razorfish

Hmm... Thanks but no thanks... Here's a quote from their website: "We’ve found that on occasion the ceramic beads will get themselves stuck into a shell casing during the polishing and tumbling process. You’ll notice this during the Completion Step (#10). To remedy the issue, we suggest a small probe or other pointed tool (screwdriver) to easily pick out the beads with just a little pressure. Always inspect the casing to make certain it is clean." Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I toss my loaded rounds into a plastic colander and pick the up six or eight at time to drop into the Hundo (Shockbottle) gauge. Eventually you learn how to grab the ammo with a light enough touch that all 6 or 8 of them land bullet down ready to be dropped into the Hundo. I box my ammo (Production Division so rows of 10 make thinks quicker between stages). The Hundo is excellent for anyone boxing their ammo. I also mark my cases... I can mark 100 rounds of ammo in less than 10 seconds when they're in the Hundo... An added perk of marking your ammo in the Hundo gauge is that when you pull the Sharpie (Permanent Marker) across the back of the rounds, you'll spot any high (or low) primers. Here's a video of how I use the Hundo (note that I wasn't going for speed in the video and "in real life" I'm able to go much faster):

Whatever your choice, leave some room in your budget for a press and reloading components. Personally I would choose the CZ, a Dillon XL650 and reloading components. After cutting your teeth in production for a season you'll know which division you'll want to shoot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I set my Shockbottle (Hundo) on the lid of the ammo box I use to "flip"/invert the rounds. It's already on the table and it lets the ammo drop all the way into the gauge. I also like hearing them "plunk" into the gauge. The same technique as in this video:

You size the case before you trim. So one head would be used to de-cap and size the brass, then off to the Giraud to trim. The second head would be for loading (and swaging). I would imagine an RT-1500 trimmer would be added to the .223 trim head if convenience would be an issue. The Giraud would then be reserved for precision rifle trimming duty.

For small pistol/rifle primers just break off the ends of a Q-tip and you'll have two cleaning patches. Use the primer follower rod to push the Q-tips through the tubes. Primer tubes are aluminum... Steel will scratch them, brass will scratch them. Be careful with cleaning brushes or pipe cleaners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Push a patch/Q-tip down your "clean" primer magazine... The yellowish residue that sticks to your patch/Q-tip is primer compound. Some people claim that this residue is a partial cause of chain fires but I've found that clean primer magazine keeps things running smoothly. I clean my primer magazine and pickup tubes about once a year or every 20K rounds loaded. I load about 80% CCI primers with the rest being Winchester or Tula. I'm amazed how much primer compound builds up in my primer magazine.

I've decided to give a 90 degree mount a try on my open pistol but which one should I get? Basically I have an standard STI Trubor in 9mm with a Brazos slide. Barrel has two popple holes. Should I go with the standard or offset mount? Assuming the blast from my popple holes are the reason for going with the offset mount, are there any disadvantages to the offset beyond the slide racker? My first inclination is to just use the Cheely mount but are there any other brands/models I should be looking at? I'm hoping to not make this a discussion about 90 degree vs. normal mounting as this has been well discussed in the past. Again, I'm new to open and just want to experiment with the 90 degree configuration.

That's what I do... Break the end off of a Q-Tip, dip it in alcohol and use the primer follower rod as a cleaning push rod. Those fuzzy sticks likely have a steel wire core that could scratch the aluminum tube. Don't forget to clean the primer magazine tube either.

I'm assuming you mean you've got a batch of Lake City brass that was fired from a machine gun. Assuming this and also assuming you have a bunch of them, I would take a few measurements and have a machine shop make you a set of oversize pins. While your at it, make a whole batch of them, stamp them 3m and sell them off to recoup your expenses. If it's just a few of these cases either suffer through the batch of cases or toss them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The most common cause of upside down cases is that your case feeder has excessive movement. There are many ways to add extra support. In my situation I ran a screw from the base of my case feeder into an existing shelf. Rock solid now. I haven't had a flipped case in years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Technically it's called the "small powder bar spacer". (The chunk of aluminum that sits on top of the small powder bar.) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had this exact issue with one of my powder measures while running WST. Dillon sent me an oversize spacer that completely stopped the powder from "leaking" out of the powder measure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's only a matter of time before you'll see a CZ SP01 Shadow under 33 ounces. Look at the P01's alloy frame. I am sure Angus has already sent a few emails to CZ to get them ready to send over the first batch of alloy framed SP01 Shadows. No more Welfare Optics... The new 32.7 ounce alloy framed custom AccuShadows are going to cost about US$2,000. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This seems like a classic case of "Killing two birds with one Stone". Basically the BOD was able to satisfy S&W and Glock by adding a 33oz weight limit and the members by adding a "production-ish" optic division. My problem with it is the name sucks... I would stick with name suggested by the membership (Production Optic). As far as the weight limit goes, if your gun weighs in at less than 33oz you get scored using MAJOR scoring. If your gun weighs in at 33 ounces or more you're scored using Minor scoring. Yes I shoot a CZ and there's no way a heavy gun has enough advantage to overcome a plastic gun being scored at major power factor, but at least we would get rid of the crappy name. Carry Optics... good grief!

Personally I would wait to add the bullet feeder. In fact, I would run a powder check die for the first 20,000 or more rounds. When you're comfortable enough with the press to realize you don't need the powder check, add the bullet feeder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thinking this is typo... Do you mean 10mm and 40 S&W? 9mm and 40 S&W caliber conversions share no common parts unless you consider the case feed plate and even then, I've had better luck using the small pistol casefeeder plate for 9mm and the large pistol casefeeder plate for 40 S&W.

Any mild acid will clean brass. Lemishine and lemon juice both are basically citric acid. Vinegar is also acidic. The main thing is to mix your solution as a "mildly" acid solution. More is definitely not better in this case. Limit the brass's exposure to the solution and always rinse thoroughly to stop the acidic reaction. (Technically we should never expose our cases to acid but we all seem to like shiny brass. Never over do it though.) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shot.... First thing is to throw away the swage thing you got on on eBay. Unfortunately you're going to have to swage by hand. You're using your 650 to prep brass. First choice to make is whether or not to use a sizing die in the first station or just a decapping die. You could easily just decap the cases and then go straight to the trimmer (the trim die is also a sizing die). Some people do a partial resize/decap in Station one and then finish the sizing using the trim die. The important thing here is that the trim die needs some tension on the case so leave enough resizing duty for your trim die to grip the case. Your next decision is if you want to expand the case mouth a bit after resizing. You might want to use something like a Lyman M die after trimming to open up the case mouth and/or knock off any burrs inside the case mouth. After cleaning up your brass its on to your 450 for loading. Most will use a decap die in station one to make sure the flash hole is clear but other than that, load as normal (NO sizing die on the 450) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Generally when CZ shooters ream their barrel it's so they can load longer. This has nothing to do with the chamber (i.e. you aren't reaming the chamber). Ensure your bullets are correct for 9mm. (.355 for jacketed or .356 for plated/coated) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^ Good Advice. Can your CZ cycle factory ammo? If so, it's not the gun, it's your reloaded ammo (and not the brass). The most frightening statement you said was, "I used a ridiculous amount of crimp just to see if it helped". A. Start with a round nose profile bullet and set the OAL to 1.1 or less B. Go back to the EGW U-Die and screw it down as low as possible. (If you're loading on a Dillon, turn it down so it touches the shell plate and then don't back it off). C. Eliminate the Lee FCD for now and use a standard crimp ONLY die after you seat your bullet. D. Crimp only enough to remove any flare you added to aid in seating the bullet. As a matter of fact, think of the crimp die as the "flare removal" die. This is your starting point. Unless the chamber is cut wrong (or dirty), it's not the brass.

So I'm guessing you're about to begin offering modified decap pins. When will they be available? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check your spam/junk mail filter for an email from cajunactionshooters@gmail.com . Hopefully it will say "Thank you for registering for the 2015 Louisiana Gator Classic! We look forward to seeing you at the match!". If you still don't have an email you might have entered your email address incorrectly. You could contact Stephanie Martin (smartin922@gmail.com or cajunactionshooters@gmail.com) and have her check your entry for a correct email address. (or PM her L10tootielynn... she's the one that started this thread)

Looks like you spelled "relief" correctly but it's a swing and a miss on "confirmation". Congratulations Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've always heard to avoid any product with "wax" in it as it builds up on your dies. Nupolish is popular in dry tumbling because it contains no wax. I suppose it could just be an old wives tale that wax is an issue. Has anyone had any "real" issues with wax based products on brass?