C-Money

I sold the gun to someone who knew full well all the history of the gun and then sold it on. I kinda wish I had it back but it does have a problem of dropping the hammer early. I bet of all the guts were gutted including trigger bar and sear cage it could be returned to reliability. I was not the first person to tinker with that gun and I think it was sold to me as someone's personal gun as "new" at great profit. I had to send it back once to the Smith who sold it to me because of a safety issue. My advice to everyone is to learn how to do your own work or find someone local who knows how to gunsmith. That means sear engagement angles. Everything else is very simple. That gun did break a lot of springs, but I did dryfire it for many hours a day. Now that I'm old, fat, and lazy and don't dryfire much my springs last forever. I'd grease the spring coils, use either a CGW or PD TRS, and replace it once a season. So far that's worked for me on my two stock 2's.

Tighten the overt ravel screw until the gun will not drop the hammer in SA. Then back out until it will. Then back out further until the hammer does not contact the sear as you slowly lower it with the trigger pulled. You can back it out a bit further if you want for extra peace of mind, but this is the optimum point. You will have some overtravel when finished.

I bet we won't like the poly due to the thickness of the area directly to the front of the braver tail. The gun most likely has a metal en-bloc style sear and hammer sun assembly which will fit into the plastic frame. This adds thickness right in an area you don't want it: the Web of your hand. This is why some guns like the FNP, refer American, and some other hammer-fired plastic fired guns just aren't comfortable. I could be wrong but this new poly Witness just doesn't look like a winner to me.

Ooops, didn't see you had a round trigger guard. DAA does have an insert for the round trigger guard Tanfos but my personal experience is with the square insert. I have some experience with a round insert for a 1911, and it is not as stable as with a square insert. It is secure, but the gun can rotate slightly. You may want a muzzle support as well if that bothers you.

I don't know about the slide Rackers but my Limited with a fin works fine on a DAA racemaster.

I am disappoint.

The stated reason is that frame tolerances were so bad that the solid pin sometimes didn't fit. This is because the holes would not line up. IMO a more likely reason is that Henning got tired of people losing the tiny nut which secured his solid pin.

Here's a video on some of the basepads that are Production legal:

You can reuse the factory roll pin.

I got so frustrated with this problem that I filled the hike in the frame with JB Weld. Now the magwell won't move at all. Of course, when it comes time to replace the magwell I might need the Dremel to cut out the epoxy. A custom-cut bushing in the frame hike would have been my preferred choice, either in Delrin or brass. I'm thinking a lot of possible materials would work. Just find something that fits snugly, line up magwell and mark bushing, then drill out a hole where you need it to be. Or Henning could make the Wells with a set screw.

I plan on doing this, so we will see.

This makes sense!

They might cost more and be more shiny?

1.150 is what my mags will allow.

It's just closers to the frame, higher up on the trigger.

You make mistake!

No. It has no effect on anything but the shape of the trigger bow.

I have them in my S2s. Like it better than the stock trigger but my God was it over priced. I got it to make the SA better, and it did but it wasn't dramatic.

Imagine how great they would be if there were no holes and the whole thing was checkered? That's what I'm getting at. There is no reason at all for there to be the cuts in the grips other than looks. The argument I have heard for the scales is that less grip surface = more grip. That's... I'm trying to find a nice way to say it. Suboptimal. Yes, gaps are good so your hand can deform and so that friction is high. But when you basically take away most of the surface of the grips you go way too far. I tried them, I wanted to like them. I tried the fatter ones, tried to like them, but can't get past how bad the waffles feel in my hand. They are both slippery and painful. Slippery because theyou have a smooth finish and painful because I squeeze hard enough to push my skin into the holes. Then when the gun recoils the grips slide right out of my grasp. Sorry for the rant. It's practice for what I have to say in a future video.

I take it you meant Eric Grauffel grips? The EG grips are very, very thin. Take your grips off and that's about how things they are. They are very well made and look very nice. Their grip is adequate, but with Henning's new texture I think the Henning grips are a bit rougher. The texture does not go all the way up on Henning's however, and I wish it did. I can't speak to fit because Henning fit my grips at his shop and they seem rock solid while I had to embiggen the holes in my Grauffel grips to get them to go on, and the grips left some gaps as well as never got as tight as I would have liked. That said, I think the EG grips are right up there with Henning's for machining quality and looks.

So far I like them the best of the Tanfo grips I've tried. The Grauffel were way too thin, factory are too fat and too fragile, and the scales were too uncomfortable and have no grip unless you wrap them in grip tape. I've been doing that but it's a pain. I've had people complain the Henning grips don't have enough meat at the upper portion of the grip for your support hand to lock onto. That's valid, and I personally seem to have a problem with any grips but factory where I push up on the slide stop and the gun locks back while I'm shooting. I'm a rare case, though. I no longer have the Grauffel grips but I do plan on doing a roundup of the three grips I still have as a YouTube video in the next couple weeks.

@Sniperboy the grips are certainly golden in color. They may tarnish or otherwise dull but new they are a brilliant shiny gold. The silver controls seem to be hard chromed, not painted. I hope they keep their finish better than the blued ones on my other Tanfos. @MemphisMechanic I didn't measure the pull on camera, but it is right at 3lbs at the heaviest. I'm not satisfied and will be working on it this week to get it to 2# or less. I didn't go into very much detail in this video so I could have a series with more detailed focused discussion on specific aspects. My next one should be on the magwell and how it works, why you would want a Henning one, and some of the issues you might encounter when fitting it and how to fix them. I'm testing a fix I came up with for the magwell moving and won't be filming a video until I know for sure that I fixed it. Spoiler alert: Tanfoglio has a serious problem in holding their guns to some kind of dimensional standard. That makes hand fitting necessary for most parts if you want the best results. Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad my videos are useful.

I will make that trade. My Stock 3 smaller ambitious for a Limited or Lim Pro biggie ambi. PM me and we can swap.

I plan on modifying my Limited's extended thumb safety so that it does not dig into the top of my hand when shooting left handed. Basically I want it to be like one of the excellent xx11 type safeties with a taper providing clearance for the knuckle. As it comes, the safety is square and sharp at the bottom.