mike g35

I think Bobby Carver builds a XDm slide racker.

STI trubor 9mm major soon to be a custom 2011 from Blackdog Gunworks still in 9mm major.

I tested the trigger pull on a friends M&P with the entire competition kit from Apex and his trigger pull was 1# 9oz. heavier than the trigger pull on my Gen 4 G34. I don't have my M&P w/ CAEK anymore so you may be right, probably are. But the TTI is still a great Glock trigger IMO. I gauged my trigger pull after reading your post, looks like its right around 3.5#. I'll take it. I' have competed with a Glock and an M&P. the M&P is nice but I have had intermittent reliability issues with them, my Glock just runs and runs. And the reset on the G34 (w/ the new kit) is far better than my M&P ever thought of being. Just my perspective though.

I just installed the TTI connector kit in my 34. I guess experiences must vary with these triggers because the TTI is hands down the best feeling Glock trigger I've ever felt. It rivals an M&P with an Apex CAEK when it comes to lightness and it has a much MUCH better reset. Very good feeling trigger for a Glock. There is some pre-travel but less than a stock G34 and buy the kit gave me the shortest lightest trigger from the reset I e ever personally messed with. I also installed the TTI sights and I was very happy with them as well. My impression so far of the Glock stuff from TTI is pretty favorable. The best part is I didn't have to spend $250-350 on the trigger, just 20 minutes and a dab of grease with a little do it yourself know how and my new production guns trigger is good to go.

I decided to hold off on the striker and forget the plunger. I'm going to test my loads with what I've ordered for the gun already and if I feel there's a need I may buy a ZEV striker. I use federal primers in all my guns, I've never had an issue with light strikes using those primers.

I'm running 7.4gr of WAC at 1.170 with a 124gr MG CMJ. Through my CED chrono I'm making 176 (STI Trubor). Anything under 7.2 seems like its not working the comp all that well IMO. Maybe I'm picky though, I've already started playing with a 115gr load using 8.6-9gr of HS6 to work the comp even more.

I'm no GM, I'm a C class (soon B class if things keep up the way they have been) open shooter but I do have a little advice for you. RELAX. I can literally see the tension as you shoot. Work on "flowing" through the stage. This is a little hard to explain but it seems like you're thinking about every little thing. Relax and let yourself go. Don't think about negatives, don't think about positives, don't think about anything, just be "in the moment".

Will do. I have to admit I'm pretty picky about my triggers so its gonna take alot for this to impress me. But you never know if you don't try.

I've have never used anything other than a stock striker and safety plunger in a Glock. Are the lighter skeletonized and titanium strikers worth the cash? What about the titanium safety plunger? I understand faster lock time with the lighter strikers but can you really tell any difference? What about the plungers? Are there more advantages to these lighter parts than I'm aware of?

I just ordered one of these connectors and some TTI sights for my new G34. I've read good and bad reviews but I figured it was worth a shot. I also ordered an extended guiderod from Carver and some 15# Wolff springs. I know the guiderod and spring work well with my loads but I've never played with the TTi stuff before. I'll report back with my first impressions.

That is all kinds of badass. Nice gun!!!

I like my 9's. They run great and they're cheap to shoot. I don't want to go through a stage picking up brass after shooting.

If you're TruBor doesn't have any holes and your wanting to use a thumbrest a DAA/Quinn III would be worth looking into.

I like a clean looking slide, kind of like an Infinity. But i also like the look of slide cuts as long as the gun doesnt look chopped to pieces. This is the slide that will be on my new open gun that Brad at Blackdog Gunworks is building for me. Flat topped, rear swoop, lightening cuts that get gradually larger as they travel back on the slide, zig racker installed and no serrations. The slide will be black, the P/T frame will be black, and the grip will be black. All the controls will be polished. So I guess if you asked me what looks best I'd have to say it doesn't exist yet, but it will soon.

A few months ago I bought a STI TruBor and a STI Matchmaster to test the same thing. Without a long drawn out explanation I can tell you I already sold the MM and I used the money to buy a custom full size (should be here soon). For me, the full size seemed to "feel" best. And it definitely ran flatter with less felt recoil. The gun I'm having built will have a better barrel and comp and a lightened slide. I firmly believe this is the way to go. The only advantages I saw with the MM (faster slide) will be quickly attained by lightening the slide on a full size gun. I do prefer a little more weight up front though, so you may not feel the same as I do.

Thanks for this explanation!!! I picked up 1000 CCI SRP yesterday and I'm planning to run some test loads with them later today. My 2011 hasn't failed to set off any SPP's and I've used all the major brands. Hopefully this remains true with the SRP's.

No. Turning on my dot is part of my "on deck ritual". I check its brightness while making ready. Never had a CMore switch fail on me yet, I change batteries maybe once every 6 months.

LOL That's funny, don't care who you are that's funny!! LOLSo is Schuemann saying I shouldn't run my Otis down the barrel?

I use a Brazos Zig racker. No loctite required.

Exactly.

BLING!!! LOL

I've been at this two years. I was getting better but some illnesses and work knocked me out of the game for a bit. I am a C class open shooter, D limited and production. Of course the two majors I've shot this year (Battle in the Bluegrass (production) and the ProAm (limited)) I ended up winning my class (2nd and 3rd) in both so the D has not really hurt my feelings too much once the prizes are allocated . I'm probably more like an all around C, and that's fine with me. I know what it takes to get better, practice and shooting matches, but a man has to work too. I would never say I suck, I'm just continuing to learn at the speed I'm capable of learning at. Don't beat yourself up, this stuff is just for fun anyway. If you want to improve in this game the way is simple......shoot more.

I just had Blackdog Gunworks do a little work to my TruBor. For about $500 + the initial cash for the gun I have an open gun that has all the bells and whistles and it runs like a top. Planning on shooting this one a while. I can't see where a custom built gun will make me any better of a shooter. Am I planning on a custom build? Yeah, but I stick to my original statement, it won't make me a better shooter. Only practice and time at the range will do that.

It was very stable. Like I said the gun shot great, no issues. Now ask me if I'd trade the 2011 that I sold this one to buy for it. NOPE. LOL [/quoteI don't understand what your saying here. Are you saying you wish you would have kept the m&p over the 2011 gun? How does your new 2011 compare to the m&p. Are the 2011's night and day different to make them worth the $2000+ price difference? Simple answer....YES. They are night and day different. A 2011 running right with the right load is (IMO) 3x as good as the best Glock/ M&P / XDm open gun running under the same conditions. Ya can't beat that SA 1911 trigger.

I just got my first CZ, a 75B stainless. I've been reading alot of posts about load data and I've seen some guys say they have to load pretty short in their CZ's. I've also read about guys reaming their chambers to shoot 147's. Just wondered if you guys could elaborate on some of this and possibly share a decent 124gr load. Thanks.