any time at any age provided you put in the hours, etc. I started shooting at age 54 and shot my first competition on my 55th birthday. In the nearly one year since then, I have made great improvements despite (or because of ) my age. I do love it when I outshoot the 20 year olds at competitions! For me, it's not a question of are you born with an elite ability or is it something you can learn; for me it's about that inner feeling that I can get better that drives me forward. Where I end up hardly matters. As Cervantes said, "The journey is better than the inn." Edited to increase font size.

I think the important point is that the problem comes when shooting fast. To me, this means a timing issue. Most shooters 'shove' the gun when they shoot. Great shooters shove it a few hundredths or thousandths of a second AFTER they pull the trigger (the shove is to help with recoil control and getting the sights back on target ASAP). Not-so-great shooters shove the gun a few hundredths or thousandths of a second BEFORE pulling the trigger. Result for the not-so-great shooters: low or low left for the righties, low right for the lefties. Once I realized this was a timing issue, I improved and the problem largely disappeared. Of course I still shove the gun too soon on some shots. And as I try to shoot faster, I have to adjust my timing. The same is true with different guns and different loads: each has its own timing requirements to shoot fast and accurately. This is no different from a basketball player having to time the release of his jump shot or a batter the timing of his swing or, well, you get the idea. For me, this realization was an eye opener and a relief as I had struggled and struggled with every conceivable grip, trigger finger placement, etc. Helps explain why there is such disparity of thought on the proper grip and the proper trigger finger placement. If your timing is correct, and your grip and trigger finger placement correct within broad parameters, then you're probably good. Timing is one issue that can't be improved as much with dry fire. You have to shoot the specific gun and specific loads to really learn timing. The suggested timing and Bill drills are great for this. Matt Burkett has a nice timing drill that has helped me. However, I have done a dry fire drill where I specifically and consciously shove the gun with my hands (making the muzzle lower a little) after the dry fire 'shot' is taken. So I pull the trigger and then immediately shove the gun. Obviously this is an exaggeration, and the timing isn't right, but my goal is to teach my mind and body that the shove comes after the shot is fired. The best way, of course, is live fire. Next best is to do something with dry fire that hammers the point home to the subconscious.