testosterone

Mike hasn't bothered to change, rich has told me a few times he'd prefer a cmore except for collecting x's. Its hard to argue that there is anything wrong with a slide ride except battery life, and the plastic bodies do eventually fail around the adjuster screws, and they are a bit of a pain to zero, but once they are set, they hold zero perfectly fine.

This guy knows things, pay very close attention.

Yep. You and I have discussed, and a few times that I have talked with him, every single time, he talks about the performance on demand. Always an anecdote about the old time exhibition shooters being able to do it with an audience vs doing it when nobody is looking, this seems to heavily inform how he approaches things, he thinks of it as a performance for an audience...or a personal story he relayed that him and elliot were in some field shooting bowling pins for practice absolutely smashing it, then a guy rolled by in a truck and stopped to watch and suddenly they couldn't hit a thing. Like mentioned, context, its one thing to do it on the home range when nobody is looking, something else totally when it counts. I think he will definitely go sub 2 and 1.90 is a good a time as any.

Start? Lol...When did mwp ever stop? Its likely he can do it, right now. I've mentioned here before, if you stalk mwp video(there is very little for a guy that has been dominant for going on 10 years) there are a few things there that are astonishingly fast and would, in context, obliterate some standing records.

I ordered a bunch of clips quite awhile back in 2022, they never came as far as i could tell and multiple emails have gone unanswered. I gave up. I have purchased many items years prior and everything always came promptly.

I would love clips that were finger loadable unloadable but also low wiggle.

Tk told me no, dave said he could but he doesn't have a jig setup to make it easy and told me to go to joe. That was last year, you may be able to convince one of them to do it though, its worth asking.

Unfortunately not anymore, its just been in the last week he announced he is not doing trigger pins anymore due to his eye sight not being what it needs to be to do the finish part of the job. Still would ask if i were op tho, and if you dont care about a possible line or mark of some sort let him know. He did 2 for me last year at the same time and it took about 2 months door to door. He is saying he is going to post instructions/pics of the process for posterity sake. I have a very talented machinist near me who will do this work so long as he has instructions, so im hopeful there will be at least 1 option left that is not the factory which is no longer a warranty fix. A bridgeport and proper tooling is required to do this job.

yes please. I have a power speed that pat made for one of my other guns, but its an exact fit for only that one, I'd very much like something that I could put on there that was adjustable. I have a racerx and find it impossible to get right, if the gun does not come out exactly perfectly straight it drags and it is very distracting.

he is indelicate to say the least. comparing your video's to what I see dave do in person, you positively baby it by comparison. i probably have some video of dave, everything is 101% power both ejection and a violent slap shut, he also gets on the trigger before its closed so some of the time you hear the cylinder free wheeling as the gun is coming back up....

probably but I wouldn't. I have incidentally shot upside down ones(long colts, lot more case space) and it definetively and authoritatively banged and recoiled alot harder. will you crack a cylinder? probably not but do you really want to bust a cylinder for a 25c round?

i bought 5k each of the 115 and 124's, price per round gets better as you order more. the only thing I have noticed is an occasional sideways primer, like 2 in 1k. both loads make 128 pf in 4" cz's and m&p's and are otherwise perfectly fine. I can't load them for less than I can buy them now...

i have been using 8.6 of 3n38 with and extreme 124 concave bullet, the case is basically full, i load them 1.17 so they won't chamber in my wife's cz. these are pretty hot, at a7 chrono this weekend they were 175 pf. I do think this can come down and the gun might behave a little better, though doing a measurement drill(shoot 1, and just see where the dot stops) the gun is literally perfect, when I get into sub .20's there is still oscillation happening that is definetly not there when its more like a .23 split. Roughly, anyone know how many fps .1 gets me? with my minor loads in n320 .2 is usually around 15 fps. I have alot of room to come down, i am perfectly comfortable running like 168 for purposes of chrono, im thinking i can come down to 8.2 and be in the ballpark.

Its not nothing but also probably not a factor one way or another, its acclimation and personal preference, how you have barrel setup, weight of gun is etc... I have alway shot heavy bullet fast powder because that was the formula in 2010 when i started, some years back i shot eric leaches gun at a warm up range at an irc, and he was shooting a 130 going pretty fast and really liked how it felt, a much quicker snap/return vs the shove of the heavier bullet. I stopped practicing in 2015-16 years ago, and coming back to some shooting this year with meaningful practice something i really am not able to overcome is an oscillation in the muzzle, ie dot return dropping slightly below before coming back. Rationally i know i am doing that, but i can not feel myself doing it, i just see the result in the dot tracking and has me grinding on changing, but its slow and expensive to change gun configuration.

This is 100% the paradox of "going fast", i have heard more than 1 world beater explain this exact phenomenon. It is a cliche to say on an enos forum, but you see what you need to see, EXACTLY, and not a pixel more, then shoot immediately.

i think you shoot to the level you are. changing the equipment is 5-10% or there abouts, the less familiar mechanic of the reload, getting the same grip, some nuance of the way the trigger pulls. what will happen is, at the end of the match, you will have 4-7 things that "happened", glitches bobbles, etc...that would not have happened had you shot something you were more familiar with.

thats nice to hear, local to me there are 89 still. I have seen them online for 69.99...

For sure. if someone made sub 30c ammo that actually went off and shot a good enough group i'd never reload again. For production/co for my wife and son, i buy supervel, i buy 5k at a time and its .23c a round delivered. with current component prices there is no point, it goes and groups well enough.

You can make major in a 38 short colt case with dozens of different 9mm major recipes. Likewise, you can do same with 38 long colt and any number of 38 super major loads. 929's are properly a 9x21 cylinder, this brass can be obtained from starline easily enough and translates over to 38 super -.2 to .4 charge and will also easily be major. There used to be a guy that shot uspsa locally that had a 9x21 2011 because he bought a an actual 55 gallon drum of new 9x21 lapua brass at an auction for next to nothing. I have been thinking alot in recent days about revolver loads and because I have a machinist local to me now that is exceptional and fast, experimenting with some things. I have been shooting a lot of 2011 in 9 major(173pf) lately and I will never not be shocked by a gun that, when shot, if you do nothing but have a firm neutral grip, returns the dot EXACTLY to the same spot, it just seems impossible yet that is exactly what it does. I want a revolver that will do that, not that i think it will help me do any better, my good days are way bahind me, but its like an academic challenge. There are 9mm steel loads that are deep in minor pf that do work comps and popples correctly, i don't see a reason why a 2011 comp could not be on the end of a revolver barrel that has some popple holes and achieve the same thing.

I agree. The only options I see are the lee 38 sc die or possibly the hornady 9x21 die which they list as a roll crimp die.

change the crimp die to something that does an actual roll crimp.

also, was wondering if you pull those bullets you show there that creeped out, what are the dimensions? and what is the case dimension before and after pulling? its academic, just curious.

btw, i should be very clear about specific mechanics here. If you are loading 38 special with a dillon crimp die, the crimp is 2 stages and whether you adjust it into the 2nd part of the crimp(that does the roll) is of course load dependent, it starts as a taper crimp, then past a certain point it becomes a roll crimp. This is a handy design for reasons that are self evident. what you probably can't do is get a 9mm deep enough into a 38 spec die to get to the roll. Also, a dillon 9mm die because its purely a taper crimp, you can't get a roll with it. If you want to get a true roll crimp on a 9mm you will need a proper die to do it, and a lee FCD is also *not* a roll crimp. If you are running an FCD and getting a line in the bullet you are potentially causing another problem for yourself. This thread has made me do more homework, the only thing I can immediately find if you want a proper roll crimp on a 9mm that will probably do it is the hornady 9mm new dimension die for 9x21. Lee also makes an actual 38 short colt crimp die which should be a roll crimp as well.

I think i may have commented here in the past about another approach on this. My first mentor worked up 38 special loads for for bianchi, his k frames would should a 2" 50 yard group with a berrys 158 bullet and n320. I was looking back at old conversations he had and the method he used for bullets with no groove on revolvers was to crimp until the tumble, then back off 1/8 of a turn. This is exactly how I loaded all my 38 spec and long colts and they never slipped. Try that maybe.

9mm revolvers is administrative. If you shoot multiple other guns all on 9mm then its just one press. If you shoot alot of volume and dont want to have reloading be part of the weekly schedule buy brass in very large volume and load it all in a few weekends. Quantity is a quality all its own.