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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About entropic

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    Sedalia, MO

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  1. I was thinking about picking up the 1.5-8X for precision carbine matches...223 gas guns shooting out to 600. I ended up going with the 3-15X because of the lack of parallax adjustment on the 1.5-8. It probably doesn't matter as much in 3-gun, but has anyone noticed reticle movement with eye position?
  2. I notice flakes mostly when shooting lower pressure TG loads. I'm not sure what would be causing your loads to burn differently for no reason. New lot of powder, different primers, exposure of powder or primers to high humidity?
  3. I needed a 223 loading block one night and figured I would whip one up in an hour.... 5 hours later I was really wishing I had a DRO, or better yet CNC.
  4. It will have a DRO soon enough. I'm glad I've ran it without one for a while though... it has really taught me to pay attention to a lot of little things at once.
  5. Tri-top is pretty straight forward. Would probably take 2 or 3 hours. Does Cheely still do quick turn around work on slides?
  6. I had a guy tell me that Ed Browns are the best shooting 1911s because they use left handed rifling in their barrels.... I asked how many rounds he shoots every year.
  7. The mold the manufacturer uses is for 147s, but it is never exact. Then add the coating and you have up to 3% difference. You can ignore it and load normally or assume the chrono man will pull a 149 bullet and load to a safe velocity to make power factor. Certainly no DQ to worry about.
  8. I've seen a slide fracture like that as well. At some point a while back the factory got the tempering temp or time wrong (just a guess) and some older ones do this. Luckily you will get a nice new one as a replacement... CZ is good like that.
  9. http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmdrag-5.1.cgi http://www.schuemann.com/Portals/0/Documentation/Webfile_Barrel%20Twist%20Rate.pdf 16 is enough to stabilize some really long pistol bullets. You'll be okay.
  10. I'm done doing these cuts for a while. I've done it 3 times with minor variations. The first time took me 12 hours for just the cuts. The last took about 8 with setup, cleanup, and finishing.
  11. I do everything without a DRO. I will need one for some of the more intricate projects I have planned. I will end up replacing the whole machine since the Burke mill is tough to retrofit. Overheard clearnace is the only reason I didn't get a bridgeport in the first place.
  12. Here is part of my shop. Hopefully the bike will be replaced with a lathe in the near future. Just finished a friends edge:
  13. The factory serrations are 1/8". I extend them with the same spacing. Here is another one I did last night with some new carbide tools... I will never use HSS Cutters again if I don't have to:
  14. Thanks. I never liked how the rear sights hang off the side on a tri-topped slide. I also never liked how the front serrations do not come back far enough. Here is how the rear sight fits up.
  15. I will post my projects here as they are completed. Right now I have have some basic tools that will do quality work. I'm Mostly working on my own blasters but have starting doing some free work for friends. Here is a slide I did some cuts on. I will get to fine tune the process and cut out a lot of the setup time when I do it again. Here is after bead blasting. There was some slight oxidation after blasting, so I will need an air dryer before I can start playing with phosphate finishes. The rear serrations were recessed from .025" down to .002" with the front and rear edges radiused and "dehorned" to reduce thumb drag malfunctions. The front serrations were extended with a taper and fade in depth. Also tri-topped, with a slightly different chamfer next to the rear sight. Weight was also taken out under the rear sight. I call these the "Gnyra" cuts. Stay tuned, I have lots more stuff in the works, Dave
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