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kneelingatlas

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Everything posted by kneelingatlas

  1. My advice: get a Hunter and cut the dust cover to the desired length. Hunter top ends are not easy to come by and generally sell for half the price of the pistol.
  2. I agree with you, which is why I'm in favor of setting the 100% score at Nationals, under official conditions, with each compeditor seeing the stage for the first time. It might be fun to keep track of the highest score ever shot on the classifier, but all classifications should be calculated off the same 100% score for any given classifier stage.
  3. Springs: CGW reduced power trigger return spring for CZ Trigger plunger spring from Henning or a click ball point pen (lighter the better) Sear spring from CZ Reduced power hammer springs can make a SA trigger feel mushy so I recommend you stick to the stock one. Polish everything that moves and the inside of the frame where it touches. My Hunter came with a 5# trigger, <3# should be doable with the above springs for your first time. But a sub two pound Tanfo trigger with stock hammer/sear is a real art. The EGW hammer/sear is a pretty sweet setup, but I would try what I suggest first; it's cheap and I think you'll be satisfied.
  4. You can do it! Use this as a guide: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42537.0 It's a CZ, but the only real difference is the trigger plunger. If you need help, just ask
  5. They do suck out of the box, but a DIY trigger job is pretty straightforward.
  6. Have you tried all the fire control parts from the Match in the limited?
  7. I like the Hunter frame: you get the long competition frame you want without the crappy stock mag well you don't; plus they're easier to find here than the Limited.
  8. The big difference is the competition frame; if you never put your hands on one, you'll be happy with your Match, but if you do, nothing else will do! The Match is a great value: the trigger is just as good, the barrel/slide are basically the same (the Match rear sight sucks but Henning makes a fixed replacement). The downsides: -the new style, railed Match is heavy and has a funny balance to it -smooth grip on frame -no provision for mag well (although you can modify it for one pretty easy Is it worth it? I don't know, I have six Tanfoglios, five are competition frames and the Match is for sale...
  9. Interesting... Try using the hammer and sear from the Match. I have lots of Tanfo, swapping stuff around can really help.
  10. "We like guns too guys. We're cool right??? We totally wouldn't point our guns at you unless some asshat politician told us to..."
  11. Agreed, it could just be lots of over travel.
  12. kneelingatlas

    Canik S-120

    I have the T120 and really like it; save cheasy, not easily replaced sights and the narrow, stumpy beaver tail, I'd put them on par with any other CZ75 platform pistol.
  13. kneelingatlas

    Canik S-120

    The Canik/TriStars are not currently on "the list", so they're not, strictly speaking, Production legal, but that would stop me
  14. We all know the formula: light bullets, slow powder, lots of gas but there has to be a point when you're just blowing unburnt powder downrange right? I shoot 9 Major with HS6 and SP2 which seem to be the best powders for the task. I've shot 100gr bullets over 10gr of SP2 which essentially fills the case right to the brim and is crazy flat at 165PF (I know 112 is the minimum bullet weight for Major in USPSA). I've been thinking about more case capacity: 38 super, 357 SIG, .40; in theory with more case capacity you could get a bigger charge of a slower powder, but no one seems to be using slower powders, I suspect this is because any slower than say WAC, Silhouette, HS6, SP2, 3N38, etc, and you simply aren't burning the full charge of powder by the time the bullet exits a 5" barrel. Does anyone have any input on this? I've read a little about people using N120, but nothing slower I'm aware of.
  15. I used to have more than a dozen different calibers in my safe, but once I started shooting USPSA, I moved to simplify things: I shoot 9mm major and minor, rarely .40 as well. I used to have a 10mm which was cool, but expensive and totally useless in competition; I have been intrigued by the idea of a .357 SIG open gun, but if I'm going to get into a caliber where I have to care where my brass goes, I might as well get the capacity advantage of .38 super comp. Keep it simple: 9x19.
  16. Very cool! It looks just like a Tanfoglio grip.
  17. I'm very impressed! What did you use as a guide to keep the lines straight?
  18. How many deals are you making?!? Seven seems like a lot for the average wheeler dealer gun guy... Maybe you should start fishing in a different pool?
  19. Adam, CZ bought Dan Wesson in 2005 and continued to produce their revolvers and high end 1911s, at some point (I'm not sure when), DW started to offer double stack 2011 type pistols, they have a few models which have been around for at least the last few years: The Dan Wesson Havoc - 5" (strangely they list it as 4.25", but don't get me started on the CZ barrel lengths...) 9mm or .38 super - MSRP $4,299 The Dan Wesson Mayhem - 6" .40 - MSRP $3,899 The Dan Wesson Chaos - 5" 9mm - MSRP $3,829 I've got roughly $20K in CZs, but I'm not interested in 1911/2011s, so they're not worth much to me.
  20. Oh, that was on purpose?!? I thought that's just how he looks all the time in a warehouse full of guns and beautiful women
  21. Machinists' drill bit sets use numbers and letters rather than fractions; a #40 drill bit is 0.098" or 2.489mm, the closest fractional size is 3/32". ETA: Granger should have #40 drill bits.
  22. I like the picture of you holding the Stock two and Matt is sitting behind you with a goofy look on his face
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