LikesToShoot

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm already registered with them but didn't know about a forum discount. How do you apply for that? Thanks, Steve

So the 5.25" worked OK with this 4.5" tec lok holster, cool. Looking at Bladetech's web site they appear to only list the Black Ice 5.25" with adjustable stingray loops but the 4.5" with many more options. Brownell's has the Black Ice w/ tek loc but doesn't state which gun it fits. I guess I'll contact Bladetech to be sure I get what I want.

It came with a pad I installed years ago but I don't see it listed anymore. You may want to check out the Speed mount pads from Limbsaver.com.

You might want to check out a product called: Easy Glide Recoil Pad Coating. IIRC, Limb Saver used to sell a coating that you could brush on like finger nail polish and it helped reduce the snag. Just apply it to the top and sides so that when the gun is mounted the rubber can grip and not slide off. .

I picked up a 9mm XDm 5.25" and was working up a load with my stash of moly Bear Creek 125 gr RN (actually 128 gr). With this factory barrel I'm on the lands at 1.090" so I'm loading them at 1.080" and it's working OK using WST. A quick chrono this evening had a few rounds 3.5 gr WST at 976 FPS (plus several errors), eight shots of 3.7gr WST averaged 1030 FPS, 3.9 gr had too many errors, (bad angle over screens) and seven shots of 4.1 gr WST averaged 1075 PFS. I only had hand full of the 3.7, 3.9 and 4.1 loaded up and ran out of day light real quick. Tomorrow I hope to shoot some 25 yards groups and see what works best with this gun.

Agree. I just picked up a 5.25 and installed a PRP Extreme trigger and would love to get some cheap trigger time. I bought plenty of .22 before Hussein was elected the first time so I'm set.

If your slugs are hitting where they need to be at 50 and 100 then you're not missing a thing.

Since you've had Burwell work before it would be nice to read your comparison of the two. I'm looking forward to your review.

Nope, not IMHO. There's an old thread somewhere here about the Sportsman as a base for a 3-gun build. Factory extended chokes are cheap at $16 @ But a man of your stature need not be troubled by few $$$$$. See ya this weekend.

To help speed the sign up you can print out this release form and have it filled out before hand.

Here's something I think you will really like: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=166311

Rob, That looks really good, nice job! You really don't need to replace the follower but if you want one that's easy to see or just want to spend money that's cool. I've found that using longer follower made me lose one round count. I had a FREE NC low drag that I wanted to use because of the easy to see color so I cut it down to get my capacity back to spec. How many rounds does yours hold now? I use a +2 from Roulette that worked fine with my stock spring and stock follower. http://shop.roulettetactical.com/Standard-Nordic-Caps_c3.htm

First you tighten the extension tube nut to hold the fore grip in place. Then you leave the tube about 1/2 turn loose so the tube can be pulled to the barrel when using a clamp. Since there is no tension on the barrel from the tube there should be no change in the Point Of Impact. The tube will be securely held with the clamp. If you're not using a clamp just tighten everything up..

I'm in. I heard there's some new props we get to shoot at. I like shooting at new steel.

As you know both are great product and supporters of our sport, so that's even. If you plan to use a barrel / tube clamp with the NC you can tighten the nut on the fore grip and leave the tube slightly loose allow the tube to move toward the barrel. POI should not change once sighted in. IIRC, a friend has the RCI, you can't do that with the RCI. If I'm wrong about this I'm sorry, just bringing it up for consideration. I'm sure someone will quickly jump on this message and correct me .

I cut it as installed, that way it's formed right to the receiver cut and smoothed out with same. It might no be the right way to do it but it works. Over time it has started to back out and I have to tighten it up to keep the steel lip from covering the relief cut in the receiver. Are you strong hand loading quads?

Your COL will depend on the bullet ogive and your barrel. If you seat a bullet long into an resized, un-primed and no powder case you can see how it fits in your chamber then slowly work it down until it fit flush. Maybe seat a little deeper then you'll have a COL for THAT bullet and YOUR barrel. Then start working up a load from the bottom of the chart. I load 10 rounds @ at different charge weights and label paper plates to match the loads. If you chrono as you shoot groups you'll find what meets your PF and more importantly what's the most accurate recipe with that bullet / powder combo. I've shot a lot of TG but don't like it with lead bullets. For me I like a PD 200gr FMJ and 4.5 of Universal at 1.125" but that's what works in MY gun with MY KKM barrel. YMMV. Soft, accurate at 50 yards and makes Major.

+1 Apples and oranges.

Nick, Yours looks really nice. I went ahead and cut into the steel tube, just make sure it's tight in the receiver. Try to find Mark's link for loading port mods, VERY good info from a generous man. You'll find that an undercut, taper on the inside of the receiver, will really help funnel the second shell in. I can't help with the quad and fore grip, that's my winter practice once I get a quad set-up. You might want to search you tube for the shell catch take down video. De-horning that potato peeling catch should smooth loading and keep the trigger group and catch / bolt release cleaner.

Next time you should remember that the hammer should be cocked and the bolt closed before taking it apart. That'll keep the hammer spring in place.

I'm fairly new to 3-gun so take this with that in mind. I bought a 24" JM Pro almost two years ago and it's working fine. After reading a bunch here I talked one guy out of following my path and into a VM Tactical, which he sent out to get game ready. My best friend shooting buddy was leaning towards the JM, because mine has run so well, and I steered him away as well but this time on another path. He got the 26" Sportsman for really cheap (readily available) and added all the goodies himself for less than $1200. It's soft shooting, eats everything, comes apart easily and should have no problem getting parts, if needed.

Once broken in, AND cleaned, it should run anything you feed it.

LOL Yes I am going to weld it myself but if I mess it up, or it does not work right. Now what do I do. Living in Canada is like living on the Moon. We have 1 good gun smith that I know of and its usually a 3-4 month wait to get your gun in. Getting a part from Remington could take up to 6 months. Go ahead and order a spare now. In six months you'll probably have sun light again and your shooting season should just be starting. Seriously, there's no welding shops, body shops or gunsmiths around that can be trusted?

Couldn't you just have someone local weld yours?

Rodney, The retaining lever will wiggle right out if you rotate the lever counter clockwise and shouldn't put much strain on the wire. I've had lever out many times and it's just a tight as new. My problem with the wire is that it's so small I really have to keep an eye out for it when I handle the front block.