leewongfei

I went from a 17 to a 12. I guess i still have work to do.

I just had a repeat lead test. Lets see if i went below a 17. Ill post here once i find out for sure.

The shading is there because he typed it into word then pasted it here. To the OP, great write up man, its very much appreciated.

Its an Xtreme 124gr rn. The crimp is perfect. I may be over charging the using 4.5gr on powder. I just ordered a case of bayou bullets 9mm 124 gr RN, i hope to have better luck with those. How are you verifying that your crimp is perfect? 4.5g is probably exceeding the book pressures for that load. What OAL are you using? Are you chronographing these loads and looking at the primers afterwards? Sorry for the late response, we had a pretty nasty storm here in the north east. To verify my crimp, i pulled at least 20 rounds to check the bullet for any visible signs on a heavy crimp. I have a very, and i mean extremely faint line going around the bullet. To see it, i have to shine a light on it. Honestly, the line is more faint than the factory machining marks left on the plating. I load all my 9mm to 1.125-1.129 OAL for all my 9mm. I ran a chrono when setting up the load. Initially i used Montana gold projectiles at the time, so i am pretty sure the grouping issue is due to the amount of powder. My chrono has since been destroyed. Ill probably pick up another at the next gun show in my area. I hate buying online and getting over charged for a chrono.

Its an Xtreme 124gr rn. The crimp is perfect. I may be over charging the using 4.5gr on powder. I just ordered a case of bayou bullets 9mm 124 gr RN, i hope to have better luck with those.

I have not been reloading as long as other folks on this forum, but I ran into an interesting issue i am looking to get resolved. I have been loading 4.5gr of w231/HP38 with a 124gr plated 9mm projectile and an OAL of 1.125. At 25 feet, its pretty damn accurate. Anything outside of that it opens right up. I load 4.7gr of Unique with the exact projectile and AOL and its a solid load well beyond 50ft.I shoot them out of a CZ SP01. My question is, is W231/HP38 accurate for longer distance shooting? Could the charge be a bit much? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -Lee

Thank you all for your answers. I am still on the fence about what brand to purchase, but I am leaning towards the bayou bullets. If memory serves me correctly, my cz sp01 ate the 124 gr right up.

Besides the marginal difference in cost, what do you all prefer for 9mm 124gr RN? Do you find one more accurate than the other?

When i got my 650, the bolts on the powder measure where so tight, that the powder measure didnt not want to cycle. Specifically, the bolts that hold the hardware for the fail safe system. Having a 550 set up, i was able to spot the problem pretty fast. I loosened them up a very small pinch, just enough to remove the he-man tightening it received at the factory, and its been fine since. You do not need a HE-MAN grip to tighten the powder measure.

Stop pointing your gun at me! I'm just kidding. Generally, leading like that can be caused bye a few different things. The powder is burning way to hot/ or too much powder, the casting of the projectiles is to weak, or your formula is all messed up. Is this the only gun with that kind of fouling? Do you have to much of a roll crimp? Have you tried to modify your load data? Are you only using lead load data instead of jacketed?

You probably need to tighten your taper crimp a pinch more. If its getting hung that low, thats what it generally is. Keep in mind that each case manufacturer is slightly different from one another. Your setting may be fine for 99% of the cases out there, but that 1% may be shorter and therefor not getting all of the bell removed.

Aha, okay so I will put in a call to dillon and ask for the springs then, don't want to break off that plastic pin No, do not ever break that pin. Powder is to scarce to have it spill all over the ground.

Thats awesome! How does it work so far? Does it leave a burr?

I was at a 17 last month. I have since changed a ton of my habits. I wear gloves now when picking up range brass, I change my cloths the moment I get home from the range, I wear the same shoes each time I go to the range and take them off once I get home, I bought a big just of d-lead finishing touch and coat paper towels with it to use them as wipes, and in general, I am just really careful with the way I handle everything. I'm getting tested again in a month. If people are looking for a way to ask your doctor to test your lead levels without admitting that you are a firearm user, tell them that you do a ton of stained glass and that the solder used has a high concentration of lead.

Nope, I have had it a year and have not had a single issue. I may be wrong but I think the scale is covered for a lifetime with the warranty.

You make a few dummy rounds and rack them through your gun to see if they feed. Additionally, you should have a set of calipers near by to validate the formulas you are using for your specific bullets. (recipes are for cookies, formulas are for ammo)

I agree with Steve, the barrel of the firearm is the best way to check. The dillon gauges are my favorite though, the lyman gauge i had kept trying to rust on me.

I used the primer retaining spring from my primer pick up tube. I had a few of them from the spare parts kit. Its been a year and i have not had the issue since.

It probably is bent/ not on straight. Those things can be a pain in the @$$ to get on correctly. I ended up reseating both of my primer cups and the problem went away. You could use the press to do it, but i found that my nylon bench vise had an opening just big enough to fit the cup, so i put it in the vise and tightened it up that way.

I found that polishing the crap out of the inside of my Dillon powder measure cleared up any issues i had with the flake powder feeding correctly. Another thing i always do is give the ram an extra tap on the downstroke to make sure all the powder drops. This is a habit i got into loading extruded powder for my 223 loads.

Where did u buy the lanolin? The local organic food store had some. Its the only thing ill buy from them.

At the same flea market from the same guy . He charged me $7 for both.

This made me LOL a bit. I taught a buddy of mine the basics of reloading on a single stage. He was thinking there was something wrong with his press because of how hard it was to resize brass on a carbide die. I pulled out some 99% alcohol/liquid lanolin mixture i made up, sprayed his brass, and had him try again. My buddy couldn't believe the difference it made. Lubing any piece of brass will extend the life of your dies, machine, and it will keep your arm from getting fatigued.

I have an issue with my 650. Its not getting the use that my 550b was getting. This thing just turns out way to much ammo! I get to the point that I make ammo on it even when I dont need to jut to make sure it gets the use it deserves! As much as this thread was meant to be silly, I wanted to take an honest moment and thank Brian Enos for always answering any of the questions I have ever asked him. I also wanted to thank Dillon for making such an amazing piece of hardware. I found an old 550 set up VHS cassette at a flea market, and at the beginning of it, Mike Dillon stated "Every shooter dreams of having more ammo than you can shoot, and your new Dillon progressive will help you realize that dream.". Well, I am happy to say that Brian Enos and the folks at Dillon really have helped me live up to that dream. Thanks again for everything, I really do appreciate it!

My 650 has the power switch on the base of the unit, and the actual case cherry switch in the tube. The pictures your looking at may just be a little older. Dillon occasionally changes the design on some of their electronics. I have a 550b and a XL650. The low primer alarm has a different sound between them, and the older one uses screws to secure it while the new one pinches itself in place. Honestly though, it doesnt matter because its dillon and they stand behind their products