babo_al

It will , don't do it , that assuming you get checked , last world shoot in Greece they opened the slide on my stock two and turned the gun upside down so they can visually see the block during the equipment check .

maybe this review could help someone make his decision done from Tactical Practical and Fantastical a blog that offer reviews on many products available to shooters up north http://tpf-online.com/2013/12/06/next-to-trimming/

no

The way Tanfoglio is designed the reset of the trigger is controlled by the movement of the trigger bow up /down, and backwards/ forwards . As you pull the trigger you are pushing the trigger bow which pushes the sear and the hammer falls. At this point the gun goes in battery and the slide pushes the trigger bow downwards { note the trigger bow stays in contact with sear only when slide is fully closed } releasing the pressure from the sear, this movement of the slide will bring the sear on the down position to catch the hammer hooks so you are ready for next shoot. Now as we release the trigger, the trigger bow start coming up and forward and in contact with the sear back again .To make this as short as possible one wants to ether remove material from the lower left leg of the sear that engages the trigger bow or from the left side of the trigger bow that engages the same side of the sear. This material removal could affect the timing of the gun because it mean the trigger bow need to move more backwards to engage sear leg {now shortened } and depending how much you remove in double action guns you may end up with a longer trigger pull in single action mode but a short reset. In order to remedy the longer trigger pull in single action mode for double action guns considering that the trigger movement is limited from the movement of the trigger bow which is restricted from the location of the interrupter one need to add some material to the inside part of the interrupter that engages the inside part of the trigger bow , or add some material on the trigger bow itself .Sorry I am just to lazy to take pictures but for someone that knows the terminology of the parts you know what I talking , if not Tanfoglio have exploded pictures of all the models with the part names in there . Is so much trouble in other words that is not worth the time and effort, at least not for me. Hope I helped you hacking your gun …. Please don’t go this route unless you have spare parts to experiment with.

I think I first seen one when the stock 3 came up , since than all other models stock 2 included have the new design on them.

Use the new hammer strut factory part PR041 old Tanfoglios have a different one installed on it that will push the spring further down. I had all mine replaced with new ones and had to replace springs in them too as the ones I had there before were shortened to match the old hammer strut length.

My PalFiller the one made in Italy , works like champion after 40k round and I have yet to change batteries on it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK2z9iiH_3M

I think your problem with installing the spring has to do with the length of the spring leg that goes on the trigger side rather that the dimension of the coil itself , trim that at the indicated point and you will find that it fits just fine, use a temp short pin to keep the spring in place when installing the trigger assembly. Don't spread those spring legs again after the installation to get a better trigger pull, so you don't come back to the same problem of having trouble to reset.

They all stick , depending on the pellets you use , just a drop of oil on top of the mag every time you load and you are back in business , I have broken 2 guns so far and gave up un them .They cannot handle more than 2-3000 max , unfortunately .

Is unlikely that they mistakenly installed the wrong one, but is still worth checking the length of your firing pin anyway. For large frames you expect that to be 2.63" , for small frame that that is 2.48 " I don't know how a unmolested gun can't fire reliably all factory ammo, unless you firing pin bumps on the safety block or somehow is misaligned this should not happen.

I may , not sure just yet , but just have a look at the shooters list on the upcoming matches and if you find me there don't hesitate to ask me for it , I always have spare parts with me . As per other parts you may need Tanfoglio factory online shop is the best source , they don't have a problem shipping in Canada.

I see you are in Toronto , come over at Target Sports on Tuesday nights , we run our IPSC practice from 6pm to 9 pm and I will get you one .

Just install a new trigger return spring , I have the feeling that the reason for that nice trigger of yours is the fact that someone bend that spring more that what it should.

Here is what I have and it has worked just fine on the pas 4-5 years. -14 lb hammer spring from wolff springs -8lb recoil spring { minor load 131pf} -90 degree bend on the original sear spring to lightened that up you will see what I mean by that when you disassemble yours. if your gun has the new improved 2 peace sear bend as necessary the spring on the sear lever the part that engages the firing pin block on the slide just enough to lightened up a bit more the trigger pull. -No modification on the trigger return spring. - firing pin spring from wolff cut to 38 coils total { this is not the original but the one that came from wolf in the same package with the recoil spring cut to 38 coils } -Eric new double action extended firing pin { this will work with the original firing pin block safety { this one become available last couple of months} -Henning front sight { depending on the preference } I find his sight to be the best considering the length of the fiber optic is twice as long as the factory - some folks think having extra strong magazine springs is the best way to ensure the gun runs perfect .I have found out that as I reduce the recoil spring taking one coil off the magazine spring helps with the timing on the gun and ensures that the round will be striped easily and with no resistance from the mag. I make sure in my small frame Stock 2 that the magazine lips are spread apart just enough to accept a 9mm projectile pas through with no feeling of resistance between them .This mean the lips are spread apart about 0.356 or 0.357 other chores to consider disassemble the trigger bar and polish part that rubes again the plunger . disassemble the plunger and polish the head that rubes against the trigger bar take all the machine tool marks on the plunger shaft { very important } I put that on a drill press and run a fine file across and a 800 grind paper to make it as smooth as possible polish the surface of your sear { front and under, { the part that rubes against the hammer } and cut the secondary angel on it if you feel confident of doing that yourself. this should produce 7 lb double action and 2.75 single action pull .

I think all depends on the number of rounds you plan to load , if is just about some occasional plinking one can deal with primmer issues and try to open up and remake the ones that come out without a primer or a bad seated primer on it.Is definitely not a press for the ones planning of loading 25 thousand or more rounds for year .The primmer system can hold about 3-4 thousand rounds before starting to give all kind of problems . The press looks sturdy but the plates that hold rounds on their position in the shell holders are kept in place with a screw not very firm and easy to strip the base if one try to tightened up .If these plates specially the ones holding the case above the primer station is loose is hard to align the case with the primer under and it will fail to install the new primer. I noticed also the primer system is held in place from the shell holder with a big nut in the center that uses a rubber ring friction to prevent it from coming loose.But as ones operates the press that nut comes loose anyway , primmer system comes loose , ...and is just a pain in the a... after that .I sold mine after dealing with it for 9 months and did never regret doing so.

Please PM me the link to your review if you don't want to put it in here , I am really interested to know the detail

PalFiller is available for the ones that don't want to wait , almost 3 times more but in my opinion worth the money , aluminum construction looks very solid and well made . I know the Canadian distributor has them in stock .Or just go for the dildo

PalFiller seam to be the answer for now , some US and Canadian distributors have them .

A modified 1911 plunger safety pin will work jus t fine , it does not need to be captured from the safety and one can play this the length of it and the length of the spring behind to add or remove pressure as need it.

Hypothetically, if there wasn't an availability or price issue, the preference would be for the Stock 2 right? The Stock II would be the "Popular" choice. The production shooters that were using the Stock II seem to be flocking towards the Stock III now even though it uses the small frame magazines. Is that because its actually better, or simply the newest toy to play with I am not sure? I shoot Limited so what do I know? I think you right on that , I was using a stock 2 for some time and jumped on the stock 3 model when they become available for few months . I find them to be a glorified copy of a cz , with an average trigger and an overall heavier slide than stock 2 , good for some slow long distance shoots but not the best gun to swing fast between ports and slow to cycle compare to stock 2 . The new trigger group that folks like so much now has become a standard thing on tanfoglios , my new stock 2 in .40 did came with the new model trigger system on it.

yes cuz you will be shooting different bullet length unless you will load short for your Limited , and cuz they are different animals. Just my two cents about this models : If the plan was to shoot limited division only, than nether of stock 2 in large or small frame would have been equal to the limited custom model They are different animals, the limited custom has the benefit of larger sight radius and comes with the single action trigger and mag well , all you need is a trigger job If the plan was to shoot both limited div and production considering you will prefer to shoot major in limited, than stock II large frame would have been a god compromise. And last the Stock II small frame limits your choices and it would be preferred only for production div { minor loads} , max length of bullet on small frames .40 seem to be close to 1.140 . You could shoot major with it and show up in limited division but the short length of the cartridge of small frames will also limit your selection of powders in order to avoid overpressures. I purchased the small frame .40 myself as a dedicated production gun only , there is something I like about .40 minor in production

cuz some 180 grain bullet behing 3.1 grain of Clays could make you a happy camper in production , at least it worked well for me .

The overall travel of the mag release in this guns seem to be very short , removing more spring tension from it may just make things worse as far as magazines falling out, as mentioned before the mag release is not as firm if anything you may consider an extended aftermarket one .

I also did open a bit the holes on all my magazines on the side that engages the magazine catch using a dremel hard rubber polishing wheel ,that is about 0.122” and it just made it more easy to reload when the mag is fully loaded .I believe this is just a touch bigger that what the cuts on the side of the magazines are .In the same time I would suggest it may also be worth to disassemble the magazine catch/release and see if the plunger spring inside is full of dirt and need be clean .I do stretch that spring on my guns just to ensure the magazine catch has less wiggle as possible in its position Hope you know how to get to it but is just as simple as removing the trigger bar first by driving out the trigger roll pin and pulling the trigger bar plunger make sure you don’t let the small parts inside the mag catch fly away is hard to find them if you do .Don’t ask me how I know about it

If I recall correct the limited custom II has cuts on both sides of the slide which will give you an overall lighter slide. I have seen the limited II comes in both finishes here in Canada { I am talking about Tanfoglios here not sure how EAA models are though }.