entropic

I'm not sure what issues that would cause but I definitely wouldn't use it like that....your rounds would be headspacing off the extractor. Did you mean to get a throat reamer and used a chamber reamer instead?

I'm really looking forward to this match! Hoping the weather hold out...

Dryfire it a bunch and then measure it. Colt sear springs seem to be the standard, but whatever you have in it shouldn't be a source of inconsistency unless it is rubbing somewhere that it shouldn't be. It's just wearing in the rough spots.

These cases wouldn't normally be sold. I got a bunch of them for free because the plating wasn't done correctly. I'm being my cheap self and trying to use these more than just once. The plating is flaking off in big pieces. And yeah, Every one of them is being shot in the same 686.

I've heard I can get a second loading out of them without sizing. I may try that and scrap them afterwards if they don't clean up with steel media.

I was thinking about that. It may be a good first step to try. I have access to some acids but that may be a last resort. As i understand it, anything not using some sort of electrolytic process will embrittle the brass by leaching the zinc....

Has anyone had luck with this? I have a nice big lot of same headstamp nickel 38Spl brass that wasn't nickel plated properly. I shot it all once and nickel flakes are coming off the brass, which I know will ruin with my sizing die. I'm looking to save the brass. Any ideas?

If it sets primpers off, it sounds good to me. I have used 12.5/17 for years.

Sounds like the matchdot is the way to go, especially if the big dollar aimpoints aren't the end all be all of red dots. Thanks for the advices. See you at the match.

Is parallax also a problem with a Cmore? I know they're a pain to get zeroed to an inch at 50 yards, but is that the only reason I don't see many people using them?

Hi Bianchi folks. I'll be shooting the cup for the first time this year with a Ron Powers 686 that a very generous friend has loaned to me. I'm trying to make use of an old Japanese tasco that I had laying around, but it leaves a lot to be desired in lens clarity and size. What do most people prefer? Thanks for the help. Here is what it will be going on:

Are you talking about glock parts with the intent of cleaning, or 1911 parts for surface refinement? Walnut or more abrasive media?

I've had some trouble with plastic base pads coming off during a reload, and all the mag guts and ammo pouring out the bottom of the gun. Probably user error, but it would be worth it if it fixed the issue.

Why not get a CZ in 9mm instead? Even if the 97 you found is a great deal, it won't take much shooting to recover your money in brass and bullets. And you will have a more enjoyable, more competitive gun....just my .02.

"Demand has remained steady over the past year for the stock II" Valuable information there...

I had this for problem for years. I even started a thread a while back about how it would never go away. This year, I started to take dryfire and other practice a little more seriously, and all of the sudden it's not an issue anymore. It's like my eyes/mind adjusted after they really got the message of what I needed to do. Who'da thunk?

Years ago, when I first joined BE, one of my first posts was a complaint about problems with a CZ I bought. Little did I know that they have awesome customer service and your best bet is to contact them with issues, not announce it on a forum.... Live and learn

+1 on the One Shot. Just try not to spray it inside the cases...although they say it won't interact with powder.

Indeed. Must have been a great driver to deserve that kind of tribute.

I bet the lands are still sharp. In my experience with an M&P, there are parts that will wear out, but the barrel isn't one of them.

It was a great match. A nice mix of different stages with some really good long courses. Even managed not to get rain on Saturday. On a different note, can someone help me find the number for stats? I had some scores entered incorrectly. EDIT: Found Ray's number. Hopefully he can help.

Thanks for the ideas guys, but I think I figured it out with the help of one Mr. J. Kuhnhausen. He describes a problem on page 147 or volume 1 of his shop manual that he calls "sear bind" caused by an adjustable trigger with the overtravel screw all the way out....well it turns out that my overtravel screw was all the way out (probably from the last cleaning the gun got). I would have never thought too much overtravel could be an issue, but I was wrong. One sign or this issue was that while holding the trigger down, slide forward/hammer down, and slowly pulling the slide back, I could feel the disconnector disengage from the sear through the trigger. I did nothing but adjust the overtravel screw and now even a hard slingshot will not make the hammer follow.

Pulling the trigger very slowly, there seems to be plenty of neutral engagement

The main cut or front face of the sear takes up 3/4+ of the sear nose. There should be plenty of sear to engage in the hooks..... I'll take a look to make sure but I'm pretty sure there is plenty of engagement.

The new parts are all unmodified. The hammer only follows with the trigger held back.