Doc Hunter

Like Sarge says, I run two 1050s, one set for Large, the other set for Small. Everything, all the time get swaged. Yes they are expensive - but time is money, and its done right the first time around.

Yes call Dillion.

Well this is going on 5 months. I would hope the OP would provide an update.

Do your ipsc pads have the take down hole in the middle of the pad?

Well finally got to call Dawson's. They don't make a grip tape for the standard STI 2011 mags - go figure. They suggested I try the grip tape for the XD with the take down hole in the center. Ordered some - I'll report back.

Firing pin was just the wrong way round.

Zachvu, I've seen some primers pop the middle out leaving a ring inside the pocket, so yes that can happen. It is usually a case (old empty case) that has been wet and the moisture over time degrades the primer and it falls apart or causes a galvanic reaction causing the outer portion of the primer to fuse with the case pocket then only the middle punches out. If you feel excessive force at the swage station stop and see what's up. I learned the hard way.

Never heard of a pin breaking on media.

Are you SURE your powder scale and your Chrono are accurate?

Sauernut, get some hose extension and put the VAC as far away as you can. I've got mine in another room. However, the sucking sound at the die is also kind of loud. But, moving the VAC does help. Also, with it so loud, if you cannot see the light on the Dillion power supply, check that its is actually on. You will not hear it over the VAC. Just put your hand on the motor to feel it is really running. Don't ask how I learned this little piece of wisdom.

Yea, that's where the Giraud really stands out. But it is not an inexpensive machine.

Try some graphite on the moving parts.

Follow the posted data. You may need a slower powder to get where you want to be.

Well I don't have a lot of use or need for a Little Crow, but I hope someone will give a description of this attributes - or not. Does the thing bevel the inside and outside of the case mouth? That is one area that the Dillion falls short, and needs some type of extra step or you are left with a sharp square case mouth.

I'm trying to figure out which grip tape to order for the "Standard" 2011 base pad. Not the Dawson SNL. I'm using the .300 extended pads which need the hole in the take down hole in the Grip Tape. I don't see anything on the Dawson WEB site. Any help? Thank you.

I've found that I need more room around my 550s than I do around the 1050s. With the cases being feed from above the machine, and the bullet tray over the collection bin. The 1050 for all of its mass, seems to need less room to actually operate. I do agree that, if you can, put it on the left of the bench, and over a leg will not hurt either. Reducing any excess vibration is a goal.

Blue Jacket - buy once, cry once. But, that depends on if you load lots of other calibers. I've never used the Little Crow. I use a couple of Giraud Power Trimmers for calibers I use less frequently, and larger 338 Lapua that will not fit in the Dillion. If you load a lot of 5.56 or 7.62, then the Dillion is great for that. You can collect a bunch of brass, then hit it all at once. Smaller batches, and a lot of switching calibers, then you could look at other options. The 1200 is a great product though.

Bullets make really poor expanders. It is the condition of the bullet as it leaves the rifle that is important. Damage it and you have wasted your time and money. It is the "ID" of the case neck that is important NOT the "OD" - the "ID" is where the bullet lives. That needs to be Round, Straight, Consistent in length, and its grip on the bullet must be consistent. The size and condition of the neck "ID" is considerably more important for accuracy than the "OD".. Even the idea of neck turning, sets itself off of the "ID" of the case neck. The idea being to true the "OD" consistent with the geometry of the neck "ID".. Many people (including me) even anneal the case mouth every loading to maintain a consistent level of "pull" for the bullet. Trim your cases every time and stop worrying about case stretch. They are going to stretch anyway so get over it. I would suggest that you do some reading and experimenting with the accuracy of your loads. Not 3 shot groups either - they are a joke. And at distance. You can produce excellent accurate ammunition from progressive techniques - but you cannot just slam it together. Now if you are only interested in mixed brass "Ball" ammo type accuracy that's fine. If you want better ammo - shortcuts are a fail. Most people start reloading to save money - and that's great. Sooner or later, they want better and better ammunition. That means changes in technique, improved components and the time invested. I shoot regularly out past 1K. I use ammo that is mostly produced using semi-progressive techniques. Works!

Enough crimp?

An expander or mandrel needs to be AFTER the 1200 trimmer, not before it.

Like others I check when I spread them out to lube them. Also, when trimming, as I trim every time.

I had one a few years back. Learned some newly made up adult language! Was 9mm, mixed range brass. CCI primers. Traced to a non-ejected spent primer. RULE - if it don't feel right STOP, clear the shell plate and figure out what's up. Some 9mm have VERY small flash holes and the primer de-caper may not hit them. I've gone to a LEE sizer (sorry Dillion) and that's stopped most of the non-de-caped cased from sneaking through in 9mm. Although I've still had a small flash hole grab the de-capping pin and pull the pin out of the de-capping rod - that will hose you up as well. Adjusting the swager to hit the primer pocket a little harder also helps with unknown range brass. I now run two 1050s one with large and the other small primer setups. Keeps adjustments to a minimum not having to keep changing the priming system in and out. I still HATE Sellier and Belleot (sp) cases. It takes a higher level of attention, and a slower rate to load 9mm unknown mixed range brass. I keep a pair of good tweezers handy and q-tips/pipe cleaners to clean the primer "dust" around at all times. The Dillion system is a safe system - all force was straight up. I was not hurt. The plastic primer push rod did stick in the ceiling and my ears rang a bit. Dillion was great replacing parts! I'll buy another 1050 soon. If you think that it cannot happen to you - well good luck with that. Your the one holding the handle.

Check the gas block for leaks. I had a similar problem, drove me nuts. Changed the gas block out of frustration - fixed. Good with all ammo, all the time.

If you have that much "range brass" you will need the swager. There are others on the market - but the Dillion rocks!

Seems a bit too slow.