GregJ

A few years ago I had a lot of squibs and soft loads after I switched to wet tumbling. My drying process was not adequate. I wound up splitting a barrel cause I didnt catch a squib. Ugh. If you dry with the primers in, the goop will tend to glue the primers in which causes other problems. I dont need shiny brass, so I switched back to media tumbling.

Currently loading BBI 125s at 1.100, mixed brass, crimp avg is .3765 (IIRC) Since mixed brass, this varies, but seems to average out. Been my target crimp for every type of bullet I have loaded for 9mm, including Zero RN 124s. The EGW gauge is a little tight. The crimp is supposed to be just a taper crimp, just enough to remove the bell. I like to see a very faint white line on the edge of the case mouth. Loading pistols and rifles aint the same - obviously. Pistol bullets use next tension and not crimp to prevent setback. Just make sure they plunk fine in your barrel, then go shoot them.

https://inleadwetrust.com/ Contact form link on top of page. Rob will hook you up. He is also present on the MPX Owners FB page.

Ran 100 rounds with a -25% set of recoil springs, and 100 rounds with a -13% set, no issues with either, couldnt tell any differences either, so leaving stock weight springs in.

Which recoil spring rate is everyone running? Stock? Reduced power? Mine is a GenII, has been stone reliable, Lancer handguard, ILWT ejector springs, TACOM buffer/spring, upgraded BCG from Sig. Been running stock recoil springs but thought I would play with some reduced rate springs to see how it runs with my CO 9mm loads (BBI 125 TC, 3.7gr Sport Pistol, 1.100 OAL, about 140PF). Thought I would see what others experience has been :cheers:

Two thoughts after watching your video. 1- after chambering the round, slowly pull bolt back, take a black marker and put a mark where the ejector is. Then line up the round with the bolt, to ensure the marks on the bullet/case are lined up with the sharp edge on the chamber. 2- I guess that bolt bounce back is normal for a blow back.

Agree with others, that corner is most likely what is causing your issue. Looks like my Kimber 1911 barrel when I started shooting SS many moons ago. It was doing same thing. After I smoothed that corner out, it fed like a champ. Making that transition smooth should not remove anything from the chamber support, or very minimal if any. Will be interesting to see what PSA says.

Suggest you put a light coat of Vaseline on the rubber seal. Makes it much easier to get the cap off, and to re-tighten it.

My main (510C) is zeroed at 20, and my offset (Venom) is 10-15. In reality, if I need to use the offset for farther distances, it will be more than close enough. I dont worry much about the holdover on either.

I would guess you are wet tumbling with the primer still in. This will cause the gunk in the primer to dry and basically "glue" the primer into the pocket. This will cause the issue you describe. I too ran into this while process brass on my AB driven 1050. For this, and a few other reasons, I gave up on wet tumbling and went back to the ole standard media tumbling.

Started shooting PCC again, 3rd match with my MPX in 6 mths. This range allows us to bag/unbag at the side berm. I normally take the covers off the Holosun 510C and Vortex Venom (hard rubber cover) and throw them into the bag, same side as the MPX. I was rocking and rolling with the MPX and set to place 1st or 2nd in PCC, until the last stage. Unloaded table start, mags on belt, hands on dots on wall. Beep, grabbed MPX, went to slap mag in, wouldnt go in!!! WTF?? Tried a couple of times, no go, my first thought was, "I know I removed the chamber flag?!?!?", as I always insert it down the magwell and not the chamber. Looked in the magwell, and there is the Vortex rubber cover!!!! Frick! Pulled it out, and proceed to totally toast the stage. Completely ruined me. Finished 3rd in PCC. Apparently when I put the MPX back in the bag, the magwell sat on the rubber cover. Lessons learned: - Keep the covers off, in a separate bag, and in the side pouch with the mags. - Get stronger mentally, dont let something stupid like this change my stage plan (easier said than done).

Listening now!! Awesome! Thanks.

1, Check to make sure the nut on top of the primer mag tube is barley finger tight. 2. When was the last time the blue tip on the primer mag tube was replaced? Might be worth replacing. 3. No more than a 45 case on top of primer of rod is needed. Too much weight can cause this. 4. Might try cleaning any gunk out of the primer tube mag. 5. As suggested, are you using RF100 to load the tubes? Do you know for sure the primers were loaded right side up?

Truth. Been using a U die for 45 and 9mm for years.

Welcome! Lots of matches in the area, USPSA, IDPA, SC, outlaw steel, etc.

Contact Red Hill Tactical ?

I asked my buddy at Red Stitch Tactical if he can make some up. Looks like it would be a great tool to have for setup/takedown.

Wet tumbling removes all powder burn residue, which ask as a lube. Take 100 or so cases, dry tumble them, and see if same problem happens with them.

I have the spare motor, but the dremel works so much better, and dont have to worry about batteries.

I was very interested in this, but so far my PAL filler (using a dremel tool for vibration) works quite well. Still watching this thread to see how it performs.

This is very odd, I measured a bunch of BBI 125CN, which are supposed to be .356. They all measured .3550 - .3554 WTH?

Currently shooting BBI 125s CN in my CZ S2/CO (75 backup) and my Sig MPX. I will probably be switching over to Blue Bullets soon. Two questions: - BBI are .356, Blues are .355 with option for .356. Any reason for special ordering the .356 from Blue Bullets? Or stick with the .355? - Given the above firearms, which bullet profile with the Blue Bullets, RN or TC?

Running with finger on trigger outside of shooting area. Edit: Noticed this was SCSA, which I know nothing about, so disregard.

Quick and easy test. Take 2-300 pieces of brass, and dry tumble them, then load them up and shoot them. No other changes to your process. If they all shoot fine, you know your answer.

I agree with this. Some time ago I tried wet tumbling with SS pins, with the primers in. I thought I had air dried them long enough (week or so), but I had a LOT of misfires, weak loads, etc. I even had a squib, didnt realize it, and would up ruining a barrel and bushing. Wet tumbling with primers in requires a very good drying protocol. I started using a FA brass hydrator/dryer for 90 min and the issue went away. However, I did have another issue due to wet tumbling with the primers in, the primer residue will tend to glue the primers in, which makes them very difficult to get out. In my case, I process my brass on an AB driven 1050, and was getting a LOT of primer pull backs. Went back to media tumbling and the pull backs almost completely eliminated.