leewongfei

Yes you can. I believe Dillon needs to be contacted anyway. if memory serves me correctly, Dillon will send you a new power switch and a bar/tube may need to be shortened.

Dont polish anything, I actually completely disagree with Steve on this. Please follow the link for an official response from Dillon about this same exact issue. I did this, and i have never had any powder spillage happen since. You may need to copy and paste the link, i dont seem to have the ability to paste a link. "It sounds like the powder flakes are sliding between the powder bar and spacer. Put a piece of tape on top of the spacer bar to shim it down a few thousandths." http://www.dillonprecision.com/Leaking_Powder_Measure-98-11-1069.htm

I wouldnt take it. You can get another 550 for under $400 without the caliber conversion. I tried and almost bought a SDB, but i couldnt stand the position of the handle. I could never find a comfortable position to reload while using it.

The powder funnels pictured are for rifle. The outer diameter really doesn't matter. For rifle, its all about the inside. Pistol powder funnels have to be smooth both inside and out.

Fine walnut (lizard bedding) does a better job of cleaning for me, although i have noticed that i have to run more brass with a walnut run that i would need to with corn to get the brass clean. Brass cleaned with walnut will never get as shiny as brass cleaned with corn. People tend to associate shiny and clean as the same thing, but cleany is clean and shiny means polished.

Maybe the brass your using is different.

Why dont you call Dillon directly? The no BS lifetime guarantee means that they will take the time to talk (or walk) you through everything.

The little hole you are seeing is from using the wrong side of the actual seater inside the die. Pull the clip off the top of the die, remove the insert, remove the black piece of metal that holds the actual seater in please, then flip the hardened steel seater. It sounds complicated, but its really easy. One side of the seater is for flat point, the other side is for round nose.

i use 20.8 gr at 2.23 with a 55gr fmjbt. Its my favorite load.

I had placed an order for dillon 223 dies on friday. When i placed the order, they had a ton for sale on their website. I get a call today advising me that they actually didnt have them in stock and that they would be placing me on the back order list. I emailed them a while later and asked where i was on the list, and was advised that i was halfway down the list. Is it normal for these people to mess up?

I doubt its the fiocchi primers. I have never had an issues with them. it may be your spring to trigger connector. I would remove each aftermarket part and install different combinations of parts to see if it is the ghost connector or something else.

I agree with Sarge. I take it a step further though. I put on some latex gloves or put my hands in a couple sandwich bags, put my hands in the media while its tumbling, and rub my hands together to break up the was clumps. That way, i can be sure that no clumps will get stuck in a case. There is also some brass that clean manually. I think the headstamp is CBC (im at work). The CBC stuff has some kind of adhesive, or some kind of residue right where the projectile was seated, that would cause the corn or walnut to stick to the side of the case wall. I used to blame it on the wax not getting broken down enough, but then i realized what it really was and started scrubbing the inside of the case with a small round wire brush. If the brass wasnt as good as it was, i would have just tossed it.

You thread title has nothing to do with your post..

I would read the post on the linked thread by tazmo65. Brian Enos has this linked on his FAQ page. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=10092&view=findpost&p=149349

I had a slight issue with small primers as well. The primer bar didn't lock in to the unit very easily. it was a real easy fix. all I did was sand down the plastic end of the small primer bar and that fixed the issue. I love the thing and I couldn't picture myself doing it the hard way anymore.

If you ordered it from Brian Enos, i would send him an email to find out. Otherwise, you could call dillon directly (good luck with option 2).

I have a 550 that i received a few weeks ago. I have loaded high and low density powders, the only powder that doesnt cycle with is unique (at least for me). Out of the 4 powders that i use, unique is the only one that i check every 10-20 loads to make sure that it is still dropping correctly.I also only load 1 caliber. With that in mind, i am not disappointed with my purchase at all. I can average about 500 rounds an hour easy. I can probably do more than that as well, but i am not in a hurry. Check out the youtube link to see how fast this gakido guy is. Its insane.

The Berrys projectiles are the double struck 115gr.

First, good morning, i hope everyone is well! I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Berrys Plated for reloading? I made 100 rounds of 9MM using 5.6 gr of unique. My projectile was 115gr berrys plated. Well last night, i was reading another reloading book and it stated that for plated bullets, use hard lead data, or load to half of a FMJ load or 20% less than max. Is 5.6gr of unique to much for that projectile? What would you all consider a decent load for 115gr plated round nose? Thanks in advance, and pardon my ignorance. With all the varying data, i just want to be sure that i have an accurate round without the chance of getting a kaboom. I did search, but there seems to be a ton of different information and none of it is about unique powder.

I found the link to the Dillon forum that advised on the tape trick. I have no idea if this site will let me post a link so just copy and paste it if it doesnt work. http://www.dillonprecision.com/Leaking_Powder_Measure-98-11-1069.htm

I put it on the top part of the powder bar. It sits in between both parts. Since the width of the powder bar is the same width of the tape, it was easy to get it to match up. Once that was done, i took a razor and cut out the holes on the bar.

How are tula primers compared to other brands on stock pistols? I ordered 10k of them prior to researching them.

Thank you for the reply, i appreciate it. A fix i ended up finding on the dillon website was to take a piece of scotch tape and use it to shim the powder bar. You are absolutely correct on the size. The tape helped bring it to speck and i have not had a sprinkle like that since.

My powder measure is leaking from in between both parts of the powder bar. I am sorry for being ignorant, i also did search, but wasnt able to find an answer. It doesnt seem like a ton of powder initially, but it keeps spilling with each pull. it doesnt stop, it only gets worse. I had to place a small bin under the press to catch it so it wouldnt be wasted. Does anyone have any idea how i can fix this issue? I have included a picture to show you. The powder i am using is winchester 231

I ordered on march 7, and the order was complete on 05/08. Almost 9 weeks in total.