Longhill

Is there a reason why you're running two sizing dies. The trim die is also a sizing die.

What is the diameter of the moly bullets? Larger than 0.401

I have extras, PM me your info.

I finally got one too, works great as well. One complaint is that its noisy. Broken washing machine kind of noisy.

After many thousands of rounds, no problems.

Yes, it fills the case pretty full. I went down half a grain and my rifles function without any issues. Less overflow to clean up on the press. Load up a few to function check.

Not sure if you figured out your issue. I had a problem similar to what you are experiencing. I was doing a primer tower change from small to larger primer. And installed the primer tower backwards. Oops. It's easy to do as there is nothing to index the primer tower. Flipped the primer tower around 180 degrees and it works as it should. Just another thing to check that wasn't mentioned already.

In my experience with the CasePro, it doesn't correct the ejector nicks on the cases.I ended up using a cordless drill and a flat file to remove the nicks. Sometimes being a cheap bastard pays off. Live and learn.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25387/catid/43/Primer_early_Warning_System_Parts Follower Rod 13707 $7.99 More than likely if you email customer service, they will send you a new one.

How does auto drive work with say a trimmer (1200) in a station after size & deprime with 223 brass ? Works great and long as you have it setup correctly. Sizing die first and then the trimmer length and don't forget to lube those cases. Setting up the auto drive is pretty tricky in itself. Also what happens when say a berdan primed brass comes into contact with the decapper with an autodrive system? with lee dies does it push up like it would by hand? or does clutch slip? what about dillon dies? With a Dillon decapper, it will make a hole in the case and pop out the berdan primer. With the Lee decapper, the decapping pin should slide up. If you don't catch it you'll end up with a lot of smashed spent primers in the cases from the swager. YMMV, the auto drive clutch needs to be set up just enough pressure to size the case. Start off at a lighter clutch setting and tighten up the clutch bolts if the clutch keeps slipping. If its set up correctly the clutch will slip if there is a complete stoppage. What would the preferred bullet feeder be for my caliber choices? I'm cheap so I'm using a Mr Bullet Feeder powder funnel and bullet seater with a Hornady bullet collator(really noisy). I just sat down and size & deprimed 5000 pieces of brass on one of my 650s.. that was fun... my arm hurts! Been there and done that, I only use mine to deprime/swage or size/swage. Even at 900rph it takes a long time, but my arm/neck and shoulder are never sore like before.

Make sure the unit is unplugged. Open the controller box by removing the four screws on the top of the box. Remove the two wires that are connected to the red button. Make a connector to fit between the two wires you removed from the red button. Reinstall the top cover with the four screws and you're done.

Its all a learning experience, do it a few times and its becomes second nature. The built in swaging is worth the expense of the press as others have said. Time wasted in something you can't afford.

Any more progress reports?

I have one in a 550, used the small swage for 5.7x28 cases and it works well. Tried the large swage for the LC 308 cases and not so good. Tried to hand prime with the Lee Auto Prime and was 90% no go. Then again tried the Super Swage 600 and didn't have much luck either. Ended up reaming them out. YMMV

Mine does it all the time, makes for a more consistent powder drop especially with fluffy powders like Unique. Make a lot of noise during operation, so I know its working.

Don't forget to lube the cases, and be mindful that the torque at start up may surprise you(did me) when you flip the red switch. If the trim die is not tightened(locked) down enough, it may loosen the trim die in the tool head. Something new I learned, setting up the trimmer.

Once you have a 1050, you will learn how it works. It becomes easy to do caliber conversions. Swapping shellplates and primer feeds are time consuming. Doing it a few times and it's not a big deal. Swaging on the press, nothing else to say. If there is a negative, it's only the amount of money for components needed to keep running.

Go to Lowes and try the Bissell OptiClean bagged canister(retail $129) now clearanced for even less. If you can find the demo unit, find an outlet, plug it in and be shocked at how quiet a vacuum motor can be. The suction sound is actually louder than the motor. The vacuum motor has five adjustable settings. At the lowest setting it works great with the Dillon 1200. The sound difference between a ShopVac and the Bissell is really unbelievable.

Thanks for posting the results.

As a temporary fix... How about using a metal feeler gauge to close the gap, cut and punch a hole in it and replace. Looking at the manual(pg 27), I don't see a wave spring in the drawing for that bolt, but sure looks like one would work to lessen the gap.

Check the indexer stop screw....back left side of press. There is a allen head screw under one of the locator pins, that limits how much or little the pawl pushes the shell plate when the handle is returned to the top position. Worth checking if it has loosened.

First set up your 1050 so it works manually with the handle. Swap to the PW, loosen the clutch so you can turn the PW handle manually. Check to see if you are at full stroke, is the sizing die touching the shell plate?(no case inserted) Rotate the crank 180, is the press close to hitting the stop? Don't adjust the dies, because you set it up manually already. The hard part, try 1/2 a turn at a time. Check function. If the die is not touching the die at full stroke, adjust the front threaded in or out till the case just touches the shell plate. Rotate the crank 180 and adjust the rear thread in or out till you get close to the stop. 1/2 a turn at a time. Check function. If the throw is too short, make an adjustment to the bolt on the center crank. When its set up correctly, the press should cycle smoothly. It a real challenge, once its set, never have to do it again

I experienced similar issues. not enough crimp was one issue. The other was the rim of the case was damaged probably during ejection after firing. Try placing the case base first into the case gauge, it should go in 1/3 of the case length into the case gauge. If not, it got a burr, ding or dent on the case rim. How to fix? Lee's case bulge buster and 9mm Makarov factory crimp die body (special order). Works great and cheap. On the more costly side is the CasePro 100, its a roll sizing machine that reforms the base of the case back to factory specifications. Cost around $800 with one set of dies. Works great too. There are lots of posts on the CasePro in this website. Search it out.

The Trim die are purchased separately and are caliber specific. Your guess is correct. Order from Brian

Check the indexer stop screw....back left side of press. There is a allen head screw under one of the locator pins, that limits how much or little the pawl pushes the shell plate when the handle is returned to the top position. Credit due to SD1