D.Hayden

I shoot TG @ 4.0, Zero's 124 RN, PF ~ 132. Looking at Zaks, not sure why the difference, I would think they would be closer. TG is nice because it is cheap too, with tax I think I pay ~ $46-48 for 4#, and it works in 38, 45, and 40 I am going to try some 147's that Steve recommends, just to see how it feels. If I hadn't seen his posts with that before, I'd be happy, now I'm wondering what I'm missing

Which ever one you buy, should give you guidelines. It's further away for rifles than pistols. This from Chrony: >> Chronographs should be at least 10 feet (3 m) from the muzzle of a high-powered rifle, but can be closer to guns with a lesser blast. Five feet (1.5 m) is about right for .22 rimfire firearms << I started maybe 4-5 feet (of course not reading the instructions). I placed it there so it didn't seem to be way out in the range. With TiteGroup that close, I was getting wildly different results (for 45 ACP anywhere from 125fps to 8,000fps). The powder was affecting the chrony. Unique no problem, no consitantly back at 6+, no problems.

Look at Shooting Chrony (http://Chrony.ca). I figured I don't use it that often, and they have many models with as few or many features as you could want. I bought the Re-conditioned one ~ $50. It has worked great as long as it's placed far enough away from the muzzle (too close gives invalid readings - probably true for all chronys). About 6-8 feet seems to be good for me. And I don't use the sky screens either, I do put the rods in for alignment (I saw a good idea somewhere, to use bright colored drinking straws instead; just in case) I only use it outdoors, under an awning Next I'll buy the smaller Pact timer from Brian, together it adds up to the PACT IV. This owkrs for m, since I think the Club timer is better suited for me. Any doubts about the timer, if you're going to get one anyway, and like the Pact IV, well... you're done.

For light loads like this, do you need to reduce the recoil spring? Anyone have a starting place for Unique, under a 180gr? I was thinking of a PF of around 140. (I usually use TiteGroup, but have a few pounds of Unique to use)

Air definitly will help. I use my air compressor to blow everything out once in a while. Take off the die head, there's always lots of powder debris and primer crap in there. Like someone said earlier, the 550's like it clean

It's easy to measure brass and sort out the ones that are too long, is there any quick check to go through a few thousand cases to check for too short? Now I don't find it until after the belling and the bullet won't find a 'home' I want to go through all the brass if possible, 9mm, 40 and 45. Thanks, Dave

Lonewolf, back to your original question (sorry for the thread drift). I've been using Zero 124 RN FMJ in my 9MM. I'm also using TiteGroup, and 4.0 grs gives me a PF of 132, with good grouping. It was also the cheapest powder by pound, with the bonus of needing less per round. I did loads of 3.6, 3.8, 4.0 and 4.2, then chronographed them all. 4.0 gave Min: 1043fps Max 1080fps, with a SD (over 10 rounds) of 11fps.

I'm always looking for ways to speed things up... But can't find a Metall reference, where's it come form?

Thanks for the tip, I went back and searched through, it's pretty common practice, just never heard of it. Makes lots of sense. Saw some good info from Brian on it. Now I tumble with walnut for ~ an hour, then with CornCob for ~ 2 hours - then I spray and coat? Do you wipe it off or leave it? What's the 3.5 vs 8.0 refering to?

Lubricating 9MM cases? I'm fairly new to loading 9MM (I've done maybe 4K), but I've never heard of this. The case is so small and straight, I can't think this is necesary. I've never had one stick, same for 40 and 45 I only lube rifle cases, and I could see Sig cases needing it, but for a straight wall pistol case? Thanks for the help

There's a thread: 45acp Resizer, Any need for full length resizing It's 45 but it probably applies here too.

I just had this problem too (yesterday in fact). In my case it was the surfaces that the primer rail slides on. They get pretty gunked up from the spent primers dropping residue on the surfaces. Make sure it's clean. I added a little powdered graphite to the top and bottom (rail only, not near the primers), and it went completely away

I have to second the Langdon's recommendation. I just got 2 back, it's night and day. He keeps pretty current on the production rules. He told me the trigger replacemnet was no longer legal, so he did a 'Level 2' job on the standard trigger. Very nice. . All in all great work. I left the standard sights, since mine 92FS and 96Vertec don't have options like that. Also added the Stainless rods to both, and a bigger mag release. I don't know enough to be able to tell exactly hopw the rods helps (swapping plastic for steel), what I do know, is shooting PF 173s through the 40, I've never shot better with it. I had 'retired' the 40, and just shot the 92 for production because I shot the Vertec so bad. I only sent it since I was sending the 92. I'm so glad I did. It'll be my new production gun, I'll lower the PF down - and statr testing loads for it. Send it now . There's 2 Steve's who also are in Matt Burketts forum, they gacve me the Langdon recomendations.

There's a version, where the gerbil launches and runs around the house, starting small fires... buring down the place, sparks flying.. it can get pretty involved, depending on who tells it, and how much time you have. these things all take on a life of thier own.

Being a rookie, I haven't heard of this. What's the difference between this die and the Dillon? Does this die replace the Dillon crimp die?

I've read through (all/most) of the springs FAQ. I was wondering if there's a discusion about the mechanics. What happens if you go to light, or how to tell you're too heavy. What would the systems be? Too heavy = no ejection? Too light = no feed? It sounds like lighter = better, but too light hurts the gun, so on the borderling, shok-bufs help protect the frame. And where's a good starting place on a Kimber 45, 1911? 14#? Thansk, Dave

Thanks for the sites, thanks for the book recommendations too

If you go to a local gun show, sometimes you'll fiund sales of bullets at good prices. Like everything else, know the prices before you go. Or at your local club find people to go into a quanity purchase, if you buy enough it gets much cheaper. Hardest thing is having everyone agree on brand. If your club doesn't there may be other clubs that you could piggyback with. It's all in the shipping...

PistolSmith... thank you - overwhelming, thank you Couldn't find the other, if there something misspelled?

Looking at 1911 changes and modifications, there seems to be quite a bit that can be done to tweak the guns. Is there a good FAQ on this site (I haven't found it yet) on pros and cons? I'm thinking about: 1911 AUTO OVERSIZE MAG RELEASE - Wilson Combat, NOWLIN Magwells - I got some good information on these in another post. Springs & Shok-Bufs - Information overload! Lots of good posts. Cheap enough to experiment with myself SS & Ti guide rods - I've seen the recoil systems faq and posts, but so far haven't found posts on just the rods - one piece vs. 2 peice. SS vs. Ti Ambi Safeties: Is this something that can be added without milling/cutting the slide? Ok, maybe I'm spending too much time looing at Brownells web site If anyone has a good book to suggest, that would be great. I'd like to see how to replace and tune extractors and replace hammer springs and firing pins. It's like working on cars! Thanks! Dave

They got it - deleted

If you load other calibers with the 650, you may already have the shellplate and buttons. If you do, you can just buy the powder die (~$8), rather the the whole conversion kit. For the complete quick change, if you're going to be shooting the .40 most of the time, and the 45 becomes a once in a while, you don't need to get the whole thing, just load up a good batch of the 45s, then reset the measure for the 40. The grain difference seems to be so close, it'll only take a few minutes (at most) to reset it to the right weight, and adjust the bell. Depending on the bullets (180 vs 230) and powder, it may be the same charge. And use the extra for expendable supplies. That said, I'm lazy, and have 4 quick change sets, but I have a 550, and they're quite a bit less

Did you fit them both? Any problems? I'm hoping they go in without looking added-on. This may seem dumb, but without seeing it in person, does the 'checkering' point forwards? Any awkwardness with this? My other Kimber came with a built in Magwell, so I'm having visualization problems with these. Thanks

For the last peice, I'm interested in getting a magwell on a Kimber Custom II, recommendations? I wanted a Dawson ICE, but they don't seem to be made for 1911's. The Smith & alexander looks good so far, and sounds like it's an easy fit?

The Xtreme's say "Fits all double stack magazines"... for single stacks, do these work? The CR's look good too, but expensive compared to the Safariland, unless someone knows a cheap place