testosterone

mike frets over it, that's why he destroys...

I have a relatively slow draw compared to most, but it is very rare for me that I have a draw where it "feels" like I missed it in any real way(ie, it needs to be adjusted before I start shooting). I'd say its like 999/1000 I get somewhere between perfect(whatever that means) and "good enough"...which i would define as whatever is wrong I do not notice it as being bad or imperfect. I am SLOW to first shot compared to most though...

of course, Pat has made me several. I think the first grip based on that xframe grip was on ty hambys gun in morro many moons ago. If you want a non squishy version, tell pat you want a 'Vic Pickett' and he will make you something like this...

You are referring to the factory X frame grip that comes on the 460 and 500's for anyone wondering and wanting one. They do come with finger grooves which grind off easily with a bench grinder....

If you dig through this whole thread, you will find refer to when the pres of cci/fed said component prices were permanently increasing 15% from what was 30 bucks a thousand. The bottom line though is, primers for reloaders are production over runs of commercial ammo. Commercial ammo demand is still breaking records. Even if distributors are only getting whacked an additional 15% somewhere else in the chain they are getting jacked up... A very large gun store near me tells me they are getting charged 60+ a 1000 at this point from distribution channels. No idea whats true though anymore....

Its hit and miss. I have, in years past called for a part and told they dont have it only to call next day and talk to someone else and have them find the part. Ive also had them tell me 'thats a factory part' and not sell it, call again, and it gets sent ..

One of the theoretical improvements that I think started on the 929's is the cylinder stop has an angle on it that is something close to the ball cut, this way its not riding in on the trailing side before dropping in. most of the parts are mim though which is not "bad" on its face necessarily, I think i've seen some arguments from prominent gunsmiths that they can be better from a consistency point of view.

with and without, as you can see this is not a slight adjustment, its a significant cut. the image looked more focused on the phone, but if you look at the factory cut, you can see how the lead in runs and how the final resting spot is not centered on the notch(before of after), but the wider/deeper notch makes it less abrupt.

i can take a picture a little later, the scallop cut is increased pretty dramatically. As jay said, this is a modification made to alleviate chamber skipping. Personally, every single n frame I have ever owned developed chamber skipping sometime in the first 10-20k trigger pulls, some much faster, like a 625 flaking out after less than a 1000 rounds 3 stages into area7 and I was actually not a thousand miles behind lentz for once... Dave has commented that nobody is as abusive to the guns as I am, but I think i'm partially just unlucky.

i feel like, for a very short period, randy was doing this? am I misremembering? they weren't uncut, but they were aftermarket cylinders? Its not that hard a part to make right? its not trivial but its not super intricate either. Not a machinist so I am probably underestimating it. I suppose its all about the tooling/machines you have available.

9mm was always sub par because its not a straightwall, and from the factory the 929 cyl are really 9x21. 38 super is straight wall and, i may be mistaken, but the cyl is actually cut to proper length of the case. 38 sc or lc both have to jump a gap, there are no cylinders cut to those lengths.

nah, its more of a micro thing than a macro thing, like even within a 12 round drill, something that's over in 6 seconds. So sure, its an across a long time manifestation, but thats not really the problem just a symptom.

I get this, the thing is anything I do works OK for awhile then falls apart, if I am not consciously in the grip then what happens down range is poor. Squeezing very hard does work though, this is undeniable.

Pm me, I have an unmolested 929 barrel.

extremes are really objectively bad in all my guns, the 147's tumble in my production/co 9mm's as close as 2 yards. Its really bad. the double plated 124's tumble in both my 2011 as well, but they are going so fast it doesn't matter for most uspsa distances... berrys 158's in 38 special are very very good, possibly as good as fmj's. One who came before spent alot of time developing a bianchi load with 158's for his k frame. His formula always was, crimp until it tumbles and then turn the crimp back 1/8th of a turn, and that will be right, this def puts a groove in them, but it produces the best result in his testing.

cylinder gap mainly and specifically in case of a revolver...

The main issue for me regarding this is if you have more than 1 gun you just want one load that makes chrono, when I was looking at doing this it was just one gun so that was a deal breaker. Mike ended up selling me a 929 cylinder years later and that gun became a 9mm after all, but I never did the conversion based on having an odd gun out on the load data.

Curious how this will turn out, several people that would know have told me this commonly is a -50fps vs a native 9mm cylinder on the smiths, but I don't have any first hand experience though.

I have been thinking alot about this for months. Knowing the skill and doing the skill are not the same thing. There is alot of jibberish and physical skill development stuff that many books have been written about, but its basically why anyone excels at some skill and others just don't quite get make it happen. I know it works, because when I do it right, that intangible sense of everything "just happening" and the result on timer+paper are objectively excellent.... then not being able to reproduce it on demand(this is not problem with the technique, its doing it on demand) is why I suck at it.

I want to hear what mwp and alaskan454 have to say as they are easily the fastest revolver trigger pullers, though like mwp says, speed isn't everything which is true but its easy to say when you are the fastest. Ive never pried on either of them about this. I have tried 100's of variations and all i can say for my part is, the enos description commonly finds a good result, if you have a firm neutral grip the gun will return faster than you can pull the trigger. Assuming you have a reasonable grip on the gun it will return from recoil very fast... if your 2nd shot is high you are simply not looking the gun back to where the 2nd shot needs to go, it requires almost no effort and is basically an intention that points the gun to the right spot... I suck though, so there is that.

The best way to get more of these made is have every single person you know at SHOT go to the ruger booth and ask them when they are making more. These guns are improbable with a microscopic market.

Years ago sometime around when co was a provisional division, Mike Carmony made the argument here that the divisions should be rationalized into optics/metal sights. We are seeing this playout right now and the chaos that half measures created. CO/production could have been the model for that. Anyways, like mwp said, if the goal is more shooters then its a lol, if the goal is to have more national titles at stake then i guess sure?

The end. Revolver is easily the most gigantic pain in the ass division to get started in, open is a distant second, but i can buy, right now, a complete fully functioning open rig and even major pf ammo, all over the counter and have a 100% competitive setup. You cant even buy an 8 shot revolver except by luck. Then, unless you are particularly inclined, you wont know one of the three gunsmiths that can make it not suck and then you wont be able to get enough primers to shoot the thing unless you are well connected.

What the man said, if you are slower its cause you are doing it totally wrong/havent been taught the right way.

60 bucks shipping each way + whatever the repair is, and you'll have a working gun. Getting off cheap. When I first started shooting in a more significant way a competitive elder told me a gun is a collection of parts, nothing more, they will wear out and break, probably at a bad time, and if you compete the money you spend on ammo will dwarf the cost of guns by a gigantic margin. He was right, its not even close. I get, not everyone's financial situation is the same of course. Buying a new 627 and sending it out for treatment is 2k, easy.