COMATZD

WW-Z is going to be a movie? Awesome, I'm reading it right now.

Ok, so where would one find the proper test lengths for various springs? Does Wolf have this info or something?

I got some of the Ear, Inc solid plugs about 5 years ago for when I ride my motorcycle and started using them to shoot with as well. I love them so much that I bought a set with speakers to use with my Ipod. I have been thinking about getting another pair with the passive filter so it would be easier to hear conversations.

I think this is the key to this whole issue as well. At the club level power factor is usually taken at face value and in larger matches the chrono tells the truth. If a popper fails to fall from a proper hit, this seems to be a failure.

I'm a bit new to this, but I've seen problems with poppers as well. I like BritinUSA's proposal with the addition of requiring at least two hits for #2. These two suggestions would allows RO's to make a REF call if they can clearly determine proper hits and/or allow the shooter to more fairly decide to move on or not. If you can chrono a sample of the ammo used, then one could argue that two proper hits have certainly tested the calibration of the popper, as shot. This goes back to the fact that an RO can visually inspect the equipment to determine REF. It seems more fair to test an ammo sample (which theoretically won't change) than to test the popper which has now been affected by at least two hits.

A barcode is just a different visual representation of characters (usually numbers). The scanner acts like a keyboard to the computer, if you open any program you can type into, the scanner will 'dump' the scan data in just as if you typed it. Almost any program will 'read' scanner information (notepad, wordpad, word, excel, etc) If you are trying to have a program look up data regarding the movie itself based on the UPC barcode, that is something different.

would you mind posting a picture of that thumbguard thing? Might be exactly what I am looking for. Is it a lot of fitting involved? Do I have to mill my frame? Is it a complicated procedure? I attached a couple pictures of mine. My hands are kind of small and my thumb rests on the guard. I can't tell you how it mounts, I bought the gun with it.

So just to clarify for me because I may have misunderstood previously: a swinger that would naturally come to rest in a hidden position (even if it is still swinging when my COF is complete) is a disappearing target and incur no penalty if missed or not shot at?

Happens to me all the time on my motorcycle even if there is a sensor! I drive thru them too

What your describing shouldn't be due to high primers, high primers could cause immediate ignition as the bolt slams into battery. I'd check the primer after it goes 'click'. If you're not in a match and can extract it safely just see if there is a good primer strike. The primers could be too hard for your gun to reliably light off and you'd need a stronger spring somewhere.

This should be fun!

I have never used I-Tunes, I never agreed with their DRM schemes; so I've always used Winamp . Its free and has really good portable support. I bought the pro version because I like it so much and use it every day.

I think the clip draw idea may be the best. Just something to locate the finger consistently and keep it off the slide.

I've had the same issue. It was usually the one of the last few in the pickup tube. Like SS said, make sure the plastic end of the tube is seated tightly against the aluminum.

I've had my 92FS for nearly 20 yrs and likely over 20k rounds. I have been shooting it in Production because it feels right (and after 20 years I can practically shoot it blindfolded ). I just stepped up to Open, so it will now be placed on standby with the other toys.

Excellent. I'll just stick some material on mine and see how the different ones feel. Thanks again.

I just made the jump to an open gun (STI/Dawson, 9mm Major) and it has an SVI trigger. The 'length of pull' so to speak is a bit short for my hand and I was wondering if anyone knew the measurements of the short, medium and long flat trigger inserts. I'm looking for distance from flat face to the back flats (not the longer rounded part) of the inserts I'm not sure which one I have and I'd like to mock up some spacers to see how things feel before ordering a new insert. Thanks.

This is how I run mine. First set up the outer belt the way you like it w/ holster and pouches. Then put on the outer belt, you will see where the inner belt should line up so the ends butt together. Just make a mental note where this is so you can put the inner on the same every time. Mine ended up starting at my outer hip seam, but end where my buckle usually is. I don't have any weird gaps and everything stays put.