Glockman1000

About 180 with no rounds in the face, minor 135 PF & major 170 up to 184 PF from that day alone. I did change recoil springs for the different loads. Will do some more testing this weekend. Plates kept bouncing back up with those 184 PF loads Loaded some minor loads with W231 & 4.5 grains under 124 MG HP's. Major Hot load was 7.4 grains AutoComp with the same bullet. Some came out over 1500FPS.

Guilty as charged.

If you are comfortable shooting your G35 & handle it well enough to compete then go with what you plan. I don't have any experience with a Timberwolf frame so I can't comment on it. Have you held one/shot one to make an experienced choice? I built mine for similar reasons you did. Cost! A comp/barrel combo & a slide ride sight on a G17. Had some extended parts & a magwell so I put them to use. An extra $600 allows me to play in Open on top of the cost of the gun. If I decide to leave that division I can always sell it as is or put it back to stock.

Got a Glockworx extended ejector & finally got a chance to test it out today. Kicks the brass further than the original with the same load I tried last week.

I was told I would get a replacement when they get them back in stock. I didn't send mine back they just asked for a photo & my order/invoice number.

I would advise against using any of that brass, the brown discoloration is a chemical reaction, that is the breakdown of the copper separating from the zinc that makes up the basic composition of brass. I use a citric acid bath to clean my cases & when I see the discoloration like that I pitch them in my scrap can. If by chance you do load them they can & will fail at those points. I have done thousands of cases with citric acid to help me sort out where the brass my be weakening by giving me a visual cue. If you feel the spots with you're fingers they will feel like bits of rust & that is not good. Try this, get one of those tiny packets of unsweetened Kool-Aid, put some distilled water in a small container with a handful of those cases in there. Soak for 5 minutes, rinse them out & feel the cases for rough spots, the citric acid in the Kool-Aid will help determine if the cases are bad.

You got your bases covered, one thing I would check is to grab a handful of bullets & randomly measure them with a caliper for consistency of diameter. Mass produced lead bullets can vary to a point. I do agree with the dirty barrel conclusion though, I only use lead in my G21 with a factory barrel & after 50 rounds there is lead build up in the chamber mouth. On my .40's I use lead but with KKM & Bar-Sto barrels. I throated both barrels to give me options when loading my cast bullets. I would suggest a standard crimp die, roll crimp dies are meant for revolver loads.

You mentioned lead so I have to ask about how you mentioned that they do not go into your barrel, OAL could be the cause but what about bullet diameter? Measure a jacketed round at the crimp shoulder & compare them to your lead load. What type of bullet profile? Round nose or truncated can make a big difference in OAL. Measure the diameter of your lead bullets are they .356 or larger? A crimp adjustment may be what you need. As was mentioned earlier, lead can build up pretty quickly & the chamber mouth could be really dirty.

Have you changed your loads? Check for any burrs on the guide rod or if the spring is binding somewhere on the guide rod? You mentioned a captured rod, maybe the coil towards the muzzle end is creeping out of the tunnel & is catching where the nut or lock for the guide rod is, I had that happen once, & it caused all kinds of problems with cycling. Finally decided to go back to my home made uncaptured guide rods.

I think they should just make the leg solid no lightening, just lighten the main body & leave it at that.

Sounds just like my Uniflo, the Hornady CAPD kit will work on it. It comes with everything you need to mount that on your LNL. It even comes with the Powder Measure stop in the kit. I used all the screws for the linkage to mount to the Uniflo. I just took off the rotor arm & bolted everything on. Looks like you have an extra powder measure!

It was the recent design, I'm just waiting for the replacement.

Continued A few things to add, I use a Glockworx Competition spring kit, Glockworx V4 Connector & factory striker. This is for my Open Glock so I wanted as light as I could go. I've used Glocks for so long that I tried my friends Fulcrum set up & it didn't appeal to me. So far I've used Winchester & Magtech primers in my loads with no light strikes(fingers crossed) & a box of American Eagle 9mm I had sitting around. I can't get Federal primers so I use what I can get my hands on. The trigger in this pistol is from a Gen 2 that has a nice flat cruciform area. With this trigger I am able to get under a 3lb. pull. I tried getting the Gen 3 trigger down to that weight but the lowest I can get them down to is about 3 1/2lbs. I compared the two versions & the Gen 2 is flat while the Gen 3 has what looks like a raised area on the "wings" of the cruciform. I don't know if that is what gives the higher pull, but what I observed. Anyhow, if someone has a Gen 2 trigger that they want to sell or trade for a Gen 3. Drop me a line!

Thought I'd add on to this, I call it the $1.00 Glock trigger job.

Yes only 6, obviously I dry fired when I got it to see if it functioned, went to the range to chrono some steel loads, mag loaded with 10. On the 6th round the trigger did not reset. I cleared the gun, went to the table, took off the top end & the striker leg fell out on the table. Put my factory striker back after that.

I had a V2 before & that would never reset. Took a chance on the V4 & it is a vast improvement over the V2. I use it with a Glockworx spring kit & my pull is 2 3/4lbs. Factory striker. Not gritty very smooth.

Lone Wolf striker 6 rounds & this happened. They will send me a replacement after they get them back in stock.

If you have an old Uniflo it should work with the Hornady Case Activated Linkage kit. I'm not sure if it will work with the old Hornady powder measures. Hopefully someone will chime in on that.

Here is the "Hybrid" or my Frankensteiner Powder measure.

From my other post: One other thing you might consider, RCBS came out with powder funnels that expands & bells the mouth like a Dillon funnel does. It should fit inside the LNL powder die & function the way the PTX funnels should have. It is designed to work the case activated linkage kits for Hornady & RCBS powder measures. Here is a link to one for .45 caliber, there are other calibers available.

One other thing you might consider, RCBS came out with powder funnels that expands & bells the mouth like a Dillon funnel does. It should fit inside the LNL powder die & function the way the PTX funnels should have. It is designed to work the case activated linkage kits for Hornady & RCBS powder measures. Here is a link to one for .45 caliber, there are other calibers available. Off topic but I was considering this option of powder funnels because I wanted to make use of my 70's era Uniflo measure on my Dillons, I bought the Hornady linkage kit, modified it to work on my Dillon 550's, so now I have a case activated hybrid powder measure system that I can use to load extruded powders. For me the Uniflo is more accurate than the Dillon measure. I can take it off & change calibers easily & I didn't have to invest in updating my powder dies or funnels, the adapter my machinist buddy made goes on to the Dillon powder die & uses the Dillon funnel. I should get the micrometer for my Uniflo tomorrow so I'll be using that from now on.

Another way to dry wet cases, if you have an old pair of sweatpants, cut the legs off, tie one end off, dump the cases in, & shake rattle & roll. The thing I like about Lemishine or citric acid based cleaners, is that it can give you a visual cue to where you brass is weakening. If you see splotches of discoloration after drying them, that is where the brass is giving way, when I see brass that comes out that way, I know its time to save it for the recycling can. No reason to take a chance on a split case or separation.

You mean Typhoon season!!

On the connector side of the ejector housing, I use an Xacto blade and break the edges off the top, what happens is the cruciform gets hung up on the area that it needs to ride on to return fully. My setup is a Glockworx spring kit, with a lightened striker. Returns with a nice "click" 2 1/2 lb. pull. I do this will all my Glocks. Use the blade & drag it along the edges, don't dig in or you might create a burr. Just follow the contour, doesn't look important but it can really give you a gritty feel if you don't do it right. If you want it really smooth, polish & break the edges on the trigger bar cruciform that runs on this path too. Get a small vise lightly clamp the trigger bar in there & get some fine sandpaper maybe 600 grit, cut it in to 1/2" strips then fold it half, shoeshine the whole cruciform area withe the exception of where it engages the striker leg. Once your done, Flitz the whole thing. Takes a little longer but, it will really smooth out the trigger. You don't feel all these imperfections with stock springs since your trigger finger is feeling the spring's compression, once you use lighter ones, the imperfections will really stand out.