chp5

+ 1 The trigger pull article is excellent. I've often doubted the claimed trigger pull weights of some DIY jobs.

True, true . . . I will drop the grains and chrono sometime soon.

I also load my Glock rounds to 1.125 OAL.

Hi Bill and welcome to the forum. I use a 180 Zero under 4.7 grains of Titegroup - but that's out of a Glock 22. I get about a 171-173 PF depending on the chrono. I may drop the charge, but I hate changing loads . . . Titegroup seems to be a popular powder for 40 major. You can back off a few grains with the Glock 35 - about 4.3-4.4 grains should get you there with Titegroup. I've never tried Universal Clays, but do a search. You should find a lot of info on a 40 major load for Glocks.

I recently took a 1/2 day private lesson from Dave Sevigney. Excellent.

How did that Weaver vs Isoseles thing wind up anyway? BTW - it was good to see you at the USPSA Cherokee match a few months back.

Well said Joe.

How's the battery life and light birghtness? Thx.

Wow! Those are extemely harsh words about a man. I sincerely hope you know these events as FIRST HAND FACTS (as compared to someone telling you about it) before making these conclusions and posting them on a public forum.

Eric - How do you make sure you open the rear notch evenly? Thanks.

John, What type and size bit do you use? Thanks. Cy

I have a drill press, but how do you hold and anchor the trigger bar so you can drill the hole?

nevermind

I'll respond to two of your comments: 1. Magwell. Most people like a heavy magwell. They feel it puts weight in the frame and gives the gun a better feel in recoil. Recoil is a very subjective subject. I like an aluminum magwell or no mag well. Play around and see what works for you. 2. The Glock Finger. Get used to it - it comes with shooting Glocks. I have a callus/calcium deposit in the same place from Glocks. If you don't use the 35 for Production, then thin and contour the underside of the trigger guard. It helps a lot. That mod is illegal for Production - unless you're shooting at the World Shoot Good luck.

+1 Thanks.

I always download by 1. Maybe I need a new recoil spring. How long should a stock spring last?

Thanks Matt and eerw. Cy

D.Carden, I agree with SRT Driver and Kevin: try putting more finger on the trigger. When shooting a 1911, I use the end of the pad of the trigger finger. For revolvers, I use the junction between the first and second pad of the trigger finger. Glock finger placement is somewhere in between the 1911 and revolver. You also discussed getting a trigger stop on your Glock. On his web site, the Burner suggests that a trigger stop that only allows limited overtravel can CAUSE you to shoot to the left. I suggest you read that blurb. I'm confident you'll work through this issue. Good luck.

Good post Bruce.

+1!

Thanks guys. SRT - I got 1040 out of my G17 with 4.0. Maybe I should bump it to 4.2 as well. What OAL do you use? SRT - how does your load compare to a 147 grain load? It seems like that's the most common load, but I've never shot the 147. vluc - good advice!!

I had some 125 Zeros laying around, so I worked up a Production load in 9mm with 4.0 grains of Titegroup. The load has good accuracy and I like how it feels. I chrono'd it today and it came up right at a 130 PF. I've not shot any poppers with it. Any opinions on whether it's good enough for heavy steel? Thanks.

Thanks Mike!

My second “how to” revolver question I may just have to bust out my S&W model 19 for a match sometime and let the good revolver shooters use me as a door mat Anyway, I picked up an old S&W model 37. I really like this little revolver! However, the trigger is serrated and sharp on the edges. After a little dry fire, I got a blister on my trigger finger. Is there an easy way to smooth out the trigger face and edges with my trusty Dremel? Also, is taking the side plate off a J frame the same as a K frame? Thanks! Cy

It's hard to tell if it's sturdy without handling it. For $17.50 it may be worth a try.