Harmon

sawdust or small wood chips works better to flux the lead than wax and it smells better (not that your supposed t be smelling the fumes!) wax smokes really bad, stinks and has a tendency to catch fire if the melt is too hot. beware of plated or TMJ bullets. the core will melt and the jacket may or may not be intact. ive seen lead shoot out of tears in the jacket with enough force to leave the pot and possibly burn bystanders. commercial cast bullets make the best lead for casting your own.

I am looking for a larger magazine well than what i have on my pistol now (TF brass slug) im shooting 45 acp in limited with arredondo basepads. will this magazine well work with those basepads? Harmon

i can with utmost confidence tell you that the malfunction is due to cartridge overall length. it SHOULD be longer than 1.250 with that bullet and no longer than 1.270"

a duty gun does not need a large magwell. in the event that the magazine needs to be stripped from the gun, the magwell covers the cutout in the frame that is there for the purpose.

too much crimp, or too much case flare.. sizing dies dont wear unless they are extremely abused..even sizing sand coated brass, it should last more than 1000 rounds, its likely that it would just scratch the die or the weaker brass. Harmon

i shoot the lee 1 oz over unique powder in a single shot rifled gun and cant get it to group. 50 yards is minute of pie plate. the lyman slug will send them into a giant cloverleaf. the lee slug is cheaper, but not better in my opinion. also in a smoothbore, ive noticed low recoil versions of the lee tend to de-stabilize at subsonic velocity near 75 yards.

that is very good, I thought they had to be soldered on the barrel Harmon

i run .5 grains less powder with lead or coated bullets vs jacketed data. seems to work for me.

your overworking your brass by undersizing them and shooting them in an oversized chamber. my lone wolf barrel had a very tight chamber that had to be reamed to accept most lead bullet loads. i have never had a problem with my KKM tubes. they are great.

im planning on going. Im excited!

reduce a 130 grain load and chrono. ive loaded that powder with 147 grain XTP in my SVI to major with supercomp brass and federal small magnum pistol primers...the load data escapes me at this point though. Harmon

just trim them off

the reloader can set the headspace off of the shoulder. headspace the first time is probably on the shoulder too. pull the bullet on a new case and completely cut off the neck. insert the shortend case into your gun. close the slide, pull the trigger, it WILL detonate the primer. here is a test of the headspace mystery....article on sig headspace

having fired nearly a quarter of a million rounds of cast bullets in everything from 380, 9mm, 40, 357/38 7mm tcu, .308 rifle, 41, 44 mag, 45 auto and 4570... I don't know what is experienced but i think i would seem to fit the definition.. most of my experience has been with higher pressure calibers...with the exception to the 45 auto. I am not sure that the smoke actually comes from the lube (at least all of it anyway...) I have tested different powders, bullets and lubricants to come to the following conclusions: flat base bullets smoke less than bevel based bullets. Lee Liquid Alox smokes less than hard commercial lubricant. the above mentioned alox applied to commercial cast bullets REDUCES the smoke... Gas Checks almost eliminate smoke. very little smoke from my 44 mag TC contender shooting 330 Grain hand cast gas checked bullets. That was a max load with Win 296 powder for 1350 fps. 9mm seems to be the most peculiar about cast bullets (short light bullets, fast twist, fast powder and 35Kpsi make problems) some powders smoke less than others...even with jacketed bullets. commercial bullets are cast sometimes too hard for some loads to "bump" them up to fill the rifling and seal the bore, thus getting gas cutting, throat leading and increased smoke. and here i stand waiting on the ATF to get me my paperwork for an 06 FFL for a bullet business..cast bullets to be exact. I know shooters believe the hard wax lube is to blame for the smoke, I don't believe that. It is my belief that the smoke originates from exposed lead bases being burned by the high flame temperature fast burning powders coupled with the bevel based bullets funneling the hot gases in between the bullet and the bore specifically in the throat causing gas cutting and ultimately exposing the hard lube to the propellant gasses thus contributing to the smoke. Countless hours of experimenting and testing leaves me here: a coated bullet strikingly similar to several others on the market but in my testing. show less signs of leading and smoke in my guns. enjoy the following video.

ive seen more smoke from FMJ loads than some lead loads. 22 rimfires dont smoke appreciably i think the smoke comes from burning lead...swaged bullets normally are coated completely in lubricant and the powder has to burn through that coating to get through to the lead. because of this, and the low hardness number, folks are less inclined to "nail" them with 40KPSI loads that make major in 40 smith and wesson. swaged bullets are normally OK for low power putt putt target loads. those light target loads are less likely to create gas cutting that the higher pressure loads do. if you recover a fired cast bullet, most (if not all) of the lube is still in the groove(s) which raises the question, Does that little wax removed by the rifling grooves cause the enormous cloud of smoke? i cant see it. the facts are: powders smoke when the burn Primers smoke when they are fired. oil residue smokes when the gun is shot exposed lead causes smoke waxy lubricants smoke. add them all up and some loads may smoke more than others. i would like to see a scientific approach to this question.

wst or clays. 3.8 with clays 4.1 with WST with 230 grain lead or coated 1.250 oal.

4 grains of bullseye is not anywhere near enough powder to get reliable function with a stock 45 acp glock pistol shooting 230 grain jacketed ammo. Its not feeding because the slide is not going far enough to the rear. according to their website, 5.7 grains should be max at 840 fps and 5.1 grains should be the start load for 230 FMJ at 1.260. i load my 230 roundnose(cast or jacketed) to 1.250" with 4.1 grains WST for cast or coated bullets or 4.0 grains CLAYs for jacketed or plated.

i built mine, and it runs...but i had some problems with the lone wolf barrel and it's needlessly tight chamber and throat dimensions. reamed the 40 cal out to 1.200 length freebore with .401 dia cast bullets and reamed the chamber wtih a cylmer reamer to make it "standard" 40 caliber. the trigger on the gun is silly. 2 pound and slick. brass magwell siedler mount Bushnell micro dot*copy of aimpoint micro* Lone wolf G22 threaded barrel. Jager Comp. tungsten guide rod 13 pound spring. big stick holds 24 and the 140s hold 20. i plan on building a9mm just about like it. and i dont feel like ill be giving anything up to the SJC.

get a factory 3.5 pound connector. polish the contact parts and do not accidently shoot anyone and that should keep you out of civil court. If you plan on using the gun for self defense manage your assets to keep them from being subject to judgement...most of my stuff is covered by homestead exemption on my property and a 500000 dollar civil liability insurance policy. to keep your property safe, you must do this before you receive the letter in the mail that reads "GREETINGS: ......." for a competition gun, do whatever you want...and if you ultimately have to defend yourself with a highly modified competition gun, DONT HESITATE! if you do ultimately lose every material thing you own in a civil lawsuit you can still say, i had these things, and i can get them again...whereas the dead man....doesnt get to keep his stuff either.

i dont load them because they are harder to load(resize) than regular brass and they also have a primer drawback problem allowing the decapping pin to pull the spent primer back into the primer pocket. this is specific to speer brass, none others. as far as cracking, in the past i have loaded in excess of 15000 of these in my quest to make Master until the nickle coating was worn off and never ever had one split i really like regular ole brass...in particular remington for some reason...it loads better than winchester. Harmon

i never understood the need for the sideways mounts for c-mores...then again im not selling them or promoting them for those who are selling them. I never suffered from the "c-more shuffle" a good strong index with an iron sighted pistol is the building block to being able to effectively shoot an open gun. I hear too many people say they are switching to open because they cannot see the sights and then they start looking for a lower/different mount, bigger brighter dot, and other alternatives claiming they cant find the dot when the problem really lies within the shooter himself not in the equipment. most complaints of not seeing the sights stems from the shooter not presenting the gun correctly and with that bad index burnt into the skillset of the shooter, an optically sighted open gun is going to give poor results as well. my favorite complaint is " i cant shoot glocks, they shoot high for me..." TOTAL BS they shoot high because somebody is not aiming. The ONLY thing i would change on your gun is to add a larger magazine well...nearly perfect as-is.

Good to hear he is doing better.