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Gunnar897

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  1. From Hogue Wbsite -G10 is a high-pressure thermoset plastic laminate consisting of multiple layers of woven fiberglass mesh cloth impregnated with an epoxy resin binder. Not sure how it would react to heat. You might try a spot on the inside of the grip? G10 is cut on CNC machines so it must be pretty hard again not sure how it would react to heat.
  2. I went for it tonight and learned a few things between sanded and un-sanded: Sanding removes/softens the factory lines so you tend to go over the entire grip and dont feel forced to stay within the original textured areas Use a smaller diameter tip - I used a mid sized tip textured with a 30 lpi file. There seems to be more material squeezing out the sides than say a small diameter tip on a flat surface The extra material that squeezed out makes the grip very "grippy" but not pretty A smaller tip allows more flexibility in pattern or lack of pattern My goal was an aggressive grip and I got it. As usual I should have slowed down a bit. This is my second grip I have stippled and overall I am pleased. I may go back and dress up some areas
  3. I assume worst case scenario I could try an area and if it doesnt work sand it out and try again
  4. Has anyone skipped sanding the diamond pattern off prior to stippling? I have done one stipple job before and was pleased with its out come but was wondering if sanding is necessary. I am trying to avoid reducing the grip and didnt feel like sanding made much of a difference on the last grip. Any previous experience would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  5. No spring bind, I have heard from several shooters that said they ran springs that were cut 4 coils short. I thought there was a common understanding it needed to be done and wasnt sure why
  6. 185's I assumed that I would end up at 12.5 but wasnt sure on variable vs standard and full length or cut. I have tried both(standard and variable) in other guns but never spent the time to figure out what was best The new barrel is a 5"hybrid so I lost some weight in the silde
  7. I have heard many people cut 4 coils off a standard length spring for 1911/2011. Not sure why- to ensure the slide can travel a the full distance? I have run full length(uncut) springs with out issue. I accidentally put a commander length spring in and it ran fine. The commander length spring is obviously much shorter than a standard. I recently had a new barrel and lightened slide put on my 2011 and have a 40SW 167pf load. I plan to order a range of springs(11-14) standard and variable and see what I and the gun like best. Should I start with standard springs and cut as I go or just cut 4 coils and start there. Any help would be appreciated
  8. I'm a complete noob to this but here's my take on it. With something like Solidworks or Fusion360, and others I'm sure, the Cam can be part of the software. So you draw the model in the CAD side then slide it over into CAM and you get a gcode program that will be your toolpaths. CAD is computer assisted drawing, CAM is computer assisted manufacturing. They don't have to be the same software companies by any means. I use Alibre for CAD and MeshCAM. The CAD will export the model into one of many file formats like .stp, .igs, or .stl. The CAM then imports that and helps you make the tool paths. Another term you'll hear is post. The CAM can have post processing choices for different kind of machine controllers. So if you're like me you choose Linux/EMC as your post and the gcode program you get will work for that control software. There's lots of different controllers out there, and some have some quirks to them. It just helps getting a program that's gonna work right out of the gate. I always end up doing a little manual editing though. Like I said noob. I know you didn't ask, but here's what I found to be the best learning experience for CAD/CAM. Cubify Invent CAD software is free for 14 days or buy it for $49. I ended up buying it because I was having so much fun figuring out models. It's very limited in the file types it uses. It can't import someone else's file and only exports in .stl. But it's super cheap and there's an outstanding set of youtube videos for it. I did end up upgrading my CAD software later, but Invent was perfect to learn with. Well worth the money, or free if you get it done in 14 days. Watch CubifyFan's 18 videos in order and you will be drawing parts in CAD, I promise. They're perfect little 10 minute or so videos that explain one topic at a time for total beginners. http://cubify.com/en/Products/Invent https://www.youtube.com/user/CubifyFan/search?query=invent Then get the free 15 day MeshCAM http://www.grzsoftware.com/ He's gonna send you a series of training emails that explain how CAM works, again for beginners so it's very easy to understand. The training course if free and you can sign up on his website too. I appreciated the CAM before I even had a mill. Took some of the voodoo out of it and also helped me think in terms of how to get a tool to do what I want. To buy it's $250, but that's pretty cheap for stand alone CAM. Fusion360 right now is free for a year to hobbyists/startups. It's CAD/CAM together. Much more professional software than the other ones I listed, but for me it's been pretty frustrating to use. Been watching alot of youtube on it, and I like the CAM but the CAD is not so easy. For me anyway. I went back to using the CAD I knew. I don't think I'd recommend it for someone who's brand new. It's pro level and there's a lot of choices to make that aren't always intuitive. http://fusion360.autodesk.com/pricing# Last but not least check out cnccookbook.com Bob's site has a ton of articles that explain eveything about the process. It's a great resource. I bought his Gwizard software for feeds and speeds, been very happy with it. Sorry if it was long winded take care Kevin Thank you. That was very helpful. I am looking at MicroKenetics CNC Express(http://www.microkinetics.com/index.php?page=express/express) that has MillMaster software. Based on the screen shots and what I have read MillMaster seems very, for lack of a better term "simple". Am I going to want a more sophisticated CAD/CAM?It seems like it would be ok for very straight forward parts/paths but lack the details CAD programs provide. Does anyone have any experience with either the machine or software? Or opinions? Keep in mind this a hobby level machine. Thank you Gunnar
  9. What is the difference/purpose of the different software programs everyone is discussing? Is Solidworks just for modeling and Cam software for running the tool path etc? How do they interact etc? Thank you Gunnar
  10. I am thinking about shooting open in 2016. I have done it in the past. I basically bought a gun that was built not knowing anything or having a preference and I think I only shot 3 matches. Life got in the way of the best sport ever. So I have limited knowledge/experience. I mainly shoot limited. Anyway, I leaning towards 9 major this time (cheap brass). I have heard the the first 2 barrel ports do most of the work and the comp ends up being a pretty counter weight. If this is true, could you get the same results with a 6" hybrid barrel with holes?
  11. I have been a member for 7 yrs(with a 3.5yr break) and I still havent made there yet!
  12. Unless you know what's required of each stage/match beforehand would adding or changing your mag retention device during a match run afoul of USPSA rule 5.2.5.3? In IPSC, they keep track of that stuff with a card you carry around from stage to stage (L3 and higher). I am not sure. I have seen people add magnets before a local match stage and remove it later. No one has ever called anything. I am only aware of issues changing firearms.
  13. We see them with some regularity. I mounted a 65lb magnet I picked up at Home Depot for $6-7 on the angled portion of my first mag pouch. It adds a little weight but not too bad.
  14. Thanks Mulrick. It is rough as it was the goal. I agree that a running bond would produce a more aesthetically pleasing appearance and would actually be easier than trying to keep straight lines.
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