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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

spook

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Everything posted by spook

  1. Barry, the trigger on my gun is about 8 pounds . I think that if you will open Jerry Miculeks gun, you'll find a pair of Jerry Miculek springs . Vince, you're right. I will use the trigger, but the springs will have to go. Man, revolver rules are funny when you think of it, aren't they? You can exchange so much really relevant stuff, yet something as trivial as a sideplate screw (aftermarket) could be your ticket to open class .
  2. Ron thanks, you guys made my day I'll just go for it.
  3. You just have to really like the tactics of revolver shooting to do it in IPSC/USPSA. So many times I hear: "Man, I'm glad I'm not you on this stage...all those reloads...." I don't get that. I think the people who don't shoot revolver anymore do.
  4. Patrick thanks. I would consider it a non-issue as well. Thing is, I will most likely attend the European Championship in 2004 shooting revolver. I was just wondering how strict they are at those matches. I mean, technically speaking I'm probably not even allowed to shoot both guns with my Miculek springs. I've already sent S&W an e-mail asking if they ever produced a 625 with a serrated trigger. I don't care if it's a 625 .45 LC Mountain gun, as long as it's a 625 and the trigger's serrated, I'll take my chances Thanks for the replies, Bjorn
  5. Vince, thanks. I also post on www.smith-wessonforum.com from time to time and it's amazing to see how many different variations of S&W revolvers have been made. Limited runs of barrel lenghts, and stuff like that. I'll post the question over there to see if they know. I hope so, cause I just spent $90 on that trigger
  6. Ok, I just ordered an extra serrated trigger for one of my two Smith & Wesson 625's. I bought them both used (the guns, not the triggers). One had a serated trigger, the other had a smooth trigger. Both shooters I bought them from said they changed nothing from factory configuration (exchange parts etc.). I don't know if S&W ever sold 625's with serrated triggers or not. If not, am I still allowed to use it? The rules state I can only change sights, hammers, cylinder releases and grips. It says nothing about triggers, so my guess is it's not allowed (which would really make me sad, 'cause those triggers aren't cheap . Besides, serrating isn't going to give me any advantage, right? I just want it on both guns to make them feel the same) . Another question that popped up is cylinder chargehole chamfering. S&W currently sells their guns with chamfered chargeholes. Mine have no chamfering (old guns). Can I do the chamfering myself? Can the chamfering be a little more than S&W factory chamfering? The rules say you can modify your cylinder to accept moonclips, so I would think that means you can also chamfer the chargeholes? Argh...these rules drive me nuts! Please help me out! Thanks, Bjorn
  7. FWIW, I read in a thread long time ago that Rob Leatham uses a FO and just puts some black over it ith a marker to get "the best of both worlds". Fast to pick up. Not as annoying on long shots.
  8. I use eyeprotection. No earprotection, unless working with the timer. I use full moonclips, 'cause the empty ones are a pain
  9. Ron, I think it is a visual thing. I remember shooting a hybrid gun for the first time. I thought: "Damn, this thing is flat, but the dot is still all over the place" With iron sights, this is even more true. Watching the sight go up and down is easier than having your hand thrown out of allignment (at least for me). BTW, love your new signature
  10. I have to agree with Paul. Besides, the reholster procedure takes quite some time (even when practiced a lot) compared to just turning around and running. Just my humble, humble opinion though
  11. OK, did the math. If Brodie was 0.01 second faster on the first stage (I just picked the first) he would have been 2nd overall. Brodie was 0.0006 behind Todd in the final results. Unfortunately timers can only make 0.01s measurements. 0.01s is about 10' for sound to travel. That's the smallest amount a timer can 'pick up'. If timers were analog, or would be able to measure mor accurately, Brodie would have been 2nd if his time was 7.3899064667 instead of the measured 7.3900000000. That's 0.000094 second faster. With a perfect timer, that would be a difference of 0.094' (little over one inch) from his ears. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I often screw up calculations, because I'm kind of chaotic And I'm not very familiar with the imperial system . So, Duane, you're right. It'wouldn't have made a difference, because: 1- Timers aren't that accurate (The timer should have been held 10 feet total further from Brodie's ears, then from Todd's ears during the whole match), and; But it's still a tiny difference though. BTW, sorry for the huge thread drift.
  12. Duane, that was my first reaction exactly. But the math attached made it plausible/realistic. I'll see if I can dig it up somewhere (it was on the old board).
  13. For longer distances I like the Turn, run with gun in safe direction. It's fast. Eric G. uses it. That's all the info I need
  14. Congrats man. Something worth "braggin'" about. Keep it up.
  15. Oh, now I see. Wow! Nice gun. Nice pics too.
  16. I too cannot see a goldang thing.
  17. Roger, I've tried to grip the gun as high as I could, but it had two major disadvantages to me. The first was that the trigger reach was too short. It kind of cramped my hand/trigger finger. Second disadvantage was that it got my trigger finger in the position where I could only pull the trigger very high. I solved the first problem with a "custom made"grip. I just put epoxy on the grip and kept gripping the gun, to make a grip that was shaped to support the way I grip the gun. It looks like crap, but it works. I got the tip from Saul Kirsh during one of his courses. This led to a higher grip and better support in live fire. I'm still working on getting my finger lower on the trigger. I'm going to take the trigger reach thing in consideration, though. It makes sense to me. Thanks, Bjorn If Ed's timer counted triggerstrokes, I can see how that could have been an advantage. He could have got the first shot "for free". But still amazing and something I doubt other people can reproduce. BTW, The sound thing even played a role during the world shoot. Andit does matter. FWIW, I saw some calculations once on this board. It came down to this: If the timer was held 5 inches closer to Brodie McIntosh's head during one of the stages in the WSXIII, he could have beaten Todd Jarrett in the final results. They had the exact same amount of match points I believe.
  18. Guess it's just going to take more work, analyzing and practice. I'm still 24 so, I still have many years to improve my shooting First I thought it was because I have really large hands and long fingers (big movement). Then I bought Miculeks tape. That guy has big hands too! Can't be that. I thought of the N-frame vs. smaller frames too. It probably makes a difference, but I still think the 610 and 625 are the best setups for IPSC revolver. Plus Miculek shoots any revolver fast. I did order some serrated triggers to replace the extra smooth triggers on my 625's. See if that makes a difference in finger placement during live fire. Ron, how do you like revolver IPSC so far? Really have to work on those long courses, don't cha? Guys, thanks for all the quick responses and insights. Back to the trigger. Bjorn
  19. Sorry for the thread drift, but how in the holy Lord's name did they measure that accurately in those days? .10 splits are incredible.
  20. Ron and Neal, thanks for the info. I know that ultrafast splits are not what wins a match, but I just want to be able to do it if I want to, if that makes sense. I don't have the illusion that I can beat Jerry Miculek in a couple of years or so, but I want to know why he can shoot .13 splits with a .357 magnum snubnose revolver, and I can't. I guess that just stubborn ol' me. If there's something I can't do and I want to be able to do it, I get to the bottom of it and find out why I can't Neal, you told the story about the free ammo to me before. Pretty cool how that ability just sticks like knowing how to ride a bike. That could also mean it's more of a mental thing, than a physical ability.
  21. Bubber, no problem. Great stuff. And 30 in 5 seconds, wow! Those are .16 splits. Awesome!
  22. Bill, thanks. You're probably right. Fast splits don't make that much of a difference, but .23 splits max is too slow. And if you can do 40 (and so can I) in dry fire, and you can do .20 splits in live fire (and I can't), that means I'm doing something wrong. Hits are more important that speed alone, I know. But I have the feeling I'm too slow on the close "arms lenght" targets. I gives me that "unsmooth" feeling.
  23. Ok, I'm having a little bit of trouble with fast splits. I can't make it happen. My fastest splits are .23. The thing is, in dryfire mode I can pull the trigger 50 times in 10 seconds. That means I can do an average of .20 splits for 10 seconds. I think the reason my splits are so slow is that the bang and movement of the the gun influence the smoothness of the "prep" (reset + partial pull) of the next shot. It could of course also be anatomically, or whatever. My question is this: Would you be so kind to pick up your revolver (if you have one 'course ) and warm up a bit by pulling the trigger (make sure it's empty;))? Now watch a clock or use a timer and see how many times you can pull the trigger in 10 seconds. Post the results in this thread to give me access to this valuable info . If you know your fastest split times (live fire) please post them too. With this info I'm going to find out if I'm just not able to do it physically, or if the actual firing is making me stop the pull. Thanks in advance guys and gals.
  24. Flex, squeezing isn't gone. You just have to learn how to squeeze faster now . Miculek emphasizes continuous trigger movement (as shred said earlier). His philosophy is that to move continously is easier than to move, stop, move, stop etc. There's less tension, so it's easier to increase speed. Only thing I find hard is to do the smooth thing in actual live fire. In dryfire I can pull the trigger 50 times in 10 seconds max. In live fire (no target, just speed), I can pull six times in 1.5 seconds (that would be 40 times, if I would be able to keep on going). Guess the smoothness is disturbed by the bang and movement.
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