Agney5

Guys I am having a hard time believing it is a crimp issue since the brass is not what is getting hung up. If you look at the photo I provided it is the bullet that is hanging up. Now why it will not quit hanging up until I shorten my OAL all the way down to 1.110 is my concern. As forgiving a profile as that bullet is I don't know of many other options here.

So I seem to be having some issues loading for my XDM, I have had issues with rounds sticking in the chamber and being tough to eject and had come to the conclusion it was Glock bulge. So I finally bought a G-Rx die, but to no avail I still had problems with the round hanging up. So after trying everything I could think of ie: more crimp, the G-Rx, shortening OAL I still hadn't had any luck. So I decided to go overboard and figure this out It took me seating the all the way down to 1.110 before I quit having my issues. So I took my already loaded rounds forced them into the chamber and took pliers and spun the round several times which showed a very thin amount of coating being taken off. Now my biggest concern is what options do I have here, the bullet profile is as about as forgiving as it gets to allow me to load longer so what do I do now, what am I missing here. These rounds do work in an M&P, PX40 and a Ruger SR 40 with no issues. Here is my load data and picture of regular Major load and to the right the same load but the round I put in the chamber and spun. It is hard to see but there are marks where some of the molly was removed. And yes both my major and minor loads have the same issue. So help me out here guys and gals I'm sure it is something stupid but I am just not getting it. Load Data Major Load Mixed Brass Mostly Federal CCI SPP 4.6 Gr WST OAL 1.150 Crimp .416 Bullet BBI 180 FP Minor Load Mixed Brass Mostly Federal CCI SPP 3.0 Clays OAL 1.132 Crimp .416 Bullet BBI 180 FP http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg562/Agney5/IMG_1414.jpg

I think you will find that the big three for XD smiths will tell you 2.5 is as low as they feel comfortable going. That is Springer, Powder River and Canyon Creek Custom. I'm am sure there are a few other smiths out there who may try and tell you it can be done but the three I just listed really have the most experience with the gun and I think all of them will tell you the same. Having said that I would trust any of them with my XD all of them do awesome work. Hope that helps. Edit: Sorry disregard my post I misread your post.

As much as I would like to believe it isn't a problem anymore, using Dillon Dies does not get the job done for my XDM. So yes it may be better but it is definitely still a problem, at least for me out of a standard XDM.

Thank you very much!

Does anyone have a list or anyone actively shooting in this area that can tell me match dates (ie what Saturday or Sunday of the month) and clubs. Some clubs on the list apparently aren't having matches anymore or don't have websites so the whole thing is pretty frustrating (add this to a reason I hate moving). I have used the search on the USPSA web site but needless to say the information isn't the greatest on there, plus apparently I don't know which Sunday of the month it is since I drove an Hour and Half to a match that wasn't going on (this really was my fault). So any help would be much appreciated, I was definitely spoiled in the St. Louis area.

I think he is implying you are lucky, if you go over to xd talk you will see more than your fair share of hoar stories on this subject. Many more than success stories. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

Freezing the slide seems counterintuitive since that would cause the slide to shrink. Either way XD sights are extremely tough to remove without the tool. That's not to say they can't be taken out without one but most that do end up with a pretty beat up slide. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

+1 Best stock trigger on any striker fired pistol I've evershot. I don't have one but if I shot production I would probably shoot it. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

I'll join in, I shot a lot last year but this year time has not been on my side, (weddings, moving, work, school). Just did get my membership in March so still not classified. Now that things are settling down I have no reason not to get with it. A-80562 Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

Hornady's XTPs are some pretty quality hollow points. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

Plastic mostly, but on occasion I'll shoot my cc gun (just to stay proficient) which is steel. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

With an empty mag there is a very little chance of the slide coming forward do to the follower pushing on the slide stop. With a loaded mag the follower is not pushing on the stop, and if you have used the stop on a regular bases you probably have rounded the sharp edges off the catch and slide making it easier for the slide to fall. Also you will notice that there is a little play in the slide to frame fit allowing the slide to move upward essentially disengaging the slide stop when a loaded mag is inserted. I have noticed that with lighter recoil springs the more likely for the slide to fall while slamming a mag home, for obvious reasons. On my 45 and 40 I have modified the catch to where it will drop with more consistency when I reload. Sent from my DROID RAZR

The big deal is that a game changes rules to make the game more fun, safer, or clarify current rules. There are some rules that are an improvement, but there are some pretty significant steps backwards. Rules that are actually hurting the sport, and seem to be doing so entirely out of spite of other shooting sports. Sent from my DROID RAZR

Sooo let me get this straight, if you have trigger work done on your gun you don't know how to shoot it????? I'm an XD guy, and own several of them, and every one of them get trigger work done before they even go to the ranger. I have enough and know enough about the gun to know I hate the stock trigger, and that goes for all of the major plastic guns. Congrats on making master by the way. Sent from my DROID RAZR

That is the exact reason why I shot L10. I had the typical attitude of real men shoot 45, so after I got past my ego block and started shooting I quickly realized there is only really one place for my plastic 45 gun to play. Was I hiding out there, no does it happen yes. I often found myself comparing my scores to limited guys just to get a feel for how I was doing. It works out to be a good division for those of us who are new and shoot 45 plastic guns. Sent from my DROID RAZR

Agreed. I normally cannot load any longer than 1.135 in my G22 but the 180 BBI's and my LW barrel i can load longer than the magazine will allow. I am shooting these at 1.150 and they just barely fit without hanging up in the magazine. I ran several hundred of them yesterday just to make sure there would not be problems. The more i shoot them the better i like them. When i get home today i plan on trying 3 grains of Clays behind some of these as i found 6 pounds of it today at my LGS. I want to compare Clays, e3 and WST to find out which minor load i like best. I haven't tried e3, but Clays and WST are both very nice behind the 180 BBIs (loaded to 1.140 thru a G24). I would give the Clays a slight nod in recoil impulse feel (for me), but I think the WST is a little safer for major PF in the 1.130 - 1.160 OAL range. Sorry to thread jack but what did it take to reach major with wst. Also what do you have your crimp at, I've been getting some inconsistent crono readings I think might be related to crimp issues. Sent from my DROID RAZR

Agreed. I normally cannot load any longer than 1.135 in my G22 but the 180 BBI's and my LW barrel i can load longer than the magazine will allow. I am shooting these at 1.150 and they just barely fit without hanging up in the magazine. I ran several hundred of them yesterday just to make sure there would not be problems. The more i shoot them the better i like them. When i get home today i plan on trying 3 grains of Clays behind some of these as i found 6 pounds of it today at my LGS. I want to compare Clays, e3 and WST to find out which minor load i like best. 3 gr of clays is a sweet minor load, but out of a 4.5" barrel I'm actually around 142 PF. I have downloaded even further but just don't feel the need to go lower they shoot flat enough for me. Sent from my DROID RAZR

I have been using them since I started shooting/reloading. One of the shooters he sponsors told me to give them a try and I must say I've never been disappointed. I've tried some other coated bullets and the profiles offered by bbi lets those of us who shoot plastic guns load a bit longer. Sent from my DROID RAZR

I did but not hardly at all, I'm not sure I even needed to to be honest. Sent from my DROID RAZR

Canyon creek has them on their site. ^^^ Sent from my DROID RAZR

You are spot on with your assumption. The only problem I've really has with any of my XD's is ammo related (reload development issues) and a weak striker spring (about 20000 shots combined dry fire and live fire). Really that is nothing more than routine maintenance in my eyes. I think you will be more than happy with your decision. Sent from my DROID RAZR

You have to get the grams follower and spring. The Dawson pad does not come with the follower, just a longer spring. Sent from my DROID RAZR

Just another thought you could do the same design that I mentioned, but instead of planing the top, a piece of 1/2" birch plywood wood be great. It's relatively cheep and looks good. If a section begins to look bad unscrew and flip it. I know it's not ideal but is cheap and would be easy to replace the top if something happened to it. Plus your still getting that durability. Sent from my DROID RAZR

Just a thought, for rugged but still plenty strong top. Make your own "chopping block" all you need is some ready rod, some 2x4's, fairly long wood screws, and wood glue. Layer the 2x4's as wide as you want glue in between the boards and use long wood screws just two at about 8" from the end to hold them together. Keep layering as thick as you want repeating the process. Then take a long auger bit and go through width of whole table top then run ready rod through and draw everything up tight. I used three, one on each end (6" from end) and one in middle. The thing to remember through the whole process is to keep all screws and ready rod on the bottom 2/3's of the top of the bench. Now the hardest part is finding someone with a planer to plane the whole thing for you to give it that nice flat smooth top. All in all it's cheap to do, strong as all get out, and looks nice. The down side is it's a bit labor intensive and logistics might not be easy for you. Just something to think about. Sent from my DROID RAZR