sargenv

With a little more details, we could probably give you some info. Things like payload wt in ounces, velocity, etc. All the low recoil stuff that I know about has been velocity of 1150-1200 fps with 7/8 to 1 ounce of lead. Are we talking slugs, buck, or shot? I have recipes for most of that stuff as do probably others here on the board We need some details Vince

If it were me, I'd use Modified exclusively as I can use a speader load with fine shot (9's or 10's) for close in stuff and swap out to 4, 6, or 7.5 for longer distance stuff. Like I said above, my slugs will go through my modified without a hitch. If I were shooting buck, I'd want something tighter than IC anyway. Vince

I found that most things will drop with IC if you are used to changing up your shot sizes. I loaded up some 1 ounce #4 loads just for grins and did comparisons to 6's and 7.5's. I could reliably knock down steel out to about 35 yards with the 4's in the IC that the 6's and 7.5's wouldn't. I was impressed that an ounce would be enough. Generally though my standard competition load is 3 1/4 dram - 1 1/8 of either 7.5, 6's, or 4's. That gives a velocity of about 1250 fps and guarantees that my Gold will cycle them positively with my heavier action spring. I cut a slug from the cartridge and measured it to see if it would pass through my Modified choke tube. It's just tight in the choke and I can nudge the slug through the choke by hand with a little bit of pressure. I shoot standard loaded S&B 1 ounce slugs in my Gold. I generally carry all my chokes, but generally I'm choked IC for most things. I might slip a mod in if the targets are really far away and people are having problems with hard steel, I have not as yet had this problem, 7.5 or 6's have been sufficient. Vince

No, the original AA never seperated like this because the base and the sides were all one piece of injection molded plastic. I figure the new method is cheaper to manufacture for Olin. Reloadability is probably not on their radar since if they were manufacturing a hull specifically for reloading, I wonder if some lawyer said something like "You know, that's a liability, do things this way". For years they had the best hull to reload bar none. Federal tried for years to make a hull that handloaders liked and they changed designs multiple times over the years. Remington changed many times as well and finally have a great hull in the STS. Now Winchester makes this stupid multi-piece hull? Seems strange. Vince

When I use my single stage press, I tend to use the spacer on the priming stage since so many times I run into cases like this where it doesn't seat just so and has that little tiny lip that about drives me crazy when I try to move the cases between stages. I utilize a Sizemaster in 12 and 20 sometimes on small batches of shells. When I want to crank out a lot of rounds, like getting ready for 3-gun, I go with my grabber and then tend to utilize shells that I don't have primer issues with. I've had problems with these cases while using Winchester, Remington, Federal, and Cheddite primers. Generally when I get one of these cases on my progressive, I'll take it out of the order, seat the primer with my single stage, and then put it back into the progressive and keep going as normal. If I get lots of these hulls doing that, I change hulls to one that I have no issue with. But then, I have a fairly good selection of hulls and other people might not be as lucky (as much of a pack rat) as I am. Vince

There was also for a short time a Black AA 12 gauge hull. I saw these before I saw the Silver anniversary hulls. I wish I still had some, they were cool looking. I think those heavy ones were loaded for International Bunker, a much faster clay target game. The target leaves the house randomly from any of I think three or five traps and can throw them in any direction at 70 mph. You got 2 shots to try to neutralize the target. The one time I tried that specific game, I barely had time to get the first shot off. A second shot? uh.. ok... Vince

T&T reloading has always been great when it came to primers for me. After looking at their new page, their policy is more than $200 they pay $10 of the hazmat, more than $400 they pay all of the hazmat. I believe this applies to powder and primers. However if they have to split the order up due to the 70 pound limit, there may be 2 hazmat charges. One would be free, other would be whatever. At least that's how I see it, it might not be true. I've had nothing but good luck with these folks as far as Primers go. They even have Win and Rem Bulk packed 38 super brass. $93/k for Win, $98/k for Rem Nickle. Oddly ebough, it gave me the actual IP address for their new page. http://216.15.64.227/ The old page is: http://www.tntreloading.com/ Vince

After about 12 years, I'm still using my original Orange Midway Tumbler. It's about the same size as the small Dillon tumbler and uses about 1/3 of the media the big one does. I actually prefer the smaller one due to the location that I have for my tumbler. Vince

In my case... I place a decapper in 1, sizer on 2 (also priming), powder measure on 3, and depending on caliber, seater on 4, and crimper on 5. However with 9mm, I don't have the dillon dies and do a seat/crimp on 4 with nothing on 5. I think moving the powder measure to 3 would keep from dropping powder over your problem area. I also have the older powder measure. The first thing I removed was the "positive charge bar return" link. It was nothing but trouble for me. It kept jamming up the works. I have an extra spring on the powder return bar currently on my measure. If I can manage it, I may post a picture of my 9mm setup. I tend to use Tite Group and I'm not loading for major, so I don't get much spillage. Vince

Actually Feinswine incurred a ban on handguns but the courts threw out that law since the state pre-empted local laws. Though with the left leaning people in the legislature and the liberal court system we have now, this one may actually stick. Erik, you got out just in time. Vince

Mine used to not completely cycle back, I added a second spring wrapped around where the first one was, and that solved the problem. Haven't had an issue since and it's been over 2 years. Vince

The way around these loose primer pockets is to use the primers that are a bit oversized. The two that come to mind are Fiocchi 616's and Cheddite 209's. They are a bit larger than the Rem, Win, CCI, and Win primers being European in origin. The Fiocchi 615's may also be oversized but are meant for target loads (616's are for field and heavy field loads). I use the Cheddite primers when I need a slightly larger primer or if I am loading Fiocchi hulls (or other european hulls that needs one). They are a few bucks per 1000 cheaper locally. Vince

What do the Universals look like? Are these the ones with the plastic basewad that is rather straight walled? If I had a clue as to what the inside basewad looks like, I might have some data for them. Like Graywolf says though, they may be the ones that they intended people to throw away. I sometimes will load these shells with the intention of going to lost brass matches. Why give them my good AA's? Vince

I used to do this kind of thing back when I was a starting reloader. While my results were ok, I probably wouldn't do this kind of thing unless I had little choice in the matter since I have better powders suited to it. If I had a case of TW and not much else, then I'd probably use it. As it is, TG works great for everything I shoot (9mm, 40, 38 spl) so I don't feel a need to experiment. That and just not having the time to goof with loads, etc. I agree though, it is similar to Trap 100 or even Win AA 452 which was discontinued around the time H pulled Trap 100. All in all, I like TW for light target loads, but it has fallen out of use for me recently as I aquired about 20 # of Red dot in an estate sale. When that runs out, I'll probably start using TW again due to cost savings over other powders. One things I noticed about TW though, one 4# keg of it tended to flash unburned powder out the ejection port of my Gold as the shell exited. I asked H about this at the NRA show in 2002 in Reno and they said that was the first they had heard of it. *shrug* weird. Vince

60 points, 15.57 secs (1 bobbled reload), 3.8536 HF If I hadn't had a misfed mag, I might have picked up a second or two. With classifiers like this, I'll be comfortably into C class. Para 18.9 LDA Vince

Hodgdon site lists 147 gr Hornady JHP as a max of 3.6 gr of Titegroup for a velocity of 929 fps from a 4" barrel. This is with an overall length of 1.100". I don't have any experience with this load, so I'd start out at like 3.2 or 3.3 and work my way up if necc. I currently burn 4.7 of TG with a 124 gr plated west coast round nose. It makes about a 135 PF in my LDA with a 5" tube, for a velocity just under 1100 fps. I seat mine to 1.165" since my Para tubes allow me to. Longer than that and well, I can chamber the rounds, but sometimes when I rack the slide, the bullet stays in the rifling and I dump powder all inside the gun. Fairly entertaining. Vince

I wanted to wait to see some consensus about this since I actually use TW for shotshells. For what they designed it for, it's a great powder, light charges of powder and light loads of shot. I was leary of making any reccomendations based on theory and I'm actually happy to have seen the "that's not a good idea" come from Hodgdon. I've experienced things like this in the past utilizing power that wasn't designed for a specific purpose trying to be cheap or experimental. Generally my results were not what I expected and I fell back on convention. I am happy to see people asking these questions though, it's good to be curious. Vince

A man in Phoenix calls his son in New York the day before Christmas and says, "I hate to ruin your day, but I have to tell you that your mother and I are divorcing; forty-five years of misery is enough." "Pop, what are you talking about?" the son screams. "We can't stand the sight of each other any longer," the father says. "We're sick of each other, and I'm sick of talking about this, so you call your sister in Chicago and tell her." Frantic, the son calls his sister, who explodes on the phone. "Like heck they're getting divorced," she shouts, "I'll take care of this!" She calls Phoenix immediately, and screams at her father, "You are NOT getting divorced. Don't do a single thing until I get there. I'm calling my brother back, and we'll both be there tomorrow. Until then, don't do a thing, DO YOU HEAR ME?" and hangs up. The old man hangs up his phone and turns to his wife. "Okay," he says, "they're coming for Christmas AND paying their own way."

This is kind of old news. I've known about Levi's dislike of firearms for a long time. No real surprise since their headquarters is in SF. It's easy, I just don't buy Levi's, haven't for many years. Vince

As for Green primers, at one time I bought some Fiocchi leadless primers. They were a pretty good deal as I remember and they worked just fine. This was just before the whole "green" issue came up. That had to be about 5 or 6 years ago though. I bought them locally at a place called "Traders". I don't know if they still carry them. Vince

I find that 7/8 ounce loads in my 12 are softer than 7/8 ounce loads in my 20. The only issue you might have in shooting such a light load, is that it may be unreliable in a semi-auto. I know that the 7/8 ounce load will work in the Browning Gold and Beretta Semi's. It might work in an 11-87, but it may not function in a Benelli, Rem 1100, or other popular gun. Of course everything will generally feed in a pump. The problem with using a 20 gauge gun in something like open, is that you have to adapt the speed sticks to a smaller gauge. In limited it isn't as much of an issue. Vince

I think I saw something like that on one of the outdoor channels, I thought they were insane lol.. That's a tad too extreme for me, I'll stick to some of the less extreme trails Vince

Hmmm... I have the perfect vehicle for it.. A lifted 98 Wrangler Sahara.. Might be time for a road trip soon Vince

Oddly enough, my first real Handgun was a T/C Contender .30-30 wearing a 14" tube and 1.5-4x Burris. Soon after that it was a Ruger GP100 6". I shot both of those for a very long time. My friend told me "It will take you at least 7 years before you can fire that T/C proficiently". Well, he was right, it did take about that long. When I had it dialed in and I was doing everything I could, it was hard to miss with that thing even out to 200 yards. I didn't start doing IPSC stuff until fairly recently (last 5 years or so, and the last 3 seriously). I realize now that it wasn't the right direction for me and any new shooter I bring to the range gets to shoot my model 41 S&W. Build confidence, teach good gun handling, marksmanship, etc. I tell most of the people that want to try shooting that I can generally have them shooting better than at least 50% of the people at the slow fire range on any given day. I haven't been wrong yet lol The first real gun (not air rifle) I ever fired was a Browning Auto 5 in 12 gauge. The first gun that was bought new for me was a Model 870 Wingmaster in 20 gauge, I was 13. I still have that one. Vince

I once sold some Federal Once fired 45 acp brass for like $70/k. Back when 40 brass was not as plentiful, I could easily get 2 to 3 cents each for nickel plated Winchesters. E-bay made me a pretty good chunk of change in brass sales alone. I think I sold 5 or 6 - 5 gallon buckets worth. Sometimes it sold for a lot, other times not so much, but they were always ok to pay for shipping. I certainly didn't mind selling it to them. Vince