kneelingatlas

This is becoming clear to me; before I started polishing parts I used light springs to lower the force needed to overcome friction and now I'm lowering the frictional coefficient for the same effect. I'm also toying with the idea of center milling the trigger plunger and disconnector on my Jericho to reduce the surface area the over which the friction acts.

I think that's a really complicated model into which you would have to plug a lot of assumptions; it's probably easier/cheaper to chop up some hammers and shoot some splits, I just wanted to save some time and ask others to share their experiences.

I drove a half hour to buy a Browning A5 Light Twelve this old timer told me over the phone was in MINT condition; even in the dim light of his shitty old trailer I could see rust pits in the receiver. When I made up some bullshit to back out without calling this 80 year old a dirty f*#king liar, he proceeded to lecture me for an hour about how young punks like me don't know a good deal when we see it. My point was that buyers who are not willing to pay full asking price even if the item is perfect better damn well be upfront about that. I've done it plenty of times, "the most I'm prepared to offer is $XXX, are you interested?". I had this happen just a few weeks ago: I'm selling a gun for $650, the guy arranges the meet, looks the gun over, "man this thing is perfect, will you take $600?" then I'm thinking {is it worth $50 bucks to relist this thing, waste more time/gas to go meet another buyer? f*#k it}. I walk away rightfully feeling like I got f*#ked. I like deals where both parties walk away feeling like they came out ahead. For a while I would ask perspective buyers "so are you willing to pay my asking price if it's as advertised?", but then I would feel like I'm turning them off, so I stop, then this happens. I guess I need to come up with a more tactful way to ask.

Feel free to correct me if I'm out of line but when I'm selling a gun to a private buyer the time to negotiate price is BEFORE THE MEET! I feel the meeting and inspection of the gun is a go/no go situation: if the gun is as promised, you buy, if not you walk. If I've got a gun for sale for $700, you arrange to meet me without saying a word about the price, then spring this "I love this gun, but the most I can offer you is $500" crap! If you had told me you only had $500 to spend, I wouldn't have wasted my time meeting you; you have stolen my time. While I'm at it, let's talk about the other side: I hate to see OBO after the price; I know it's a way of saying "I'm willing to entertain offers", but it's not! If that's what you want to say, say it! "or best offer"?!? What if I offer $10 for your STI Open gun? is there an infinite time period in which you will accept offers, then the best will take it? What if I come by with your best offer after you've committed to a buyer? AHHRRRG!!! OK, I'm all done [/rant]

Thanks for the input, I've got some spare hammers I'm going to start cutting up this weekend!

Ditch the dot Bob! Fiber optic front sights are all the rage right now, but I prefer a plain black post and notch (the advantage of good eyesight). The sight picture for you is the one that you can repeat most consistently, be it like the one above, covering the target with a FO dot or even a sub six hold (alright, that last one is pretty much useless shooting IPSC targets at different distances).

I really like that idea! So many of the stages I shot are pretty self explanatory: run to here, shoot, reload, run, shoot; it would be nice to have some options on where to take the targets from.

My mags drop free but ever if they don't it's not too hard to fix with a garage floor and a ball peen hammer.

I interchange the springs for my Jericho, Tanfoglios and CZs; my Jericho and Tanfos use a larger diameter guide rod, but the springs are the same. I have a bunch of different springs with weights I can only guess at judging by the wire diameter, but right now in the Jericho I'm running a heavy spring (12# I think) which came with the .41 AE barrel.

Steve, IWI Jerichos with an SP01 style rail are available new from Magnum Research, otherwise you can find them used in some places.

They're cut rate internet internet sellers, you don't really expect them to know what they're selling do you?

Cajun, does it have a cone lockup barrel?

I too have seen the pictures mixed up. I think the one you're referring to is the Limited Custom.

Beautiful! My guess on the slide weight: 15.7oz. Step right up gents, place your bets...

The Jericho has been around for quite some time and manufactured in different factories, so I don't think you can make generalizations about the accuracy of the whole family, but mine is very good. It's an IMI and I think at the time many parts were manufactured on Tanfoglio equipment. The design as a whole has a lot of potential for accuracy: it borrows the slide in frame design from the CZ75 and the trigger plunger from the Witness (although I haven't decided which is a better system: the trigger plunger or the bar spring found in early Tanfos and CZs, any input???) As far as the barrel life, mine was heavily used when I got it, I've shot the hell out of it and my polygonal rifled barrel looks brand new.

I got my first pistol at 11 and it was a Walther OSP2000 with a 47 gram trigger, so needless to say I'm hooked on light triggers. Right now my CZ75 TS breaks at 1#, 4oz with polished, stock internals, which I'm pretty happy with. On my Production Jericho, I finally got an 8.5# hammer spring running 100% with whatever primers I feed it; that one comes in around 2#, 4oz SA and 5#, 10oz DA. It has seemed to me, both intuitively and empirically that a heavy hammer can break primers more consistently than a light hammer driven by the same spring, but I see a lot of custom race guns with bobbed/lightened hammers? I understand that a light hammer spring is not as critical to a light SA trigger as it is to DA, but are these guns running heavy hammer springs? I would imagine a light hammer would make the fire and cycle faster, is that the reasoning? I am interesting in speeding up my TS (the slide is currently at fat camp losing two ounces), but before I start chopping up hammers, I thought I would seek some advice from the pros!

No dice. The 97B is not the same frame as the TS/Czechmate; the TS and the Czechmate are wide bodied, small frame guns whereas the 97B is a large frame gun which has a longer (from front to back) mag well to accommodate the longer .45 rounds (and potentially 10mm/.38 Super...). The 97B frame is very similar to the large frame Tanfoglio, the only difference being the location of the hammer spring: down the back of the grip on the 97B (like a 75) and transverse on the Tanfo. Since the Tanfo does not have a spring down the back of the grip it is almost the same length front to back as the small frame guns.

I don't think so. It's hard for me to compare because when I bring a gun home I usually have the Hogue grips waiting for it, I rarely even shoot them with the stock grips. Between my the tip of my pinky and the tip of my thumb measures just about ten inches with hand outstretched (I don't want to say I have 'big' hands, because that doesn't mean much to you does it?). I'm kind of a nut for Hogue grips and have put them on almost everything: on the Jericho they're a little small, on the 97B they're a little big and the Tactical Sport seems to be 'just right' (the large frame Tanfo is close to the TS, just a little more square).

Here's the full story on my Uzi Shadow: Tanfoglio factory large frame firing pin: Then I got out the Dremel/files and went to work. I flattened the rounded side and trimmed the length and got it working before I tackled the V notch for the safety/decocker. I clipped six coils from the stock spring and took it to the range. The 8.5# hammer spring would not set off any rounds and the 11.5# spring set off about 50%. I sent and email off to Wolff Springs with the dimensions to see if they had anything which would work, but didn't get a response, so I went to Marshall's Industrial Hardware (the world's greatest hardware store!) to check out their compression spring department. I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for, but I got a few I could double up. With the lighter springs, the 11.5# spring set off all the primers and the 8.5# set off about half; the problem was that when I dry fired, the firing pin traveled too far forward and got stuck in the hole in the breech face. Ideally my solution to this problem would be to use a spring with more, thinner coils, so the spring would be fully compressed before the pin got stuck in the hole. Since I don't have a spring factory at my disposal I tried some other combinations of the springs I have, including the little cutoff from the original, but unfortunately the more spring power I used to keep the firing pin from going too far forward, the more light strikes I got. Today I came up with a new approach: if I could just stop the pin before it got stuck the spring would only be strong enough to return the firing pin to the rearward position. I made a rubber washer which fell apart rather quickly, then I went to metal. I am, without a doubt, the gunsmith equivalent to a shade tree mechanic; I don't own a three axis computerized milling machine, nor a lathe, I have a Dremel, files, sand paper, a 1/2"HP drill press and a milling vise. So when I want to make a spacer out of metal, I go to my miscellaneous bolts coffee cans, find something about the right size, chuck it up in the drill press, file off the threads and drill a hole in it: I've also swapped the trigger plunger spring for a random spring I found on the floor of the hardware store which happened to fit (I'm guessing in the #6-10# range); all told I'm running SA in the neighborhood of 2#, 4oz and DA about 5#, 10oz and setting off all my primers (whichever brand BVAC uses on their re manufactured ammo).

Hogue #75000 the same as the CZ75 I made a post about it here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=163813&hl=

The Tanfoglio large frame mag well should be workable (the magazines are the same) although I would go with something which bolts on, so it can be removed to access the hammer spring plug. The extended base pads for the large frame Witness should also fit (if you end up using a mag well). Other than that, a SAO trigger/hammer should be all you need. In selecting the hammer, you will need to either use a narrow hammer like the stock one, or file the notch in the back of the frame to accept a full width hammer like the TS or the Shadow. I really like the stock hammer/trigger for the TS and the price is right too! ($20 for the hammer from CZC and $9 for the trigger from CZUSA). I used them for a SAO conversion on my Witness long slide:

10-4 that's what I suspected, thank you.

I ordered a long slide 10mm conversion for my steel Witness 45/22, it was "drop in" and fit pretty tight. I have found the dimensions of Tanfoglios are more consistent from model to model than CZs; slide/frame combos which 'should work' do.

What the grapemiester said... and drift those sights to the right.

Is a steel Witness with a Longslide conversion Production legal? The list just says Witness steel. Is the Match Production legal?