Pop N Fresh

word on the street is the 17L is about to get another run http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2014/04/27/nra-2014-glock-confirms-upcoming-factory-threaded-barrels-17ls/

Better late than never, Dillon case lube was ordered and used. Problem solved. Thank you all for the help.

thank you all and I'm glad for a consensus, time to order me some dillon case lube!

actually the shoulder part is still in the die in those pics, this time both parts came out

die was clean both times, first time this happened no lube in the die, this time I had hit a qtip with oneshot and run it around a little. That pic is the first time this happened, this time it looks like the bushing is seperated where the shoulder sizer part starts. I can see a sliver of light/case through the bushing like it was starting to seperate into two pieces which did not happen the first time.

to be fair I think I'm the problem not the die, just need a little help. I have lots of 357sig brass so I grabbed a 357sig conversion barrel and decided I would play. I purchased the Dillon 357sig die set for my 650 and during setting everything up within 4 cases the bushing inside the sizer die came out on a sized case and proceeded on it's journey to the second stage. I was using hornady one shot on the cases (not much but enough to slick em up I thought.) Anyway I notified Dillon and of course they said send it back, which I did. Just tried again, this time I ran the brass through a 40 sizer first to size some and decap. My theory was maybe I could better feel what was going on as I sized this time. first case sized great and went right into my case gauge and back out no problem. second case felt a little harder to size but not much and the bushing came out with it. I've loaded tons of 40, 9, 45, and 38 but this is getting a little crazy any help would be..............helpful.

I grabbed some myself last week. had no problems so far but the 1500pack/150tray is strange. I blame the metric system.

always sent MO/Check and they've mailed on the same day or next day if it is trackable, never had a problem and dealt with many honest people. that being said if they aren't willing to work with you so you're both comfortable don't do business with them

welcome, wish my dad was Benny Hill, bet you got all the girls <insert Benny Hill chase music here>

just picked up 3 22 and 3 17 and a lancer 20 ($9). thank you much sir you are a gentleman and a scholar

is it a problem when filling the primer tubes, as in when you push the tube down on the primers they catch on the tube and get stuck in the plastic part?

nice, thanks pensfan

randy I have guys I shoot with that buy their oakley's from Academy Sports and file the receipt away. Academy accepts and exchanges oakley's with scratched lenses for being defective.

I have had the same pair of wiley-x romers for many years, bought them in a 5 interchangeable lens set and have worn them till the last set of lenses are getting ugly. Caught a chunk of gravel right to the glasses one day riding on the highway passing a big truck doing a bit over 70.................. vision is too precious for cheap eyewear.

so if you stretched/bend the wrong way you could muzzle your leg as well............................

I'm a fan

primer locking things up maybe?

not the frankford arsenal then. I've been using it for years TRYING to break it so I have a decent excuse to get the big dillon, I overfill it till I have to run it while pushing the lid down to get it to seal/close. I run it all weekend overfilled and it's still going strong........ maybe I can just sell this thing.

for smaller stuff I've always used a felt wheel on a dremel and some flitz

I have a jp silent spring in my ar10 build, it is indeed silent and kinda strange to get used to

if you had a little room could you rig up a bit a of pendulum with a paper plate in the middle to swing back and forth? unlike a steel plate you could keep hitting the paper plate without disrupting the motion too much

They usually only plate the places that are really exposed to the elements so not the fire control group, firing pin, springs, etc. They remove the internals and chrome the gun then put them back in at most shops. I had a glock 19 chromed by virgil tripp many years ago when the finish had worn off pretty good from all the love and attention it had received, they pulled all the components off, chromed the slide, then put it back together. The only "small" part off the slide that got chromed was the extractor. I believe there are finishes that are often used to cover all parts but doubt chrome would be one of them.

welcome and nice to have you here

craftsmen from sears they cost a little extra but you break them and they give you new ones for free, sooner or later you break them not for this job very nice to have 1. don't over think it as it's pretty caveman, I've used a delrin punch for sights I couldn't put in a pusher (ruger mk's) before it's a hard plastic that will not mar and is much cheaper than brass 2. get that front sight down fairly hard, I usually use a tiny pair of 3" vice grips on the front sight tool for that little extra leverage 3. loctite that front sight

I have a few udies and they can all be set hard on the shellplate with the nut on the top. Don't be afraid to to only have a thread or so engaged with the nut. It should size farther down than the rcbs though, could the die be tilting as you size because it's not being held in the toolhead tight enough? Making sure you run the die all the way down to the shellplate would stop that I would think. On a side note, why the undersized die on a 9mm? I used to use one on 9mm but have stopped and went back to a dillon (used to use an rcbs without issue as well.)