slavex

wait a minute, Dillon didn't use the mask guy to sign off his post with, what gives?

did the trigger bow already, although I didn't do the sides that can contact with the frame (you around the parts that go around the mag well) as there is no contact there, I just lube that area. What I basically did was look for areas that showed wear from the first few hundred rounds I put through it, and then polished them. I'll definitely look at the firing pin safety though, but not sure why the firing pin itself? just where the safety engages on it maybe?

so been playing with my new SII and have done some polishing to various parts, plunger, hammer, sear, etc. just wondering what others have done? I've found that the plunger made the most difference to the feel of the trigger pull, it was very rough, machine marks visible on it rough, and polishing it to a mirror finish made a huge difference. For a nicer reset I polished the bottom edge of the sear that the trigger bar rides on, and then connects to. huge difference to reset. I suppose for USPSA you guys could try changing angles in that area (trigger bar/sear) but for IPSC we can't obviously. any one have any other hints for the SII that are different from the SA guns? I am now sitting at 1454 round through this gun in the last 1.5 weeks. I'll be putting another 4-500 hundred through it this week, at least, if not more.

lots of them in Canada. they seem to shoot fine, and if you are posting on Canadiangunnutz.com you can talk directly to the owner of the company K100 is his posting name.

heh, that would rock.

my probelm seems to be overheating the FO, it loses it's brightness. Superglue will be tried I guess.

diggin up old threads. I think I am going to get some superglue tomorrow as the mushroomed ends are no where near as bright as the plain old cut ends. so when using the superglue method do you guys put a little in the hole at the front of the sight, then push the rod through, or put the rod in the hole, almost lined up, then some glue on the rod and push it in the rest of the way, from the muzzle?

this machine isn't a rotary, it's a vibration one just like the Dillons, Midway etc. only much much bigger. same kind of bowl too.

was just at my buddies work, a high end CNC shop. sitting outside polishing parts was a giant freakin tumbler. I mean huge the bowl had to be 3 ft across and the whole unit sat about 3.5 ft high. Speed control and timer on the unit and everything. no lid, as they don't bother with it (it's long lost I think). I asked how much and his boss told me new they go for around $1200 CDN. I figure a person could easily put 5000 9mm cases in there if not twice that. We are going to try it out in a few weeks if we can, as we both have a few 5 gallon pails of brass sitting around, and I have a ton of corn cob media sitting at the farm. anyone ever seen one of these things before? they litterally use chunks of rocks to debur and polish parts they've machined (not sure what kind of parts, as some would just get wrecked in there).

take your powder measure apart and start all over again with the powder bar. you'll need to reloctite it.

we've been using a micro on a buds TP9 for a couple weeks now, zero issues with it. steel Bzones at 100ys are easy hits, and he's damn fast with it, either as a pistol or carbine. I'd love to mount one on my Desert Eagle just for shits and giggles, but I'll need to make a new mount to do so, or take the front sight off and use the front slot, don't want to do that though. I think it would make a decent Open gun optic, though the small dot might not be so good. Having limited experience with Cmores, but tons with full size Aimpoints (on AR's), I think I can see where you guys are coming from in relation to the dot size. I think the Cmore also has a bit larger of a glass area, giving you a little more leeway in finding the dot. But the thing Micro seems indestructible so far. It's also been mounted on a couple shotguns, AR's, etc. to no ill effect.

I'll call the guys and see what they have. I can't remember if it was straight or curved. They (and their boss) were quite impressed with the setup, and the speed at which it'll operate. Too bad all the scenes it was in ended up on the cutting room floor. Apparently they filmed a great deal of reloading type stuff for the movie.

anyone have any photos of the revisions?

So yesterday I got to setup a newer 1050 for a company that supplies guns and such to the movie/tv industry. The press had been sent to them for the movie Shooter last year (it's scenes were cut unfortunately) and had been sitting unused since. there were 5 powder measures, 4 toolheads, 3 shell holders and 4 case plates for the case feeder. I ended up tearing the press completely apart as the props guys hadn't really put it together right the first time. It had the 45 shell holder, but with 9mm Dillon dies (included I guess) and one RCBS die as well. 9mm cases in the case feeder tube and all the bolts were loose. Kinda funny really, but I guess it looked good for the film. after some .45 dies were found I installed them (RCBS) and got everything tuned up. So now the questions. It seemed that the actual handle stroke is shorter than on my old RL, not having both presses together I am only guessing at this? And how do you slow down the advancing of the shell plate? it seems to really snap around, quickly. A lot faster than my old RL does at least. I tried adjusting the screw that the pawl hits, but that allowed the case plate to overshoot the next position if you came up too quick with the handle. I tried searching for the above but couldn't really find anything to answer the questions.

I'll post a pic when I get home next week. At the Canadian IPSC Nats this week and am staying at a friends to avoid the rush hour drive in the morning. But it's almost emarassing how rough the Dremel job is. My Dremel Foo is weak.

so I finally had it, I broke a ton of primer punches last week due to .22 cases being in my 9mm cases when running the 1050. Never had such a bad run of luck with .22 cases. I guess that's what happens when you have people shooting .22 on your Skills and Drills nights and you just sweep up the brass and take it home. So what did I do? well I attacked my Midway brass separator (you know the thing that you use to get rid of the media after tumbling) and opened up all the slots to about 7mm. Now when I get home with brass and quickly run it through the separator to get rid of all the dust and wood and crap, the .22 cases fall out as well. Did a test run by dumping in a known amount of .22 cases and within 10 revolutions all were in the bottom of the bucket. my Dremeling job looks a bit rough, as I tried a few different bits, but it works and it works great.

I will be buying the complete Wilson/Sinclair setup by the end of the year. as well as a cordless screwdriver to power it. If I could I'd get a Giraurd, but it's too much money. The Sinclair one is just so much more accurate than the RCBS or any of the other ones that hold the case by the rim. It might be a tad slower, but it does a much better job if you are truly trying to get the best accuracy.

God I've pinched my fingers enough times with manual indexing presses, let alone auto indexing. I can only imagine how many people would lose fingers with a totally automated 1050 without a bullet feeder. as mentioned above you'd need all sorts of safeties in place for when bullets don't fall in the case right, primer punches break, etc etc. one would likely have to have a pressure switch so if the press encountered too much resistance the guage would spike and shut down the hydraulics. But why go to all that work when one could just buy a fully automatic press already?

we have something similar happening up here. the first time our explosives guys came up with some ideas, we hammered them with snail mail and emails. you guys have to do the same. this is how they'll take your guns without a fight.

I checked all the rounds that were in the ammo bin when this occured, no high primers or weirdly seated ones. The crack is in the top of the shell plate right around where the case is held, a piece of the shell plate just chipped off. I can't figure out why, unless something dented it somehow. Maybe something got in between the die and the shellplate at the resizing station? But then why would it make a poping noise at the last station when the loaded round was ejected? I am planning on doing a tear down this week when I hit days off, I'll try and take a photo. I should note that while it does function fine most of the time, if there is a hangup at the case feeder it's on this position, something grabs the case funny or something, I guess a small bur as a result of the crack?

I have an old Midway one I love and a newer Dillon one. Using the same media, polish and similar amounts of brass, the Midway does a better job. Sorry to say. I was quite excited to get the Dillon due to it's larger capacity, but it just doesn't polish the same. I now preclean in the Dillon and secondary clean/polish in the Midway one.

Dillon- I'd agree with you if any of those things caused this. No changes have been made to the press (before or after this occurence), and it still functions fine. the "pop" sound when it cracked was on the kicking out of the loaded round. Everything else is fine, no other positions have had this happen to them. So as far as I can tell it's not from the swaging tool or any other tools on the press. Unless that particular spot encountered something I don't know about, I don't understand how it could have broken like it did. I'll keep using it as is I guess.

My 9mm shell plate on my 1050 cracked around one of the case positions recently. I phoned Dillon to replace it and it's almost $100 to get it, including shipping. Now I understand the 1050 doesn't have the lifetime warranty like the other presses, and for wear parts I can understand this, but for something like a crack in a case plate I disagree. Nothing abnormal was done, at least as far as I can tell, as the plate rotated and a loaded round kicked out, I heard a pop, and saw a piece of metal jump. from there I saw looked closer and saw the cracked case position. It still works, but sometimes cases do hang up and have to get a little finger nudge to move them in. anyone got an old used 9mm shell plate they aren't using anymore and want to sell for cheap?

you could always just use a combo seat/crimp die instead of separate ones.

nicely done dude. and yeah your setup is wobbly as all getout eh?