bountyhunter

Dude! I have sever acid reflux.... so, I have to avoid foods which aggravate the stomach. Know what the top of the list is: 1) Alcohol (very irritating and dilates the sphincter which keeps stomach contents in the stomach). 2) Tomato products (very acidic) 3) Carbonated beverages (carbonated water forms carbonic acid and all sodas have some citric acid for tartness). So, for irritating the stomach, your list is the Axis of Evil! Yes, me. Mine is chronic acid reflux and erosion of the esophagus. I can't have barbecue sauce, catchup, or BEER! NO BEER! The last beer I had gave me horrible pain for a week.... and not the wussie burning acid kind of pain, but the unbelievable "spasms of the esophagus" pain that is so severe it is often mis diagnosed as a heart attack. Welcome to old age... it gets worse as you get older. You should try Zantac or Prilosec after the doctor checks you out. Inability to tolerate or digest foods is often misdiagnosed as food allergy. True food allergies are extremely rare and will initiate inflammation and swelling in the mouth and throat (my brother almost died from one). They can do tests to check for food allergies, pretty unusual to cause these symptoms.

So, my poor motorcycle just sits in the garage waiting for the inhuman heat wave to let up..... all tuned up and ready to go. And today was the promised relief... note the word PROMISED...... It was only supposed to go up to a high of about 95 today .... "only 95"? Well after 110, that was going to be a cold snap. So, I took the motorcylcle out and when I rode to work at 8:30, it was a lovely 75 degrees. I was planning to ride it home for lunch and take my car back to work for the return trip in the heat of the day. UNFORTUNATELY.... at noon when I was going home to lunch, it was already 95 with high humidity. But it's only a 15 minute ride home..... I was doing pretty well as long as I was moving, but a couple of miles from home the traffic stopped on the expressway and it felt like a wall of heat glaring up from the road. I knew I was in deep trouble as I felt heat flushing through me and I my skin was starting to turn red and I got light headed. I looked for any escape and dove into the Kaiser parking lot and drove into a closed gate in their parking structure. I bailed off, chucked my helmet and laid down on the cement in the shade. My heart rate slowed and my head cleared in a few minutes and I made it home.... feeling lucky to have made it. Moral: never trust a weather man and don't screw with the heat.

FWIW, Revelation: Highs on a specific day can be set by a freak weather turn, but look at the number of hot days and the averages and they are way up now. BTW, global warming does not predict every place will get warmer. The average on earth will rise, some places will rise a lot and some will get cooler as weather patterns shift. Some desert areas will get more rain, some areas will get less. Like this year, out here in kali we got about three times normal rainfall on the year but some parts of the middle of the country got a drought. Global warming would be no problem if everywhere just got a shade warmer.... unfortunately, it actually will cause massive climate pattern changes as well as these awful hot spells that last forever. Then my face must be terrrified. I don't know what happened. 25 years ago I was good looking...... also a lot taller and thinner. Must be global aging effect.

Ditto, the slide that mates with an LDA has some special cuts and also the firing pin blocking safety stuff is not "1911 standard". Might be cheaper to get a 9mm barrel made that drops into your existing slide..... or just buy the complete top end for a 9mm Para LDA. In most cases, buying a new top end from a manufacturer costs more than a good used gun of the same incarnation.....

I have also had it in my right shoulder for at least six months. In my case, it's worse because the inflammation caused by the tendon triggers an immune system response which attacks the joint...Anyway, the answer to your question: The treatment is cold packs applied to the shoulder, and do NOT move the arm in any way that causes pain in the tendon. This is really one of the injuries where you have to let it heal. You should try "directions of motion" with your arm and I believe you will see specific planes of motion that hit the tendon which is sore. AVOID THOSE, and only move it in a way that does not inflame it. Get those gel-paks for keeping things cold and put them in the fridge (not freezer) and lay it on the shoulder and leave it. You shoule see relief very quickly if you do the above.

We hit 110 both saturday and Sunday. The really bad thing was no overnight cooling... never dropped below 80 all night. Got up Sunday and it was like 95 at about 10AM. Was still 90 at 11PM that night........

It's a lot better than my new slogan for 2006: I'VE HAD ENOUGH......

If it's s duty or defense gun, leave the springs alone. If it for sport shooting:Here's the easy option: blue Loctite on the strain screw threads. If the mainspring is stock, a good place to start is all the way in and back out 3/4 turns. You can keep coming out until you get a misfire and then go in about 1/4 turn. Second option: clamp the bottom third of the maonspring in a panavise (plastic jaws) and do a "mandrel bend" on the upper 1/3 of the spring. Use a round bending form (a large screwdriver handle works). I believe the Mikulek after market spring has a curved bend at the top. If you get the bend just right, it allows fully screwing in the strain screw. I NEVER GRIND SCREWS. WHY? Because then if I get a misfire, I am screwed (literally, not in the fun way).

It probably never actually "blows over". I've had CTS for about 15 years... it gets better and worse, never actually goes away. Wait until you get really old and start getting tendonitis and arthritic inflammation to go with it.... that's what I have in my dominant shoulder now. So, I can't dry fire or do strength excercises and my scores suck now. Just don't get old.......

The marriage disconnect occurs right at the ceremony..... he is standing there smiling because he is thinking: "Now I can have it whenever I want..." She is standing there smiling because she is thinking: "Thank God I never have to do THAT again...."

My wife's parents are full blooded Cajuns and so is she. I'll probably tell her the joke, definitely not her parents. The first time I met them they would stare at me, shake their heads, and rattle off in Cajun-French..... I have no idea what they were saying, I guess that was the point. My wife claims she doesn't speak Cajun, but she swears at me using the language. I quickly learned that "cujon" (phonetic spelling) means idiot......

Huh? I don't know of any companies deliberately injecting faults to reproduce sound, My dad rode Harleys from WAY back and he said that the thing to do back then was rig up a fuel drip line that you could press a button and have a drop of gas go into the pipe a bit up from the outlet so it would flash a flame out the pipe. That was to impress the girls. I swear, that's what he said.

Best wishes. My wife currently runs the cardiac catheterization unit at the county hospital, so I know a little about this stuff. Valve replacement is very common and the weapon of choice is typically a porcine (pig) heart valve. As wierd as it sounds, they are better than the mechanical ones and usually work very well long term. There are many thousands of them in use, it's pretty much a well known procedure. Hope your father is back up soon.

The mufflers, such as they are, are inside the pipes. They are VERY loud.

Agreed! Ever hear 20 jap bikes riding together? Sounds like a bunch of sewing machines with the foot peddle stuck to the floor. LOL Hear twenty Harleys and there is no sweeter sound!! A while back Harley tried to patent that sound (I swear I read that) because the "Japanese Harleys" were getting pretty close to sounding like it. BTW, I think the "zingy" sound of a typical Jap bike is the overhead cam chain drive. harleys are (or use to be) all pushrod engines. Interesting thing: Harley gets a pass on excessive exhaust sound level out here, not sure why. I put glasspacks on my car and got a ticket immediately. If a Harley passes you, your ears will exceed threshold of pain instantly...........

"www.pistolsmith.com & forum.m1911.org" As long as we are giving opinions: I like Pistolsmith, it has very nice people there but it is dying of neglect and lack of participation.

In order: No No No No That's how you know it doesn't need to be fixed.

+1 - I would definitely agree with this. My trigger was pretty nice from the box - not a custom trigger quality, but pretty darn nice. It has a slight amount of creep... With a little bit of careful, informed work, I now have a 2# trigger that breaks pretty clean - that's without any work on hammer or sear angles, so the stock parts (on my gun) were very well mated. Ditto on the Trojan. Mine has all the stock parts and I keep the trigger set at about 2.5#. If the hammer and sear are high quality and cut properly, you can "dial down" the trigger pull by simply adjusting the sear spring tension. If the sear and hammer are marginal or cut wrong, doing that will cause hammer follow or maybe even multiple fire events. Some typical production 1911's rely on the extra sear spring pressure to prevent hammer follow on a buggered sear.BTW, mine was about 4# when I got it new, but very crisp and sharp break.

Most likely it is a trigger control thing. That is true wisdom.Shooting a gun perfectly requires only two simple things: 1) Aim it in the right direction. 2) Squeeze the trigger without moving it. Notice I said two SIMPLE things, not two EASY things.... Most people are much better at #1 than they think they are, and much worse at #2 than they think. Here is what every beginner (I did it too) does that makes the shots go wild: 1) While aiming, sees the gun sights moving slightly..... because NOBODY can hold a gun perfectly still. 2) Yanks the trigger when the sights are "perfect".... and pulls the shot two feet offline. 3) Closes eyes at firing and does not "snap" a picture of the sights when the gun fires..... if you do, you'll see the sho goes exactly where the sights were aligned when you heard that loud BOOM...... Work on focusing on the sights, aligning: then shift total awareness to the trigger pull and don't try to adjust the sights alignment as you squeeze the trigger. Force yourself to keep your eyes open so you can see if the gun is moving when you pull the trigger. Most shot error is caused by the gun moving at the trigger pull.

It's not brain surgery but it's not trivial. When I blue print a gun, I install a new hand and balance the star ratchets as needed. The thing to remember is that the hand controls carry up and lock of the cylinder. NOTE: the ratchets are not all alike. Before taking apart the gun or doing any fitting of the new hand, check all of them and try to identify the "loosest" ratchet position by doing a resistance carry up test and see which position "locks in at the slot" at the latest point of cylinder rotation. Fit the new hand tip to that one so it carries up correctly and slips smoothly past the ratchet after lock. Then, fit each of the other ratchets to the hand by removing a very slight amount of material on the ratchet using the tip of a needle file. You ink the ratchet with a sharpie to see the spot binding and remove a very slight amount of metal, then re-check. Method: I remove the guts from the frame and install only the hand and trigger (and cylinder), no rebound slide or mainspring. Leave the side plate off for this. Pull slowly and "feel" the carry up. After the cylinder stop bolt locks into the slot, the hand tip must not bind when it slips past the star and move upwards (don't force it if the new hand is too tight). If there is binding, remove a slight amount of material from the LEFT side of the hand tip until it JUST slides by the ratchet without escessive resistance. INITIALLY FIT THE HAND TIP TO THE LOOSEST RATCHET STAR so the rest of the ratchets will be at least fitted correctly, or perhaps a bit too snug. The process of fitting all of the remaining ratchets to the new hand tip is called "balancing" and must be done very carefully so you don't remove too much metal (or the cylinder will have play in lockup). You want to remove the absolute minimum material to get them all alike. watch the hand tip/rathcet as it carries up and slides off to see the area of the ratchet which needs fitting. mark it with black Sharpie ink to see where it is binding and remove only material from that area. I also use a red sharpie to mark the top of the ratchet I am fitting so I will be sure to keep working on the same one as I take it in and out of the gun for fitting and filing. (Duh!) When finished, all cylinder positions will carry up and lock perfectly and the hand will "slip by" with very little resistance after the cylinder bolt locks into the cylinder. I don't believe SW does this fine-fitting process any more to balance all the ratchets, based on the new guns I have seen. It is extremely time consuming and requires a lot of "file and re-check" steps.

PATIENT: "Doc.... it started hurting when I did this..." DOC: "Why don't you stop doing that?" Not sure how old you are, but your body may be telling you that the age of heavy workouts is behind you now.... when you reach dinosaur age, everything gets easy to injure. BTW, I messed up my wrists just doing push ups.... because of the stress it puts on the bent wrist. Now I do them on my knuckles with bent knees to reduce the stress. I also got horrible tendonitis in my right shoulder just from my "normal" light workout. If you get hurt doing an excercise..... need to find a different one to do.

I really don't begrudge the discount stations the right to price their gas up their with the name brands. Let's face it, they are out to make as much as they can.My main gripe is when I see two Valero stations a mile apart selling at a 30 cent differential because they are all being supplied by the same distributor and the prices should be similar.

Ditto on the hammer drag, I see it on every new smith around these days including PC guns. Most of the ones I see are dragging on the right hand (cover plate) side. In most cases the edge of the cover plate was not machined even with the frame edge and I have to cut it down some.

Way to go...... raise a frosty to Combat Tupperware! I just started shooting my 35 in our local league and it's a kick to shoot.

If you change the link and stop to take out the play, be advised: the link controls the movement of the barrel as it goes in and out of lockup. The change would cause it to "push up" into the slide cuts earlier in the lockup motion. It might be no problem or it might cause interference and round over the edges of the upper barrel lugs. That destroys a barrel. If it shoots well, I vote for the camp whose philosophy is don't try to fix something that's already working....