GregJ

My RCBS Chargemaster 1500 scale is very consistent, as verified against my RCBS 505 beam scale. The powder dispenser however is not so accurate.

I cant speak for IDPA CO, but my S2 with CZC RDS cut and a DPP, to make USPSA CO weight I changed the guide rod to a poly rod, and put on the LW LOK palm swell grips. I have since switched to an SRO, and it is .3 gr lighter. The big benefit of the CZC RDS system is obviously to give the owner the flexibility to use different optics. Also, the way they cut the slide for the plate, it is a press in fit - sideways like a sight - as there are lips milled front (and rear I think) that secures the plate. The extractor pin also goes through the plate. And it has two #6 (IIRC) screws locktighted down to secure the plate. The plate is not going to get loose. Period.

Great info all, much appreciated!

I use ear plugs along with my electronic ear pro, and find my ear pro hits the PCC stock. What electronic ear muffs have y'all found that do not hit the stock and interfere with your cheek weld?

Cool. Strongly suggest putting new key in. They are cheap, and you already have it on hand, no sense in not using it. RE the pawl, there are hardened pawls out there that last longer than the Dillon pawl. Good luck!

Grinding a flat wedge into the pin tip, and polishing it helps a lot. Also, put a small vac on the primer tube. I have the primer tube running into a small 1 gal paint bucket, and a HD Bucket Head vac running into the same bucket. The VAC helps to suck the old primer off, and they stay trapped into the 1 gal pain bucket. Sealing around the primer chute helps increase the vac pressure.

This ^^^^

Cool. Message me if you have any questions. Good luck in your choice.

Congrats! And welcome to the party. Love my CZs. TIP: I started CO with a Phantom, and had to learn not to rest my strong side thumb too heavily on the decocker, as it would prevent the hammer from striking the firing pin. Tough to relearn as I shot 1911/SS for years prior. You might want to check your model and see if it does the same thing. You may have to reprogram your grip. Have fun, and enjoy.

I've had mine for over 2 years, absolutely no regrets!!! I got mine through https://immortobot.com/ . Also join the Ammobot facebook page, you dont have to supply serial number or other BS to join. The support from both Jason (AB) and Mark (Immortobot), as well from other members is absolutely top notch. I sent Jason/AB a message with a question/issue on Easter night, fully expecting not to get a reply until the next day or later. He responded within the hour!!!! You cannot beat their support. Period. Also, I think the latest REV3 runs much faster than the M7. I have a REV2, and can process brass at about 3K cases per hour, and load 9minor, with jacketed bullets about 2800 rounds per hour. There are more sensors available for the AB, and they work great.

Another vote for the regular MBF. I shoot/load 20-30K a year, and reload on an Ammo Bot driven 1050, no problems keeping up.

Sport Pistol. Works great. Less powder for same HF/velocity as W231. Burns cleaner than W231 too.

Correct. Not that big an issue to take apart. Probably a good time for a deep clean anyway. Suggest you go ahead and order a couple of keys from Dillon. I suspect the crank shaft (11061) and the arm (11062) are fine. Clean and re-grease the bearings (11008), all 3. You can put red loctite on the new key and set it into the keyway on the shaft, let it sit over night, then put blue loctite (243) on the top of the key and the keyway on the arm (11062). Just be careful to clean up any excess and not let it get into the bearing. And obviously clean the metal surfaces before applying the loctite. My 1050 is automated (Ammo Bot), and the above has been working very well since I did it last winter.

I use a timer for my tumbler, usually 90 min. Allows me to turn it on when I go to bed, go to work, etc, never have to worry about it.

Watch the crank shaft and arm at the top of the stroke. Are you getting play here? IOW, the crank shaft is moving but the arm is not? Could be the key or keyway is worn. I have replaced my key and blue loctited the crank shaft and key to eliminate this play in mine.

510 primary, Venom on 45*.

Because shooing 9Minor, it's not worth picking up a 9Major by mistake thinking it's mine. I try to catch it, if not, and I know exactly where it dropped, fine, otherwise, nope.

Currently running 3.7gr SP under 125gr BBI @1.100 making 128-130PF, in a Shadow 2.

Or a backup gun (complete with dot), and maybe one extra dot.

I ran 2 DPPs 2.5 for a couple of years. First one lasted all the first year with no issues, then it started acting up. Between the two they have been to Leupold 4 times, all for the shifting contact. I currently am running the SRO 2.5 since June, about 6K rounds so far (lots of dry fire), no issues. The DPP died on me (shifted contact) in the am of the first day of a 2 day training clinic - that was my last straw. As stated, both have their pluses and minuses, but overall I think the SRO is a little better. - Changing the battery on the SRO is a PITA. I hate those screw on caps. A little Vaseline on the rubber o-ring makes tightening and loosening a lot easier. - The battery flip lid on the DPP is awesome, too bad everyone cant go this route. - I like the buttons on the SRO are better than the DPP, but turning the SRO off can be a little tedious as both have to be pressed at same time. - The SRO could use a couple more intensity levels between max and next setting down. Max will sear your eyeballs on cloud covered days, but great on those bright sunny days. - The DPP appears to be a little more robust with the metal shield, but that really is not too big an issue for USPSA games. Tactical work, DPP might be better. - The SRO screws are a more generic than the DPP. The DPP screws are metric, but is sized so that if you replace them with standard metric screw, the holes in the DPP need to be reamed out so that the screw will fit. Replacement DPP screws are available from Battlewerkz. Hope this helps some.

It works well doesnt it? I like the idea of a momentary foot switch, might have to incorporate that. I did the mods like the video below, including cutting out the black 9mm sorting grids and secured the 380 alum to it. All the trash, including 32, 380, etc falls into the bucket. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4YO5qp6CGo&t=269s

Yes, run the bolt wet, but make sure the gas piston, rings, etc are dry. No lube here.

I too shot the Delmarva match, it was a fun match, great staff. Sorry about your misfortune, lots of lessons learned. When I get the baggie with the rounds back from chrono, they go into the bag to be sorted out when I get home. RE the mags, suggest you buy a mag gauge, and a good scale (if you are worried about making weight). The mag gauge helped me a lot in sorting out my mags to get the right combo that gave me the most capacity and were still legal. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/EGW-USPSA-Official-Magazine-Gauge-P334.aspx

I grew up there. Small world.

I've had a CED M2 for several years, but got tired of the unreliability, and error codes. Even with a new sensor, and switching between start and stop, I have no confidence in it anymore. I have sent it back to CED and they found nothing wrong. I have since replaced it with a Caldwell G2. Price is reasonable (on sale at Midway, $229), super easy to set up, easy to use, etc. Love the BT app. So far, it seems to be in sync with rounds that I've had chrono'ed at a couple diff majors.