Matt Griffin

I bought my first speedloader gun, a 686 Pro, this weekend. I already had 6 Comp IIIs from a 50% certificate to Safariland, so it was practice time. I found that placing my index fingertip on the speedloader shoulder helped a lot, feeling the loader fire gave me a much more positive motion off of the gun and back to the grip. I'm still working out how best to index the loader to the cylinder; it seemed to help to come in at a slight angle and then tip up, but I need to chamfer and make some proper round-nose dummies before I can be sure. Fun stuff, though.

I believe it, once the scar tissue forms there's not much to be done. That said, even if the scar tissue has formed don't let it sit, get arthroscopic surgery to repair the site, or you might get worse from the weakened area continuing to tear. A year out and I'm just now somewhere in the 97% range of ability after the ligament repair. I've started lifting weights again, but it's hard to trust the elbow with anything despite it feeling good.

Doesn't that sound pretty extreme to anyone else, .018 of shimming? It might be time to get your yoke stretched or replaced.

It's always too much strong hand when I do the same, my grip tension is changing between the first and second shot, no doubt in response to recoil. Put your brain in your trigger fingertip and feel the texture of the trigger face during both shots, if you do that it will likely distract you enough that you'll be consistent in other areas of your hands.

I can confirm that the regular CED 7000 will pick up dryfire at sensitivity 8, I assume the airsoft version will be even better. It's effective to maybe eight inches of distance. I just find a surface that's roughly that distance under my normal stance, pick a target that causes the gun to hover over the timer, and go to town.

Un-real. I'd seen him before and it still doesn't prepare you for just how fast he was.

I asked in the revo forum and now I know a bit more about what it is and what it isn't. I have a rounded bolt, it allows the cylinder to freewheel backwards. There seems to be a consistent and sufficient amount of edge left on the cylinder, I eyeball it at around .007 or so, and peening on the forward edge is almost nonexistent. Numrich doesn't have the bolt in stock, and I also need the correct ejector rod cap and front sight adjustment screw. Serial is 3345xx. This was my grandfather's gun, and my uncle is asking me to see about getting it working again. Any help appreciated, I'm sure there would be fitting necessary for a new bolt, but I'm willing to take the time to go slow and fit it, if it's just a matter of taking down the bolt head correctly to mate with the cylinder. Any help in locating the parts would be appreciated.

I'd love to go, but as I'm not commercially associated I don't qualify. It's a shame because I need to start digging into sponsorships and marketing.

My grandparents passed away over the last two years, and one of the things that came out of their possessions was a Colt PP as the subject says. It's a funny beast for someone who only knows about Smiths, the cylinder stop is offset to the side of the frame and it does not engage the cylinder notch well enough to prevent it from free-turning backwards. Question: Where could I get another cylinder stop for what looks to be a 50+ year-old gun? Question: How can I determine if the cylinder is still good to go? the counter-rotation notch edge seems very shallow, but maybe that's how the Colt is supposed to be? Question: What's a good online resource for this sort of gun? I'm medium handy with a revolver by now, but maybe there's some sort of clockspring weirdness in there I don't know about. Thanks, my revolutionary folks.

Yep, I didn't lay off like I should have, my ligaments went at the World Shoot, and ten months after surgery I still feel it. The most important thing to understand is that tendons and ligaments don't heal like muscles do. They take months to repair the same damage that a muscle fixes in a week.

I'm thinking about getting an M&P, is the CORE different than the Pro 5" in a significant way other than the optics mounting? Am I looking at the right models for production/3-gun, the 5" Pro?

I put this on the timer once and ran 10 or 15 iterations. Shooting "against" the direction of travel cost me .5 seconds nearly every time. As for engagement, there are a few factors. 1. First, you're usually going to be moving in a consistent direction, more or less. This will naturally present the correct target first. for example, if you're moving right-to-left then as you approach the port/door/position you'll naturally be presented the leftmost target first. Interestingly this runs opposite of what semiauto shooters generally desire due to reload safety on the 180, righties that are majority right-eye dominant typically want to move left-to-right, which makes them shoot right-to-left in many positions. As a cross-dominant revolver guy whose reload stays centered, I can move either direction with equal safety, but I will generally go for right-to-left movement because it lets each new target come into my strong eye. 2. Second, it don't mean a thing if you ain't got that . . . crouch. If you're shooting standing tall then you have to wait for gravity to drop you far enough for your pushoff leg to get traction. Likewise if you're in a crouch but your transitions have leaned you so far over that your trailing leg is straight, you have to reposition that foot before you can use it to push off. The best finishing position is having your weight towards the next position, centered roughly over that foot, crouched low enough that you have some bend in the other leg. When you break the last shot pick up your front foot and push off with the rear, that's the fastest you can start moving from a stop. Matt "crazy legs" Griffin

Immediate response is that he isn't following through, we all fall victim to that. I'd have him start slow, tape his non-dominant eye, and practice maintaining focus on the front sight through the shot and picking up the sight after the shot without a transition. From there you can speed up a bit, always making sure that he's seeing the sight lift, and then finally add transitions back in. If he can't report back that he saw every sight lift then he has to slow down and focus harder.

All right, I'm hearing Marlin in the reasonable calibers and Browning in the thumpers. I wouldn't be surprised if he goes down to a .357 once he sees what ammo costs for the big boys. Thanks everyone!

I just put everything together to get a start, other than a magnified optic. I built an AR for about $800. $250 Gieselle trigger, MK12 barrel, everything else pretty standard with a rifle length FF tube and JP adj. gas block. MOA to 200 so far. I caught a ridiculous deal on the Bushnell TRS-25 dot, $45, and it works beautifully, though I'm putting an EoTech on to look cool. Shotgun I bought a 930 before the JMs were out, Nordic +6 extension, clamp, and bolt handle. I had my brother weld a slug of metal onto the lifter then dremeled it down and dremeled open the port. Cheap HiViz fiber sights on the rib so I can have a good picture for slugs. Pistol I'm using my Limited G35, already had the full setup. On the belt it's two FSL 8s, one 4x4, one AR pouch, holster, and double mag pouch for pistol. Mag wise I bought two Nordic extensions, 46 rounds and so far completely reliable, plus a box of PMAGs. So that's $800 and $550 and $300 on the belt, then $100 in mags. Not too bad. I haven't been able to blame my equipment yet.

Sure, but I have an unsteady hand so there are a few nicks on the finish. Don't laugh. I'll take some pics tonight.

I have a friend who wants to get a lever action in a larger caliber (.44, 30.06, etc.) and I don't know anything about the various brands and who is making a good lever gun these days. This is for shooting and hunting, not SASS. Last I checked Marlin still made a good lever gun, but I don't know anything about the other options or if that remains the case. Any advice appreciated. Matt

For a basic dot it's very hard to beat the Bushnell TRS-25. Nice small dot and extremely well built for sub-$100.

Done. I just abused my 50% off Safariland card that was given out at Nationals. Serious amounts of toys are on the way.

I'll point out that if you're opening it up for load 2/4, then an undercut lip by the follower is extremely helpful, as well as heavily relieving the forearm and putting a ramp on the plastic thing that overlaps the receiver.

Excellent! Now you know what you want to see, it's time to do some full moons, or even some click-click-bang-click-click-bang moons. If you can get the sight returning after recoil and staying in the notch then you know you can run that fast or faster. I wouldn't try going crazy yet, right now is the time to convince yourself that fast isn't necessarily out of control. I usually push until the group gets as wide as the A zone or I simply run out of trigger finger speed. When you start working with full moons I'll be interested to hear the results. There's a sneaky trick I found that can really help when you're going all out.

Can you use this system with a normal belt, or does it require the Safariland two hole belt?

Mucho thanks for your time! I'll try to get this done Monday or Tuesday. To clarify, I'm looking to see what the front sight is doing specifically in it's movement? For instance "a little up and down with a slight left to right"? I'm pretty certain it will have settled in close to the aiming point before #6. I see some of this in dryfire practice. But I'll do this test this week. I expect it's going to bounce all over the place. A max-speed trigger pull on a revolver is a disturbing thing. When I work on this I can usually get it where the fiber stays in the rear sight, that's what you're hoping to get to. If the fiber is in the rear sight you're going to hit the A out to seven yards or so, but you might be surprised just how taxing those five clicks are to your concentration, stamina, and gun/target position.

You're probably looking too hard. Go to the range and do this: Put in a single round in your clip, set the gun to click five times before firing. You need to do this from a draw or table start. Put a target at 7 yards or whatever you feel is "can't miss" and run the gun at the target as fast as you can. The object is to see how the sights move because of YOU, not the recoil. Chances are by the time you hit that sixth click (boom!) you'll have settled the pattern down. For general improvement related to speed, I would point my finger at two things: waiting too long for a perfect sight picture before starting the pull (see above) or way too much tension in the strong hand locking up the trigger finger. Hit the range and try the click drill and report back, we can go from there. Be sure and note what you see during the drill and we can discuss what others see afterwards.

All due respect to Bob, but I would imagine he was shooting a large steel plate. It's a good trick and I'm not saying that I can do it but it usually revolves around the splatter popping the balloon.