HOGRIDER

Having loaded for MANY YEARS on a couple off XL650s, I made the move to the RL1100. Ran it manually for right at 2 years. Purchased the Mark 7 Apex 10; operated it for a year manually, and now have it fully automated. All my loading has been primarily competition pistol calibers. I can honestly say I totally agree with @StefVanHauwein that the Apex10 is a superior machine to the RL1100; especially now that they are basically in the same price range! I would NEVER want to go back to 8 stations, vs 10 with the Mark 7! I primarily do single pass reloading with fully pre-process brass; and IMO, the two extra stations along with a standard 7/8" x 14 threaded port over the priming station are definitely game changers! And if you do decide to go automated, the Mark 7 Digital Automation with optional Sensors truly gives me piece of mind while allowing me to produce consistent premium quality reloads! HTHs!

@yigal: The pic offered by @GunBugBitdoes not do the EE Race Disconnector justice............ The contact surfaces come pre-polished: https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Browse-by-Manufacturer/Extreme-Engineering/Extreme-Race-Disconnector

@DrewM I would have to agree if the Deep River Customs kit was merely a group of parts that were picked and used to complete the order as are the Thunder Mountain kits; of which I have purchased several! Same thing happens with EGW's ignition "kits" as they are a box of parts that are being picked from specific bins of individual parts to make up the kit. Knowing the folks personally at Deep River, I don't think this is the case. I honestly feel that their "kit" is going though a series of final hand fitting, polishing, adjusting, and dimensionally checking to take out the fine tuning and polishing work that you and I would normally do prior to final installation. Of course, the end user will need to adjust the final desired weight of the sear spring. I also feel Deep River's custom kit is similar to what Bob is doing with his EXCELLENT Brazos Pro Performance Tuned Trigger Group; of which I also have personal experiences with: https://www.1911store.com/Tuned-Trigger-Group-BCG-Brazos-Pro.aspx Anyone having interest in or specific questions about the Deep River kit can obtain detailed info by calling Hugh at the Florida location: (352) 556-1789. HTHs!

If I were wanting to update a Prodigy with EXCELLENT quality parts that are ready to drop in, this would be my go to: https://deeprivercustoms.com/product/trigger-kit/ Minor adjusting of the sear spring to get the pull weight your after!

Understand........... I've never shot IDPA; but if their allowed, would recommend the Atlas IDPA Shielded for LH! https://atlasgunworks.com/product/shielded-idpa-lefty-thumb-safety-dlc

Assuming you bought the Hybrid Black - IDPA edition........I wonder if IDPA rules allow the use of extended ambi safeties? Do they have to fit in a "box" for Carry Optics Division? If not, I'd check to see if anyone offered a shielded ambi for lefties! Really like the Double Tap RH shielded safety on my LOC.......

@arcsign Here's an excellent example of a "tuned" fire control group that includes PREMIUM parts and the excellent Red Dirt trigger specifically designed for the Prodigy stock grip: https://deeprivercustoms.com/product/trigger-kit/ https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/prodigy-grip/ It's very important, IMO, to have an aftermarket trigger that offers a trigger bow that's not too long; and simplified adjustments that definitely benefit the beginner or less experienced shooter! If your using the Prodigy for competition, most 2011 type guns will use the 17# mainspring; especially with updated ignition parts! And YES, it's safe to assume that all individual 1911/2011 parts will need fitting and/or adjusting to produce a SAFE and trouble free pistol! HTHs

I think most will agree, but IMO you may want to stick with the stock ambi safety until your ready to upgrade your entire ignition system! If you purchase a shielded ambi to use with your existing parts, the safety will have to be fit to your existing sear/hammer configuration. Then if you later purchase an upgraded ignition system (highly recommended), you'll have to spend additional money on another safety or at least have yours welded and refit to the new components. There is the possibly of having a new ignition system fit that doesn't require a new thumb safety; however it will take a very experienced 1911/2011 gunsmith that can measure and recut a sear to match existing specs. Good luck! The Prodigy is an excellent platform to get started with! PS: Not sure your on FB; but if so, there's some excellent posts regarding setting up the Prodigy for LO! Be sure and take notice of the posts by Jeffrey Abernathy......... https://www.facebook.com/groups/733497351411414/search/?q=Prodigy

There are TONS of posts about using the Prodigy for USPSA competition on this very site: https://forums.brianenos.com/search/?q=Prodigy&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=3 IMO, find a good 1911/2011 gunsmith near you or in your region that can help you decide and make the right choices based on your actual needs! It's a great platform to start with! Good luck!

Don't remember as it's been a while ago since I removed the spring....but if so, it would be a simple matter of adjusting the micrometer a few "clicks". Using quality JHP bullets, my Redding with NO SPRING averages OALs in the +/- .0025" range once the shell plate is full.

Doesn't need approval! I have a friend that's an Engineer at Redding and he told me it was perfectly alright to remove the spring and use the die without it! I did that and am experiencing excellent OAL consistency!

With the approval of Redding Customer Service and Engineering, it's ok to completely remove the spring if the die has been disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated per instructions. Myself, and many others here, have removed the spring and are using the die with excellent results in depth/OAL consistency. Check the previous posts in this thread............

Sorry........yes I was referring to TRIGGER bounce........

I'm still curious if you ever checked that the pistol had sufficient PRE-TRAVEL? Did you also check for hammer bounce as I posted above? IMO, if your using John's hammer sear combo it doesn't get any better. However that is subject to change is your sear and hammer pin holes are not perfectly aligned. Of course, bluing the sear nose should have already verified that.....

Guessing here..........maybe contact this Dealer that used to sell/support Ammobot? https://immortobot.com/

IMO, adjusting the pull weight by bending the sear spring should be the LAST tuning step after a trigger job and/or replacement sear/hammer combo has been performed! Start with sear/hammer engagement. Sometimes variables in frame specs and tolerances can cause a drop in trigger kit to yield worse results than the factory/OEM trigger performance. This was posted by a highly respected 'smith that truly understands 1911/2011 fire control operation. He suggested this for those questioning the sear/hammer interface........ Could be an option if your still looking for that unusual occurrence.........

@GunBugBit You may already have Bob's excellent Tuning document; but just in case, here's the link: https://www.brazoscustom.com/post/trigger-group-tuning-and-maintenance IMO, it contains some very pertinent information when dropping in an upgraded sear/hammer combo! Pay close attention to setting both over-travel AND pre-travel! Lack of pre-travel can definitely cause hammer follow............ If you have the new fire control group out of the pistol again, measure the thickness of the lower legs of that new sear. Compare to the OEM sear..... HTHs!

Previously loaded many .356" bullets on Dillon presses, and all I ever used was the OEM MBF style powder funnel. Never had bullets falling regardless of speed............

@boatdoc173Always glad to help. Also want to support @shred reference to loading the shell plate along with using/inserting an unsized case when doing the final setting/lockdown of the sizing die!

I can remember users saying the Redding sizing dies actually have a bit smaller opening than the Dillon dies. Inside micrometer could easily verify. Can remember on the XL650 that the black case insert slide cam had to be adjusted perfectly to keep the case from springing/backing out of the shellplate as the cam retracted; or there would be case mouths catching on the sizing die....

@boatdoc173If you haven't already, disassemble the die and remove the spring! Give it a thorough cleaning and try again..... Pretty good read from a few years ago. Many have experienced your same issue: And another good thread............ HTHs!

I was in the same boat.....and still have many pounds of N320 sealed in a climate controlled room. Don't think it'll go stale...........

IMO, that's a lot of questions/variables that only YOU can answer depending on your likes/dislikes........ My MPA really likes the 124 JHP with VV N330 per my bench results:

Worth noting: Photo Escape is manufacturing these funnels to the MBF OEM specifications! Available at the PE website; and UniqueTek has been selling them for some time! https://uniquetek.com/shop/ols/categories/powder-handling The DAA unit is "now" of their own manufacture............

OEM instructions from the "man" himself.........have always worked for me!