fireboltxl

Thanks, I figured someone was running something similar.

That was my concern, having another full sized optic.

Any specific recommendations for an offset optic. Running the HoloSun 512C for a main optic. Should I try a Holosun 510 or 507. Worried the window on the 507 might be to small for an offset?

This is my gun. I have only had a chance to shoot one match with it but I must say I like the optic. As I get more rounds down range I will keep updating this post.

I understand they are still 30-60 days out. They had a pre-production sample at the Crimson Trace 3 gun match but I didn't go to that.

Well that is interesting. I currently have two RTS optics... Hope they continue to repair the original designs...

Thanks i'll take a look at that one.

What thumb rest is that? Looks great.

Great info, thanks for the link...

So my question on that, would I just skip the sizing die? How does the brass get deprimmed, can I back the die out far enough to deprime but not change the shape of the brass? Have looked around, quite difficult to find reloading parts right now.... Surprise, surprise... I will ultimately want to purchase a sizing die, I have good access to once fired 9mm...

Conducted many experiments with mags, springs, etc, the ammo is the one constant that keeps nose diving. When I use factory ammo that does not have the hourglass it runs like a champ, when I use my buddies ammo that does not have the same amount of hourglass it runs like a champ, so it is my ammo. The only difference is the shape of the brass since we have the same bullet and OAL. As I mention ones in the OP he uses a Hornady sizing die, his brass has the same taper as factory brass. I was thinking about the shape of the brass. If you take your hands and hold them up so you can see the back of your hands, then put your thumbs together at the knuckles, there is likely a tiny little gap you can see daylight through, now slide one hand up long the knuckle. See how they interlock and then force must overcome that locking. I think this is exactly what is happening in the mag.

Interesting enough, when the bullet slams nose first into the bottom of the feed ramp it will set back about .020...

I need some help. I have been reloading 9mm for a couple years now on a Dillon 650xl with all Dillon parts (just as is came from the factory). Up until recently my 9mm was all for Production minor loads shot out of a Glock, so if it could fit in the mag and case gage the Glock would shoot it. However I have moved to Open shooting 9 Major. After a significant amount of testing and experimenting I have found that the hourglass shape of the 9mm from reloading is causing me feeding issues with my 170mm mags. Is there any way to eliminate, or reduce the amount of hourglass shape I am getting from my reloads? A fellow local shooter has as Hornady sizing die and when the two rounds are compared side by side the visual difference is amazing. Both rounds are loaded at OAL 1.165 with MG 124gr CMJ bullets, with mixed range brass.

Shoot it indoors. 9mm with 8.0gr. I have never shoot it indoors...

Funny I run 3N37 in my Cheely gun and I never see any flame, not even on video.

I have a pretty new Cheely open gun and I can tell you it is fantastic. It runs like a top and I have had zero problems. Matt is also a very good guy to work with and will answer any questions you have.

I just got an open gun from Cheely with the RTS mount set up. Check out his dealer page "best present ever" As for reliability I think mounting the sight in the slide is going to cause some reliability issues, local guy has sent back 4 delta points from a slide ride open gun so not sure any of them can take the abuse. I like the RTS so far. The one caviout is that the dot is not fully adjustable like the slide ride is. It does sit much lower than an upright slide ride and I like that about it. I think the lens is almost the same size as the slide ride, but not sure. John

Cary a crossbreed super tuck with a Glock 19. Good holster and comfortable.

I have been usig the Inov-8 Mudclaw 333 and they are great. Very comfortable and great traction on any surface, including plywood ramps. I would highly recommend.

Can you refresh my memory on the Timing Drill? I use to have all his DVDs but I sold them. Thanks Timing drill is to fire "loaded" mag into burm with a very light grip, then another loaded mag with a medium grip, then another loaded mag with a firm grip. Pick the one you like. Then using that grip work splits. Again with loaded mags 2 sec splits, then 1.5 sec, then 1 sec, then .5 sec, then .25. Pay attention to grouping on target. Target is 10 - 15 yards, and a loaded mag for me is about 15 rounds. Drill is about 200 rounds fired. I use three different targets to keep track of things. www.doublealpha.biz/tip_burkett.htm#Timing Drills

If you have a load picked out now, you need to go and run the Burkett Timing Drill. I really think that this helps the shooter get a better feel for the cadence of the gun and feel. You should run this drill every time you change something on the gun.

What load did John recommend, I would start with that. He is well known in the NW for his 9Major guns.

I had a similar experience with a stock G34 barrel, had about 30K rounds through it when it trouble started. Could not put 5 out of 5 rounds on paper at 40 yards off a rest. Bought a KKM smith fit barrel, after it was fit gun started grouping as expected at 40 yards. Not sure what caused the issue, but did not want to compete at major matches when I could not trust the gun, so made the change.

Blade Tech Drop off-set works fine for my Dawson FO front sight.

I can only comment on the KKM smith fit barrel, I am very happy with it.