entropic

Out of the the things you mentioned, the only thing I would use it for is polishing a feed ramp. Get stones and fine papper for all that other stuff. It comes in handy for many thing but you will probably mess up some things in the learning process.

The tool is worth it unless you can make your own.

I would think it would be no problem to fit the new frame's barrel contact surfaces to the upper you have.

I'm guessing it is a stainless/chromed gun. It is possible to go too far very easily. I'm sure you learned that in Jerry's video. Only you can tell. if there is too much slop in the hammer and trigger pins, you can shim them. I only know about doing this to a Ruger revolver, but triggershims.com has some information on tightening up these tolerances with relitively cheap shims. Why are you worried about the single action? Is the creep showing positive or negative engagement?

My 9mm STI Sentry was about a half ounce heavy at a major match last year. I thought getting bumped for weight was only for people who put tungsten guide rods in their guns and didn't weigh them to check. I was wrong. I finished the year out with a Briley aluminum guide rod and will also tri-top it soon.

When scrap brass was really cheap and sorted brass was selling for record prices in 2009, I made decent money to fund shooting matches while I was still in college. Sorting buckets of range brass on my friends kitchen table was making us $50/hr profit each, and it was easy to sell. I look at it differently now. I know a guy that sells once fired, sorted and tumbled indoor range brass (9mm) for $25/k and always has stock. Time>money so i shoot it at leave it on the ground. You can probably make a living from it, but to truly automate the process will take some time and money depending on your skill. Don't expect to get rich off it.

Last time I sorted and tried to load 45 SPP brass, it was almost all crimped and impossible to load.

3.5lbs for semi-autos in single action and revos in double action.

Yes. A Friend emailed the NRA and recieved an official response stating that the bushing guns are approved for production. I'm still going to be shooting a revolver next year in production...

I'd rather allow 10 round single stacks in production minor. Single stack is almost as lonely a division as revolver at some major matches, and a 1911 has no real advantage over a cz, tanfo, or glock with a good trigger. SS already has a weight limit, dimension limits, external modification limits, etc, much like production.

I'm pretty sure mine is a 6.5" model from the factory.

Longer ammo and tuned mags is what you need to make a 9mm 1911 run reliably. Try a 9rnd metalform mag... That magazine feeds JHPs in my Sentry all day long, but any 10 round mags seems to cause nose dives. I have been through this process and it was a big waste of time and money.

Okay, Thanks. Hopefully this doesn't shorten the double action stroke too much.

This issue is with a shadow. I've heard of single action falling into the double action and I know that is an easy fix. This problem is the reverse: the double action falls to single action before firing. I'm just wondering if this is a pass of the stone type of fix or if it will be more expensive than that. I just traded for this gun and I'm trying to figure out if I got someone's dremel deluxe model. Thanks for the help, Dave

First off, I'd like to thank you all for your help in the past. This part of the forum is one of the things that got me interested in Binachi in the first place. My first year was a lot of fun and now I'm planning next year already. So here it goes: I have a S&W model 27-2 That I am planning on shooting in production. I have a few questions for any Bianchi revo shooters that might be here: 1. Where do I get a production holster for an N-Frame Smith? Looks like there may be a Bladetech that I can make work, but is there someone who will make custom kydex holsters? 2. Is there a gunsmith without a long backlog who can do some trigger work for me, maybe in the Kansas City Area? 3. Does anyone make speedloader loading blocks for an N-frame 357, or is this something I'll have to make myself? I found the Five stars but am looking for something in plastic and a little softer on the wallet. Thanks for the help!

Is there a specific rule or am I at the mercy of the official who inspects my gun? Can I replace the parts with s&w factory parts?

Quick question as the rules are a little vague: Can you modify or use aftermarket hammers and triggers (say in a S&W 686) under the production rules? The only rule I see about this says: "Wide target style hammers and triggers, if included on the firearm as originally manufactured are permitted." I obviously don't want a wide/target hammer or trigger. I wanted a hammer with no spur and a trigger with no serrations, but this is what my old smith came with. Can I bob the hammer and grind the serrations off the trigger? Thanks for the help, Dave

I was thinking something like this: http://acguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Limited3-84.jpg

Thanks for the insight. I just ordered a non tri-topped slide with bomar cuts from STI. I figured I would Tri-top everything forward of the rear sight, and just use a tall front sight? Do you think this would this look silly on a single stack gun?

I'm going to try my hand at building a gun again. It will be a 6" slide. Here is my question: I'm trying to choose between two STI slides: the tri-topped slide with bomar cuts and the same slide without the tri-top. I plan on tri-topping it, but I'm wondering if the bomar cut is the same depth on the non tri-topped slide. Thanks for the help.

Sounds like it needs accurails! And maybe an accubushing! Mine did the same thing and it shot knots at 25 yards. I wouldn't worry about that at all.

It is available to the general public. Go into gunbuilder and select 5.4" single stack. It claims it is legal and is the longest that will fit in the USPSA box. I'm inclined to believe them.

Bingo. SVI even lists the 5.4" gun as "USPSA SS Legal". Also, square trigger guards are legal and not the original design or available on service pistols (that I know of).

I shot 165.3 and it should have been more like 170. In fact, I only made it on the first 3 shots because my bullet weighed 231.6. A couple other guys on our squad were cutting it close with their tried and true loads as well.

I think he means: Grip the gun as hard as reasonably possible while shooting, without degrading your grip strength over the course of a match from overexertion...