Smokecloud

Still looking at triggers for my new 3gun build. I think I have decided to go with a JP original, but wanted to know what you guys think. What are the pro's and cons of the original vs the EZ, I will be installing it myself and know my way around these rifles pretty well. I will be going with the full JP system either way. I don't have any experience with the JP triggers though, other than shooting a friends once. I handled a Giessele 3g trigger a couple of days ago and thought it was nice, but it wasnt quite as crisp as the JP I tried.

Welcome to the 50 world. I run a nightforce 5.5-22x56 with the NPR2 reticle on mine. My base is around 40-42Moa for slant, so with my knob dialed all the way down, I am zeroed at 100 yards on the top mark on my reticle, this is about 3 clicks from the absolute edge of my scope adjustment. I am almost on at 1000 at the center of the crosshairs and about 1800 on the bottom of the reticle without ever touching the dial, if I keep it on 5.5 power. I actually do lot of my shooting on the lower power, mostly at plates painted white, but the scope is so clear, I dont feel that im lacking and usually heat is a major issue in the summer. I rarely use above 12 power unless its very cool, then I will run in the 15-18 range. Get set up for reloading as ammo for the 50 isnt as cheap as it used to be. Lee is fine.

I am currently rebuilding my AR more specific to 3g. Last year at the Ironman, I shot all 55gr. Then at the Montana 3g match, i shot mostly 55gr, until a friend gave me some of his 75gr for the double spinner at 100 yds. made a huge difference. Im rebarreling to an 18" Criterion with a 1-8 twist, so i can shoot the 75's more consistantly than my 1-9. I dont have problems with 55's on most anything but that double spinner, so I usually have some 69's or will now have 75's just for them.

62 is great! anything over 30 is good. I remember the feeling I had after completing my first build, it was very cool, almost as if I had been freed from some sort of great fear. The only bad part is that you will always be wanting to tinker with it, try this handguard, or that gas block, swap out this for that and eventually you get a box-o-parts that you could build an entire AR out of, but dont because its not what you want, but all the extra parts are somehow comforting to have, just in case. Its also great trade stock for when you start helping friends put theirs together. I have never charged friends to build a gun, but usually they end up upgrading a part somwhere along the line and they throw the old one in my box of parts like its a penny jar. Most of the time during the build, they also need something out of that box to complete their guns, so it all comes out in the wash.

im very familiar with the DI systems, if they were kicking them out at 1 oclock, you would more likely than not, be overgassed and the brass would be bouncing off the deflector hard enough to make them go forward, but im not sure if the piston versions have the same response. multiple fixes for DI guns, turn the gas down, run colder ammo, run a heavier buffer, etc, but again, not sure what the pistons do in the same situation.

Lots of good advice here, the only thing I would add, is at least a "no-go" guage, i have all 3, but its a good piece of mind to know that everything you just bolted together is ok to fire before you pull the trigger. I even have friends buy new rifles that bring them by my house to guage it before they go shooting for the first time. This is especially important if your not buying top shelf items. Prices vary greatly on punches, I have cheap ones and expensive ones, but shopping around is worth your time. One of my Starret's broke two days ago and I almost cried, I ended up using a harbor freight punch to finish the job. Starter punches are great to have and definitely make the job easier, but are not necessary if you are patient.

Either way will work as long as you train on it. Having said that though, in the training world, on AR mags, having the bullets to the rear is the preferred method by most. Instructions are basically good grasp on magazine with thumb on the rear spine of the mag, point the mag with your thumb into the magwell. There is no re-orienting the mag in your hand if its a difficult seat, you can just power it into place. Mine sits on my belt at 7oclock also for 3gun matches and this method works best for that location.

Wilson, not to be confused with Wilson Combat, does make a fine barrel, on my current upgrade, my decision has come down to a choice between a Wilson and a Criterion. But part of me is still considering a new rifle and I keep eying that Colt. I dont like the handguard though and would probably have to swap out a troy. Seems like the barrel on the Colt has been one of the better kept secrets going.

3-5 oclock is where its supposed to eject, as long as its not throwing it 20 feet away, there is no problem. Brass hitting the deflector is normal.

On Colts new 3gun model, who makes the barrel that is on it? I have searched several places, seems top secret.

amsoil stays wet for months and doesnt attract dust like a lot of lubes I have tried.

Amsoil 0w-50 and their full synthetic red chassis grease. the best comparison I have personally done between mobile1, castrol syntech and amsoil is using it for resizing rifle brass. On .223, I have to oil every other case with mobile1, every 3rd with castrol and about every 6 or 7th with amsoil before the cases get sticky in the die. I have used them all on some full auto stuff too and the amsoil stays wet and doesnt burn off as fast as the others. I use the lightweight chassis grease like slide glide, looks the same, a fraction of the price, not as stringy as slide glide, but wear pretty much stopped in the high friction areas of the guns i use it on.

Criterion is a sister company of Kreiger, I am considering one of the Criterion barrels for my next build.

if you shortened your lifter any at all by rounding the ends, you probably have caused it to hold the shell low because its too short to feed properly

Yep, mine looked the same. couldnt hardly get the gas piston to slide over it, had to use a file to smooth it up. It came from the factory that way. I tore it down when I got it out of the box, was very disappointed to see it. I figured it was from their tooling and carelessness.

plated bullets are a lot softer, more like lead, so following load data for lead is the norm. Jacketed bullets can be slightly more accurate, but since they are also twice as hard they tend to wear out barrels at a little faster rate than a plated would.

We lost a couple on the zipline, one was loading before the load line. The other was a weird one, the RO asked the shooter to show an empty chamber prior to starting, when he opened his action, a nice little live round popped out. Bad part was that he had been checked by an RO at the end of his last stage, the rd must have stuck, but he was cleared. He accepted fault like a swell guy, knowing that he should have verified his chamber himself and not relied on someone else to tell him it was clear. Great sportsmanship at this match. I saw guys get DQ'd and stick around and help with the stages for the ramaining two days.

Michael Voight won, I think Matt Burkett was 2nd.

stage 8 was definitely fun, except the door actuator was going to pot when I arrived. Kicked the door open, ready for the mover and nothing, RO yelling to activate it, I pushed the door open again and nothing, the RO slammed the door open against it as I was just putting my eyes down, the mover was passed me by the time I got my eyes back on the target opening, man that thing is fast. Then on the 2nd door, I experienced a ammo malfunction after shooting the first target, there are three turning targets that I was unable to shoot, which hurt my scoring a bit. I blazed the pistol section of that stage fairly well and the shotgun went ok, great stage, I was smiling the whole way through it.

After shooting about 50 various types of slugs, trying to find one that shot closer to point of aim in my JM 930, i took it home to clean it before i head off to the big match, I was horrified by the leading I observed inside the bore. it looked like a rusty old sewer pipe, took several hours to get it cleaned out. Anyone else having this problem? If it keeps up, im going to seriously consider rolling my own slugs with something like the Lee slug that fires the slug inside of a shotcup, so no barrel contact.

oregonshooting.com the COSSA website, has the full listing, no member requirements. Once you make your way to Calendar and Results

still looking for results. I completely trashed up a few stages, but got to shoot a few that I was very happy with my performance, I just wish they had all went that way. Had a great time and found a couple of stages that are my favorite so far in this game. Thanks guys for putting on a great match!

Im bringing my Motorhome and camping at the range, Travis said its no problem. No hookups, its a dry range, but he said they would have water there you can refill tanks with, probably with your cans. Im not sure where the designated RV parking is yet, I printed a map of the range and figured I would just pull in and drive until I found the first setup camp. I dont have a tow setup for a 2nd vehicle, so I figured camping at the range would be a lot less hassle than trying to move everyday.

anyone know what brand and model of FO sight is on the JM Pro, perhaps there is a taller version of it available. I targeted mine last week with 3 kinds of slugs, all were 8-10" high at 25 and 50 yards. At 50 one of the reduced recoil federal's started printing right a couple of inches. Looking at the current platform, it would take a very tall front sight to be able to put and use a rear sight on. the stock front sight is also very wide, I like a thinner setup.

remington 7 1/2 seem to run best so far.