Luv2rideWV

I don't like the flip/catch thing; we have a lot of newer shooters, too. Yesterday,one guy caught the round as it was flying by his head and over his shoulder, so you know the muzzle, while pointed downrange, was jerking around a lot. Most of the flip/catch guys I've seen are holding up progress. Focus is not on the task at hand. The RO is waiting for the shooter to finish playing with the ejected round and the ejected magazine that he is attempting to place back in the magazine carrier. So the shooter has three different things in his hands; two things - magazine and round - have to be stored before he can get back to the business at hand of showing clear and holstering. Nothing can be done. The time cannot be given to the scorekeeper. The "range clear" command is delayed. The RO is wasting time while the gun is still not cleared. I say drop the magazine on the ground; eject the round; show clear and holster so that everyone can resume doing their jobs; pick up your round and magazine; catch up with the RO as he is scoring.

There is a great drill that Rob Leatham does on steel. Look for it on YouTube. He takes a 2/3 scale USPSA target made of steel and sets a par time. Start by shooting a shot in that par time. Notice how nice and centered the shot is. Using the same par time, fire two shots. Keep adding an additional shot to the same par time until you see your group start to open - each time firing one more shot than before. This is the way you find your limits of control. Remember how big an A-zone is, so this gives you some idea regarding how fast you can afford to shoot. If the group opens up too much, slow down. This sport rewards speed, accuracy, and power. A tight pair of A-zone hits is worth just as much as two A-zone hits that are barely in the A-zone. My personal goal is to shoot about 80% A-zone hits. Any worse than that means I'm going too fast. All A-zone hits means I'm going too slow. Also, since I shoot revolver, I approach every stage as though it is Virginia count. Good luck.

I'll bet everyone, probably, slaps the trigger, but the best way to teach is, probably, to teach us to ride the sear - only letting the trigger go forward enough to reset. I agree with an above post that a finger going that fast probably does leave the face of the trigger upon reset. IMO, this is one of those deals where the common methods of teaching produce results that actually vary from the reality of what we do. However, it doesn't mean the old methods are bad. I think "riding the sear" is important as an instructional technique in order to attain better results than we would have otherwise. Just because slow motion video shows the finger lifts off the trigger doesn't mean that you should not strive to ride the sear.

With the Sith, there are always two - the Master and the Apprentice - no more - no less. Sorry - I couldn't help it. FWIW, my buddy has shot USPSA and reloaded since the 80's. He talked to me and hooked me up with a press. I pretty much read the reloading manual and asked questions as necessary. Some good load data can be had on this forum, too, because we are all pursuing the same goals with similar equipment. The ability to read and follow instruction is critical. Ask questions when you need it. I never really had a mentor to sit down at the bench with. I have reloaded for about two years now, so I doubt anyone wants my help (I've offered). I keep it simple and have only reloaded for my 45 ACP, 38 SPL, and 44 SPL. Without the reloading, I could not afford to shoot as much as I do, and reloading gives me ammo that meets my needs more perfectly.

You'll need a holster that covers the trigger guard. If you are lacking equipment, you might want to hold off on making a purchase until you go to a match and actually see what you need. Usually someone won't mind letting a new person borrow mag pouches or some needed item. Put your pistol in a rug/case (EMPTY!). Get a bag to carry all your stuff in. Show up and tell them you are a new guy. They will probably make you attend a briefing and might hook you up with someone who is more experienced to go with. Put your belt/holster/mag pouches on wherever everyone else is; find the safety area; take your pistol rug to the safety area to play with gun/work on gun/show gun to buddy/HOLSTER GUN; never have ammo at the safety area. Plan on having at least 10% more ammo than what is called for. By the RO's command at the firing line - or - at the safety area are the only places you may handle the gun. Also, USPSA ranges will be cold, so I wouldn't even carry concealed. Seek out videos and individual instruction from an "old" guy to show you how to safely draw and reload. Learn about the 180 degree rule. Don't sweep any part of your body with the muzzle. Do not put your finger in the trigger well unless sights are on target. Learn how we move while keeping the muzzle downrange. The goal for the first matches are to adhere to the above mentioned rules and have fun! My goal at my first match was to just not get disqualified! Also, do not worry about speed; worry about safety and getting your A's.

Carmoney and the Toolguy are awesome. Better advice cannot be had. My 625's trigger is/was somewhere around 6.25 pounds. At that time, it still had the hammer spur. I used Jerry's video, lighter rebound spring, and the factory spring that was bent to add some additional arch. I suggest using Jerry's video and adhering to the advice mentioned above by these two guys. My primers are seated by hand; also, you have to use Federal. The only thing I'm not sure someone has mentioned is that you'll want to avoid going too light with the rebound spring; lighten the pull with the main spring and then try lighter rebound springs; if you go too light on the rebound spring in relation to everything else, it feels funky, and you might not get the trigger return you want; you will not get it perfect on the first or second tries - tinker with it! Have fun and good luck!

+1 on the above; it's inexpensive and works great; I have several for various guns, and they are among my most used holsters. I also have a Galco Combat Master (pancake holster) that is great for carrying. It conceals well, holds the gun close to the body, covers the barrel, is comfortable, and is probably the best option for concealing a large revolver. If it is in stock, Opticsplanet is a good place to get it. IMO, you get a lot of holster with an attractive finish for the money with Galco. I've never had one of the Summer Special holsters, but a 4" GP-100 is a lot of gun to shove in your pants.

I have shot the 2012 Single Stack Nationals and have been shooting a couple of years now. Actually, 2012 was the year I beat Rob Leatham (that is a joke - he got disqualified that year). Also, I got my picture taken with the Great One that year, too. I consider myself a beginner. Anyway, I too thought about the cleats. Long story short - I just wore a tennis shoe with a more aggressive outdoor sole. My reasoning was that I would get more use out of shoes that can be worn everywhere. So far, this approach has worked. If you can sprint and hustle like my 19-year-old son playing baseball, you might be able to benefit from the extra traction. You need to ask yourself if you would benefit from the extra traction.

Thanks to all. To summarize, yes, it is worth it to go shorter. Just buy SC brass because I am short on time, too. You guys rock!

10-4; I appreciate the response; wasn't sure if this was a tangible difference or a more subjective thing. What I'm actually doing is some due diligence prior to purchasing the 627. I've been talking myself into it for a while. I have about 5 gallons of 38 Spl. brass in the basement; this is just another cost to work into the equation.

Ok, so tell me how much of an advantage would I get by cutting down the Special brass or buying the SC brass for the 627? Is it worth the effort for a lowly B class shooter, like me? Would it make a measureable difference in my reloads?

This post has inspired me to make yet another mess in my wife's house. When I'm brave enough to sacrifice my set of JM grips and try it, I'll post the results.

My next purchase will be the Blade Tech and a stiff competition belt. Since I started on a budget, I currently use a cheaper concealed carry-type belt that has a stiffener in it and a Safariland Custom Fit Paddle Holster. That Safariland holster rides very securely, is cheap on OpticsPlanet or even Amazon, and it does double duty as a carry or field holster or around the house. I use it with my 625PC and my 629, and it gets used often.

The manufacturer probably issues a blanket statement against using grease because it can cause tightly fitted guns to malfunction, and cold temperatures can make grease thicken and slow the gun down (malfunction). However, if you want to try it, give it a shot. In your gun and environment, it may work just fine. I'm no expert, but you will find that one lubricant cannot do everything you want it to. Grease is thick and tends to stay put. Some oils are heavy, too, and tend to stay put. I like lighter oils for my revolvers because so as not to gum up the internals (revolvers don't need to be taken apart very often at all). Some oils have a tendency to creep and travel. My prescription gun oil (50/50 STP Engine Oil Treatment and Marvel Mystery Oil) is what I like on my 1911 because it stays where I put it. A great variety of things will work for you if you use them properly.

There are good books out there to help with dry fire; the title escapes me, but the one by Anderson is great. Also, get some coaching from someone who is technically proficient or, at least, buy an instructional DVD. The reason is that you don't want to make bad habits worse by practicing them during dry fire. Also, don't worry about the age; the fast guy at my club is in his 60's. It surprised me when my new card arrived and said "B" for Revolver. That has inspired me to start practicing again. I would love to see "M" someday, but I believe it is within me to at least be an "A" class shooter. Where we don't have a lot of revolver shooters, I compare my scores to the overall results or Productions division just to have some motivation.

Thank you all for the assistance.

Nope, I cranked the strain screw down tightly both times. As for the leaf spring used as the main spring in a revolver, if you bend the spring to give it more of a curve, you are reducing the trigger pull. If you straighten that spring out some, you are increasing the trigger pull. So the bountybunter may be a little backwards on his assumptions regarding increasing or decreasing the trigger pull by bending springs. I was actually asking a question about whether, or not, a leaf spring can lose some of its arch when it is no longer under compression. Instead, everyone wants to tell me it is the strain screw. I had previously asked this question in the revolver forum, too. The question is: Can a leaf spring lose some of its arch when it is no longer under compression?

Just an update...We had our first sanctioned match Sunday. We were actually able to upload our classifier report to the USPSA via Practiscore. Let me say how easy this whole process has become. Some guys even hung around to find out the results before leaving; we uploaded to the Practiscore site when I got home; then we uploaded to the USPSA on Monday. We had shooters look at the review of the score before allowing targets to be pasted (not everyone was interested in reviewing their scores). Everyone was receptive and appreciative of the speed for which results are available. We are very pleased. Wish I had completely went electronic long ago.

I agree with the above post. I'll bet it was a financial decision.

Here is a question about leaf springs: I have a S&W revolver that had the main spring arched in order to reduce the trigger pull. After a year or so, I disassemble the gun, and upon reassembly the trigger pull seems a tiny bit heavier. Nothing was changed that would/could affect trigger pull. THEREFORE, CAN A LEAF SPRING (MAIN SPRING) LOSE SOME OF ITS ARCH WHEN IT IS REMOVED FROM THE REVOLVER?

Forgive me for opening this back up, but didn't there used to be a division like this in IPSC? The guns looked like Production guns with tiny red dot optics? They did away with the division a year or two ago because of low participation? As far as it goes, I'm seeing a couple of guys at local matches take modified Glocks or M&P's with a small optics and extended magazines and shoot in Open for the fun of it. I think these are guns built for tactical purposes or for actual carry use, and these guys would have built them anyway. I think it is the wave of the future, and we will eventually see more carry guns with optics.

We are a brand new USPSA club that has been holding "outlaw" action matches for about two years. We have always used paper scoring, too. We are having our first official USPSA match this weekend, and a tech savvy club member is helping us go electronic with iPads and Practiscore. NO PAPER SCORE SHEETS!!! AMEN!!! Our CRO/old guy (fast old guy who can beat us all) is asking what you do when a shooter wants to confirm a score, dispute a score, want to sign a score sheet like at a bigger match, or how do you handle the situation when a shooter claims there was a mistake after you leave the stage? Sorry if any of these are silly questions.

I do not shoot IDPA. However, revolver is what I shoot in USPSA and what I carry all the time. Revolvers just seem to find their way to my gun safe. I like the 686 because it feels like a more robust firearm. The K-frame guns always seemed a little light when/if you shoot much magnum ammo. Sometimes I carry a 2 1/2" 686; it would be tempting to use were I to try IDPA. As far as gaming it, the heavier gun (assuming it balances well) will be the better competition gun. If you have a big match where you shoot 250 rounds, the heavier gun with a nice set of grips is less painful. Either will work fine for your stated purpose. Either are more accurate than you or I. You would need a pistol rest and a large assortment of ammo to make a determination as to which one is more accurate, and even then the difference may be attributable to production variances rather then the inherent benefits of one model over the other. Pick the one you like. The best thing would be to shoot a match with one of each (test drive) because sometimes our perception in the gun store is a little different than what it feels like to actually shoot the thing. However, you cannot go wrong with either - until you second guess yourself.

I read the word "interpretation" somewhere above, and it boils down to that. A gamer could create something a little better than anything you could buy off the shelf, and a guy like me would have a hard proving or disproving the legitimacy of it. Then, if the division turned into an arms race, the little guy (like me) would become discouraged because he is operating with obsolete equipment. I shoot 6-shot major in Revolver division, and the inclusion of the 8-shot minor eliminates a few reloads during a match, so I feel like I'm shooting somewhat obsolete equipment because a shooter of equal skill will beat me over the course of a match solely based upon his equipment, so I can imagine how a guy who can only afford a factory gun would feel when he no longer had a chance of being competitive against a shooter of equal or lesser skill just because of equipment. The idea of a Production class is pretty cool. It lowers the price of entry into our game. It allows people to participate who otherwise wouldn't. It is kind of an "every man's" class. However - what do I know - I've never shot Production.

Yep, it is one of the wide mim triggers, and the stirrup is in correctly. BTW, the pull isn't A LOT heavier; but it did feel slightly heavier. I think Bubber's hypothesis' sounded pretty reasonable. Yea, it is hard to trouble shoot via the internet. I'm certain it is back together correctly. I also cleaned it and put a few drops of oil on the internals, so, maybe, something is dryer than it was before? Also, it could be that my grip is unencumbered by the spur on the hammer, and this allows me to grip it higher more consistently; I hadn't thought of that until Bubber said it.