Doc Hunter

FWIW, I have only used Dillion case lube - never had any sizing issues. I did remember that one-shot had some special requirements - that's why I mentioned it. I would suggest that you try the Dillion lube and see if you spend more time loading/shooting and less time sending dies back and forth.

Did you clean the die and treat it with one-shot before you started sizing?

I have one - it rocks. Don't think twice. Well engineered and a solid build! Super easy caliber change.

Excellent post!

^ This

Sounds like you have reliability issues when you use it.

Don't use the FCD with lead bullets, or soft core coated bullets. Problem solved.

Trim every time - then sort by brand.

Call Dillion and ask. They are great folks.

OK, for really messed up brass that's fine. I would not do all the brass that way though. Also, some needle nose pliers work wonders on crushed necks - just get them close the die will do the rest. If they are really crushed you don't want them.

Popo, I would agree. Crimps destroy many a good bullet before it even has a chance.

You really do not need to do that, you are only over-working the brass. The trimmer die will quickly shape the neck round. Expanded after the trimmer - I do it. That is where it matters.

Do a search - there is a lot on this.

Throw the wads in a plastic bag and shake them with a little graphite.

Do all case prep off of the press.

Hold the handle down a little longer and give the brass some time to move under the tool.

If the bullet does not have a crimp groove - don't crimp it.

I my experience plated bullets are a fail.

NO! Is the die set past that? Ok, do this. Loosen the die so it will go up and down. Raise the RAM and adjust the die down until it touches the shell holder. THEN, lower the ram slightly and lower the die. When you raise the ram it should be pushing HARD on the bottom of the die, and then it will "roll over" - go to its full length stroke. This will take any spring out of the press. The RAM should not just be touching the shell holder for this operation. The RAM must be pushing hard on the bottom of the die, then rolling over to full stroke. You will understand after you play with it some. You might even try and find a you tube video on how to do it. Try this - it should solve the problem.

Is the press rolling over on the base of the die?

Use the Sinclair Expanding Mandrel or the Lyman "M" die. The "M" die can be set to flare if you want it. The Sinclair cannot. Either is way better than doing a expander ball.

Use a full length sizer! Also, try a different shell holder. Sometimes shell holders differ in their specs. and the case is not fully getting into the die. I process thousands of pieces of 308 LC. What press are you using? Be sure it is "Camming over" to get the max amount of push on the case. You cannot baby LC brass on its first sizing. You have to slap it around and make it yours. After that, you can take it to dinner.

When you load - rifle. Loose the expander "button" idea and die. Add a Lyman "M" die to station #1. It will gently open the case neck, and if you want (more adjustment down) it will also gently (damn little) flare the case mouth (greatly helps with flat based bullets). If you do this the neck will be straight, and the bullet will enter straight. Bullets make damn poor sizers. Damaging the bullet wastes your time and components. The rotational forces on a bullet by the rifling is great. If you tear the jacket, especially a match bullet jacket, with the rough edge of a case mouth, your bullet does not stand a chance. The die is cheap.

I also anneal all my brass. The Giraud annealing machine makes it too easy. Case life will likely be extended. But that's not the reason for doing it. Accuracy is. Consistent neck tension (the case is the platform to launch the bullet, and the neck is the most important part of the case). There is also the greatly added benefit with hard 7.62 LC brass than it reduces the strain and pain of its first sizing. Trimming is also easier as the brass is softer. I did it by hand for many years - now with the machine, for me, there is no excuse not too. Warning - if you decide to try it, learn about the technique. There is an art to it, and you must know what you are doing. This is just one of many advanced techniques for precision rifle ammunition. You will have to decide for yourself if it is worth the time. At extended ranges, I can absolutely see the results on the target face. So, for me its a no brainer. Accuracy!

Ok, first lube the crap out of it. Then run each piece through the die TWICE. Pause each time at the top of the stroke for a moment to let the brass move in the die. You will only have to do this the first time you size it. Use a correct tool to measure the headspace and set the die accordingly. March on!