Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

WyoBob

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About WyoBob

  • Birthday 05/21/1947

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Central Wyoming
  • Interests
    Pistol shooting, backpacking and fly fishing

WyoBob's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. Nope. I live in Buffalo.

    Bob

  2. Would you happen to live in Greybull?

  3. I bought a Tokyo Mauri MEU (1911) a few years ago and I think it helped me quite a bit. I have a plate rack in my garage using 5, 5" high density foam "plates", hinged with duct tape, in my garage. (Distance is 21 feet.) We shoot 5, 6" plates at 7 yards at our local plate shoots and practicing with the airsoft has helped me quite a bit---and---it's fun! As I haven't upgraded to all metal, I epoxied some lead sheet to the dust cover of the airsoft to increase the weight. In the last year, I've been pretty busy and haven't practiced much with the airsoft. I do quite a bit of draw and dry fire on my "plate rack" (right before a match) and find that very helpful. I haven't had much time to practice live fire but, between the airsoft and dry fire, I manage to win my fair share of matches. In the last year I shot 3 local IDPA matches (local being, 45 miles away). Lots more complicated than plate shooting but lots of fun. "Running and gunning" is a lot harder than standing in one place and shooting plates, that's for sure. WyoBob
  4. I did quite a bit of research over the last couple of years on 124-125 grain LRN bullet loadings for my STI 5" 1911 (and a M&P and CZ75 Compact that I no longer own). The load I now shoot in my STI is 4.0 grains of W231 with either a 124 gr TL RN Lee or a 125 gr. conventional Lee RN. Out of the 5" barrel, it chronos 1,012 fps and is very accurate. Loadings from 3.3-4.2 grains were accurate in all pistols but the light loads didn't function 100% in the CZ. From my notes, 4.4 grains of W231 is the maximum load with W231. WyoBob
  5. Here's an online cost calculator: http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp I'm loading 9mm for $34.00 per thousand. Of course, I'm burning primers and powder I bought in the last 1 to 2 years, using range pick-up brass and casting my own bullets out of free wheel weights.
  6. When buying .45 once-fired brass, be aware that Speer makes both large and small primer brass and you probably don't want to have that mix. I ordered 1,000 once fired Speer and 70% of them were small primer. Brass marked "NT" have small primer pockets. IIRC, Winchester and Federal make such brass and probably more that I'm not aware of. The Speer I had wasn't marked "NT". Bottom line---things sure slow down loading 45's on a progressive when you come to the small primer brass. "A-MERC" brass---I agree with everyone's opinion. Junk. I just got off the phone with a friend of mine who's buddy had a stoppage at their local IPSC match. Case stuck very tightly in the chamber and they had to pound it out. It was AMERC. He reloads a lot but had never heard the warning about the brass. (He doesn't "do" the internet
  7. I never tried Windex but did use low odor mineral spirits for a time. I use lead bullets tumble lubed with Lee Liquid Alox and the brass does get sticky with LLA from the loaded rounds dropping in the catch bin on my progressive and then dumping them into bulk storage. I now lay 10 rounds in a row on an old bath towel, roll them back and forth to check for any problems (lead "ring" around case mouth, cracked case mouths, etc.) and then take a folded "microfiber" towel and lay across the row of rounds and press down and roll them back and forth. I don't use any solvent. The microfiber towel does an amazing job of cleaning the brass and even cleans up the bullets a bit. I then transfer the rounds into plastic ammo boxes. WyoBob
  8. It sounds like you're using way too much "One Shot". I like using it and I use carbide dies. My LNL AP seems to run smoother when the cases are lubed. I also spray my cast bullets before sizing in Lee push through sizers. One can lasted for 20,000 cases and bullets so, as you can see, I'm not using much. WyoBob
  9. Scotch makes a easily removable tape (using the same adhesive as "Sticky Notes", I think). This is what I use on my left lens. I have a lot of it left over from my metal airplane building days (to tape a bunch of rivets in place on vertical surfaces prior to riveting.) It doesn't leave a residue and comes off easily. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...nsparent_tapes/ Go to the bottom of the page. WyoBob
  10. Eric, I'd forgotten about the double stack. Thanks. Surge, I mentioned "re-training" to point the finger toward the target when I talked to him on the phone the other day. Flex, as you said, he just needs to "retrain". He doesn't shoot in any formal IDPA/Ipsc type shoots. Just local stuff. He's like the rest of us, though. Just wants to get better. Thanks, everyone, for all of the helpful advice. I appreciate it. WyoBob
  11. Make sure all traces of copper jacket/plating are removed from the barrel before shooting lead. I agree, once you start with lead it's a good idea to stick with it as it saves you the "clean the copper out of the bore" routine. After a few thousand rounds of lead bullets, all of the bores in my various pistols seem to smooth out very nicely and cleaning any leading/lube fouling becomes easier. Find some copper "ChoreBoy" scouring pads, strip a few strands off and wrap around a brass brush and use this to remove lead. Be aware that some "copper" scouring pads are copper clad steel. You don't want to use those. I always use the C.B. dry. About 6-8 passes and my bores are slick as a whistle. I then run a couple of dry patches through and re-assemble. WyoBob
  12. Thanks for the comments, so far. I'm embarrassed to admit that, though I've known my friend for over 40 years, I was wrong about how much of his index finger is missing. Now that I think about it, it's at the second joint from the tip of the finger that he's missing. Nothing left to operate a trigger. So far, there's no comments on the left hand index finger on the front of the trigger guard. From my fumbling around, it seems to add stability for me. Another thought I had was adding a "Clip Draw" to the pistol: http://www.clipdraw.com./store/index.php?r...ion=show_detail That might keep his finger from contacting the slide and slowing it down. What are your thoughts on this? BTW, he's shooting a double stack STI in 9mm, an Edge, I think? WyoBob
  13. I have a good friend back in Nebraska who is getting into shooting steel with his new STI. He's right handed and right eye dominate. He's also missing the tip of his trigger finger to the first joint. As a result, he's used to shooting by using his middle finger and does a pretty good job with rifles, shotguns and handguns. But, he's having a problem with his right index finger touching the slide on the STI and slowing it down to where the pistol malfunctions. He received some advice to switch over and pull the trigger with his support hand index finger. I didn't think much of that idea as it seems very cumbersome. My advice was to dry fire and draw practice quite a bit and to concentrate on keeping his finger straight and off the slide. Not too elegant but all I could really come up with. I also thought I'd recommend that he use a grip where his off hand index finger pulls on the front of the trigger guard. I came up with this idea as I tried to duplicate the way he has to grip the gun. Because this grip is higher with the right hand, when wrapping my support hand around my right, it feels really weird and very unstable. I know part of this is because of the way I've been gripping my 1911's for thousands of rounds so the new grip feels weird as there isn't good "nesting" of fingers possible. But, pulling back on the trigger guard with my offhand index finger seemed to increase stability quite a bit. Am I on the right track in advising him? Any other ideas? I think he'll be in good shape if he can "train" his right hand index finger to stay clear of the slide. WyoBob
  14. I tried to do enough research on airsoft's and the gas to use in them to make a good decision. I bought my TM MEU knowing that 134A was the recommended gas and that propane was not recommended. I decided to go with propane due to the lower cost and availability. I can't go to a local store to find 134. Coleman fuel is everywhere. The costs for 134A seem to vary wildly. From .023 to .052/ml. (without shipping costs) Propane is $.006/ml when bought at Walmart. So, after 10 canisters of Coleman fuel through my MEU (with no problems so far), I figure I've saved enough money to buy a metal slide. I had a Marvel Unit 2 for awhile and sold it and bought a CZ and the Kadet kit when I was shooting my CZ. The Kadet was more accurate and a very well designed unit but I eventually decided I prefer the 1911 platform. I decided to try airsoft as opposed to buying another 22 conversion. The MEU was cheaper by half than a 22 conversion and, when you factor in the cost/availability of 22 ammo, the airsoft is a clear winner in the "bang for the buck" department. I figure, in all of the airsoft shooting I've done, the savings by not buying 22 ammo has paid for the MEU. When you figure in the costs of driving to a range and the ability to shoot airsoft inside where it's warm in the winter (an important factor in Wyoming), the airsoft really comes out ahead. Bottom line: I figure I've saved enough money shooting propane in an airsoft that if it blew up tomorrow, I could buy another and still be money ahead. If the slide ever cracks on my MEU, I'll go to a metal kit and, in the long run, will still come out ahead dollar wise and will practice much more since my practice range is right here at home. WyoBob
  15. I ordered my MEU from Trinity: http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-1229-tokyo...irsoft-gun.aspx WyoBob
×
×
  • Create New...