kneelingatlas

I saw some Midway belts on sale for $14, so I couldn't help but try a few Not quite as stiff as CR Speed, but for less than a third the price it's a great loaner belt.

A barrel with ports only does nothing to mitigate the rearward push of the recoil, the other downside is that they vent gas from behind the bullet while it's still engaged in the rifling, resulting in lower velocity.

Cash Talks!

Maybe he could do like I do and use the rear sight from a Tactical Sport as a slide racker: You can lay your left hand flat atop the slide and catch the rear sight with the side of your index finger; I have one of these on my SP01 Shadow Target as well as some of my Tanfoglios cut for the Super Sight rear. Otherwise, can he manipulate a wheel gun?

Like Sarge said, the STI Trubor has a comp and barrel machined from a solid piece of metal.

The same

I send my slide off for milling work, so I've haven't fired any more .40 through it, but I did do an interesting experiment with a .380 case which made it's way into my 9mm loads: it was a light steel load (3.15gr Clays under a 115) so I figured I'd shoot it and see what happens It chambered fine and I could see the rim was securely behind the extractor so I shot it; it sounded funny as the brass fire formed to the chamber, but when I extracted it I could see what that article (http://www.thegunzone.com/10v40.html) warned of: there was a scratch in the rim where it pulled past the extractor with the primer ignition then it was slammed back into the breech face, flattening the primer against the head stamp. Granted, this is obviously less likely to happen with 40/10 because the rim is exactly the same, but I can now see how it could happen.

The first is my 6" Limited Tanfo, a small frame Tanfo Open gun, then my Y7 Good Team.

It just occurred to me you probably don't know how a Hunter guide rod is made, so you don't have the same picture in your head as I do; it's made from two pieces: the rod and the block. There's a pin keeping the two together so I just punch the pin, slide the rod out, cut the block and put the rod back in.

I'm not worried about it, it only get compression force and no more than a rubber buffer, plus if it cracks I'll make a new one

Tricky? Nah! I wrapped sand paper from 150 to 1000 around a 1/2" wooden dowel, chucked it up in my drill press and ever so slowly removed metal until the cone fit snug, then I polished with 2500 grit sandpaper until it would spin smoothly.

I could think any roll pin of the same diameter would work

I want to share some interesting observations about the slide stroke of my different Open guns. As some of you might know I have a few different Open pistols including CZs, Tanfoglios and 2011s in both 9 and 38 as well as an insatiable urge to tinker So when I first heard about pistols with increased slide stroke, I just had to try it The design of the Tanfoglio Hunter lends itself to experimentation in this way because the slide impacts a block at the base of the guide rod rather than the frame at the rear of the stroke so all I had to do was cut it: This let's me change the stroke by simply changing the guide rod. This easy comparison led me to conclude that there is a tangible softening of the recoil to be gained by this modification; logically, there should be a longer lock time to the cycle as a tradeoff, but I could not detect it. I have not yet done any time trials side by side to see if the softer feel translates into higher scores, but those will come someday Naturally this got me thinking about stroking all the time I couldn't help but think it would be a great way to mitigate the snap of an Open gun with a short barrel/lots of holes/light slide/etc so I started studying all my Open guns and planning. I first assumed the large frame CZ75 pattern pistols would have a longer stroke than the small frame pistols, but the calibers proved me wrong, they're the same; then I noticed the 2011s by design had a longer stoke than the CZ75s: 1.875" vs 2.115", so right out of the gate that's 0.240" difference and "stroked" 6" still had a shorter stroke than a stock 2011! The next step is to see if there's something to the design making it not need such a long stroke, i.e., will stroking a CZ by 0.440" cause it to feel sluggish or lopey? Again I will go back to the Hunter since the stroking is reversible and the only thing at risk is a guide rod. I had heard Akai say his stroked guns had an additional 0.2" of stoke, but I stopped at 0.134" with my Hunter because I was running out of the fat part on the guide rod and didn't want a smaller diameter block to impact the slide, so to get more stroke I plan to cut a section out of the middle of the block and weld it back together again. Stay tuned...

The factory screw is just a standard M4 screw, the Henning one has the head turned down.

If you look closely at the above compared to my first effort below you'll notice the first wore an SP01 slide and the second is a 75SA slide. The OD of the barrel used in the 75SA pistols is 12.75mm, whereas the OD of the SP01 barrel is 14mm, just like the Czechmate, TS and Shadow, so the bushings are a different size as well. The Czechmate slide is a TS slide with roughly a half inch cut off, including the bushing, so the CM employs a cone comp to lock up the barrel and slide. I found the SP01 slide has slightly too big with the bushing removed, so I changed to a 75SA slide which was slightly too small with the bushing removed and opened it up to a prefect fit with the CM cone. The barrel used is a TS barrel cut down to length (the 75SA slide is slightly shorter than the CM slide).

I made some mods to my Czechmate comp on my 75SA, but I still plan to open up the fourth port some more

Mixed brass, 9 major, never had a failure.

I was too young to have ordered anything back in the stone ages of retail, but do you remember those TV commercials? "Please allow 5-7 weeks for delivery" Now my wife orders groceries at 8pm and they're at our door by 5am! It's an exciting time to be alive!

Awesome!

The national office was overreaching, it was rejected by the area directors and it was forgotten; it's call nullification.

Most people don't have 12 holes in their barrel for a 9mm GT, you should expect it to take almost 8gr of WAC under a 124 to make major.

125gr pill is a good idea to take the sting out of the slap in the hand, N320 is way too fast, Blue dot is probably too slow, so Power Pistol is probably your best shot of those three. I bought a Bedell super shorty (4.4" barrel) with three holes which came with some PP loads, they made major but were pretty violent. I think Autocomp, CFE Pistol or HS6 with a 125 is the best bet for major in a 9mm GT. Before I gave up and sold my 9mm GT top end I made 164pf with 8.3gr of HS6 under a 124; with the same load I could count on ~8% more velocity with my CZ (same length barrel, no holes).

Perhaps if you provided a name Google might provide some images we could look at

Jack, who is this woman and what is she shooting? "CZ type" covers a lot of ground and in the context of this conversation this: is very different than this: