D.Hayden

The Safariland's look like the things I see, in particular the 773. Do these seem to work well for those of you that have them? And, if you know if they'll fit any belt (1.5") like the CR's ?

I've been shootng Limited 10 lately (while my produciton gun is being worked on), I'd like to take adantage of the different rules with the mag pouch placments. Where's a good place to look for these? I don't even know what they're called. I am using some Kydex paddle 2-mag pouches now, and they dig in when I have to go to a low shot. I'd like angled singles if I can find them. Thanks, Dave

I've heard that Matt Burkett has a special grip on his SVI Infinity limited gun. Anyone know where I can see a picture of it?

Thanks to you both, I didn't even think about thiiner grips.

There's also an article about them in American Handgunner (Nov/Dec) issue, page 26

Sorry - got lots of good information from the Bo-Mar web site. For 1911 owners: do you have a Bo-Mar sight? Do you like it? Any suggested alternative?

Are the fixed sights on Kimber Custom II's easily replaceable? I'd like to put on a .90 or .100 FO sight and a Bo-Mar on the rear. Are the gunsmith changes?

In my Kimber, I use this too, 230FMJ, TG 4.7gr gives me a 170pf 10 shots, min speed 714fps, max 754fps, average, 739fps ~ 170pf, right? already cutting it close. I think using Brians rule of thumb, it's too slow (I'm a little new at this)

From another post about brass, people mentioned different ways of dealing with the primer pcokets on some brass (most notably S&, and listed Ream, Swage, Deburr (and variations) as methods of 'fixing' the primer hole. Can someone explain to a begginer what these are, and how they affect the round?

I want to try working on my grips on a Kimber 45, but I don't want to hack up my stock grips. I'm looking for suggestions for places to find grips that are wood or plastic that I can file/carve, to make it easier for my thumb to reach the mag release, with a little less awkwardness. Thanks, Dave

WinClean ammo - just found these: http://www.winchester.com/law/news/news.eye?storyid=6 http://www.winchester.com/ammunition/compa...eye?question=96

Thanks to all. I never thought about Primers, I've been using Winchester LP. Can those be causing some problems with the S&B? Any differences I should be aware of?

I found a few of those (NT) brass in Winchester, looks like a Microsoft advertisement, since they say 'WIN NT'. What are those for? Which dies did you switch from and to? My problem with the AMERC was primers popped out during firing, and they were shorter, so they didn't bell well (in a 550). S&B, slows me down, to make sure the primers get seated all the way to even, or less below the head The next batch/bucket will be Headstamp specific. ANyone have problems with 'normal' Winchester or Federal? It's been working fine, but it may be my sample size is too small to run into problems yet.

Do you like the Scotts? Any change of heart?

Color aside, can anyone voice thier opinions of the different grip surfaces? 1) Standard 2) Alfaro Stipple (Competition) 3) Scotts Grip (Competition and Compact) I was wondering if these grips (2 and 3) loose thier 'grip' over time, and it's just easier to add skateboard tape to the standard? Thanks!

Is there a FAQ or something aboput brass to avoid for the 45 ACP? Given, there's a seperate Amerc brass thread - I know some people like it, I threw all mine out I've also found that: S&B - primers fit very tight CBC - primers fir loose I've had good luck with Winchester, PMC, Federal, R-P, and some stuff (military?) I don't recognize. Just wondering if there's others I should just toss when I buy my next bucket, before wasting primers and bullets with them. Thanks, Dave

I just got a fair amount of 38 Special Nickel cases. I usually tumble brass for about an hour with untreated walnut, then 1-2 hours with corn cob, treated with Dillon's Brass polish. With nickel, do you still use brass polish, or use untreated corn-cob? Thanks, Dave

Thanks for the info, I was composing mine when you posted...

Ok, no-one ever gets my humor... I'm just challenged, I even spelled my forum name wrong, sorry I'll try again What I was trying to ask was for good data on powder combustion in different loads. That TiteGroup in a 9MM 124gr at PF 135 seems to burn clean, but TG in 45 230gr @ 170pf seems dirty (around the slide and barrel, it's noticeable). I first started thinking about this when I was chronographing some loads, and the chrony was giving bad readings (anywhere from 125fps to 8000fps) when shooting TG in the 45, but not with the prev or next magazine with Unique (at about the same PFs), and I didn't have these problems with TG in my 9MM. On the softer question, some posts I've read seem to say that 2 powders with very similar burn rates (in the charts), same bullet and PF, that one will feel 'softer'. If that's true, any way to know? Or is this just perception? Thanks for taking it easy on me, Dave

I like mine although I don't use them for shooting handguns, just shotguns because the comb was too high to use muffs. The reduction is very good, although they don't say how much, It seems they reduce as good as normal muffs, not as much a the thicker ones (like a Peltor 10), so maybe ballpark a NR of 22?. The best part, is they fit right in, and there's no delay to expand like a 'normal' plug

Softer? I've seen and read posts talking about how one powder shoots softer than another, I can see how powders that have much different burn rates could be different, but I don't see how something like N320 could be tht different than WST. Is there a good explanation for this? Dirty? Is there information about how dirtyy a powder is? I started using Titegroup because of a Dillon article talking about how clean burning it was (that it's cheap is good for me), but posts here talk about that it's dirty at low preasures (like 45 ACP). All I'm looking for is a good cheap powder that makes my Kimber 45 have the same recoil as my Beretta 9mm so the sites stay on track, and the gun is spotless after shooting. Thanks, Dave

There are quite a few videos and books out there by Brian and Matt and others. Can I get a couple recommendations for rookies? And why you liked it?

SO in general are you saying lighter is better all around, or is there some tradeoff? For 45 do you think 185's or 200's would be better than 230's (assuming they all shoot paper equally well)?

I came to this same conclusion at the range. I wish I had seen this forum then, I thought I was really screwing up. With new loads for 45, this brass is consitantly shorter than the rest (I bought a bucket of brass), so it didn't bell the case well with the powder drop and the number of cases that had primers fall out was ridicuols. I would send it to someone, but I've helped us all by throwing it out. I felt bad wasting 500 rounds of brass, but I have to think there as a 10-15% failure rate (primers falling out, sticking in the chamber, failure to feed, etc), this brass isn't going to bother anyone else.

Thanks for the responses. I was asking about steel specifiacally, because I've heard that larger bullets work better, I hadn't heard anything about longer ranges, but that makes sense. If I move from a 124 to a 147, or a 230 to a 200, does recoil change as trhe speed changes?