ManNamedJed

Cool. Thanks for the replies!

I'm considering getting a 6.5 Creedmoor rifle. I'd like to load for it with my 550. Dillon doesn't list a 6.5 Creedmoor caliber conversion. I understand its nearly the same as .260 Rem - any reason that caliber conversion wouldn't work?

4.6g TG with MG 180gr JHP or Berry's FP at 1.13 works well in my TS.

I load .40 on a 650 with Dillon dies. Thousands of rounds through it now, no problems with bulges. Very low percentage don't pass case gage. This is all with mostly glock brass left behind by cops at our ipsc range.

I had to pay $47 to have my used 550 overhauled. Not that I'm complaining, its a great deal, but I'm curious why many seem to get it for free?

For the average home loader non-carbide dies are fine. You will have to lube to size regardless of which one you get. If you want to size your own brass you'll likely want a separate toolhead for that step. Also you'll likely need: Brass trimmer Case Lube (dillon lube works great) case duburring tool Tool to remove primer crimp if you have crimped brass The .223 reloading tutoral on ar15.com is excellent BTW.

I imagine 124 or 147gr ammo would be most likely to comfortably make minor. Maybe pick up some of that before the big match?

Several of mine kinda jam up when you hit 18rds. I think the follower can catch on the transition between the tube and the extension. Try pushing the round down a few times, or tapping it on a table while you load. Once you get 19 in the 20th goes in easy. Once you get it to load a few times, it gets easier. Like someone else said, if the mag jams up halfway through while shooting, round all the edges on the follower. I had many headaches before I figured this out.

The TS is designed for regular length .40 ammo. In fact, you wouldn't be able to get the 'long' .40 ammo to fit in the mags. I shot about 1000 rds of factory ammo through mine when I first got it as I wasn't set up to load .40 yet. It had a few hiccups, but I attribute that to break in. It seems to feed smoother with RN ammo than FP.

Mine has taken a LOT of fiddling to get reliable enough for competition. Out of the box the trigger wouldn't reset 10% of the time when live fired (no problem with dry fire). Several mags would not drop free. ALL the mags would jam up when the follower nosedived. Now I have problems with 180gr HP bullets bumping the slide stop and locking the gun open (I bought a case of bullets, so I kinda need to make it work). TC bullets sometimes won't feed. If I had known, I would have gone another route, but I LOVE my SP01 and thought it would be an easy transition. I'm working on the grip reduction now and its making a big difference.

5.5gr Titegroup with a 180gr Berry's makes major out of my Glock 35 w/Lone Wolf barrel. UHM yeah I think/hope you meant 4.5

Its probably the competition hammer - it changes the sear angle where the safety engages/blocks it. If you don't want to wait, removing a bit of material from the ear of the sear, or the block on the safety will likely fix it. If you take the slide off and work the safety, you would see where its hitting. However, yeah it should have been right from before it was shipped to you.

4.6 of TG with 180 berrys for 170pf out of CZ TS. COAL was whatever SAAMI is, can't remember at the moment.

I switched from 335 to Tac. It meters well, is cheap, and seems a bit more accurate.

Wow, so more than I was expecting. Those of you who mentioned the hammer slipped, but didn't specify if the gun went off, did it? Has anyone had a slip from about half cock and it didn't go off?