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Run n Gun

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Everything posted by Run n Gun

  1. The RO in me keeps watching the gun; her strong hand appears to be doing something… trying to de-cock? I’m quite sure there was bullet/asphalt fragments blown everywhere. The officer that was doing the cuffing looks down at his right leg. Ed
  2. BigDave, When you only have one bay it means you only have one shooter at a time, it’s fairly easy to keep a running total especially with a laptop. We’re doing that now at our small club. But when you have 4 bays (which we hope to have soon) and 4 shooters going at once, “up to the moment” isn’t practical. A bit of thread drift… sorry. A week, accurately reported, should be plenty. USPSA doesn’t REQUIRE clubs to report a month’s activity until the 10th (IIRC) of the following month. Ed
  3. Adrenaline; you can’t live without it and sometimes you (or others) can’t live WITH it! Man, how would you like to have to write THAT report! Ed
  4. RLSMITH, Since you’re obviously well funded I would recommend that you buy the PACT Championship MK IV Timer from Brian. Others here might disagree but I’ve found it invaluable, if for no other reason than to give me a benchmark for practicing my draw and reloads. The fact that it also comes with a chrono is just a very nice bonus! Ed
  5. Steve, That’s REALLY good news! I just bought a new (okay, new to ME) car and my wife and I spent the day driving down the coast. A beautiful day, and for Oregon, that so rare perfect weather, but still, your devotion to your dog kept surfacing in my thoughts. I’m tired and off to bed but I’m glad that I checked the forum first and I’m glad your story has a happy ending. Ed
  6. SiG Lady, WTG! I think you’ll like your SDB I know I like mine. Now all you need is a scale, bullets, powder and primers and away you go! Twix is right, it’ll add a whole new dimension to the sport and like the sport those dimensions can be both joyous and frustrating. From reading your posts I think you have a bunch of capable people to advise you locally and, of course, you have us. Some people REALLY get into it, one guy at the club told me “most people reload so they can shoot more, I shoot so I can reload”. I even find myself futzing with different powders, bullets, OAL… Hell it’s part of the fun! Ed
  7. Pete, In case you overlooked this in the other thread I'm posting it again... If you’re really serious about doing this kind of thing then go to http://www.gunbooks.com/catalog.html and buy Kuhnhausen Gunsmithing & Gun Repair Books Volumes 1&2. They’ll answer ALL of your questions. I just ordered both of those AND the video. Good luck, Ed
  8. Yup, If my basic math skills are intact (a lot to ask after a long weekend) it works out to: 293.3333 FPS and 2625 grains so you’d have a 770 power factor… I think. And yes, you have too much time on your hands. Ed
  9. Honest praise from someone I respect is always nice. However, I monitor my performance closer than anyone and can pat my own back (or kick my own butt) if necessary. A bonus, especially an unexpected bonus, is real and tangible it COSTS more than words… it’s a reward, recognition for a job well done, a trophy if you will. Ed
  10. bird, I bought an EGW and it came with both red and green. I spent a couple of days using each in a variety of lighting situations from almost dark to bright full sun and settled on green. All I want is to be able to “see” the front sight better and the green allows me to do that. The red was TOO visible, in full sun it glowed VERY bright, all I could see was the dot, and the rest of the sight seemed to disappear! Sort of like looking into a red 100-watt light bulb. Like so much of what we do, there’s no right or wrong, it’s an individual choice. Ed
  11. Yeah Benny they do look great… but… my God are they expensive!! I can buy 3 CMC’s, tinker with them for 10 minutes so they’ll run 100 percent, and STILL be money ahead of just ONE of Virgil’s. I don’t see how Tripp’s can be anything but good but the price has GOT TO be more competitive! Ed
  12. Run n Gun

    Titegroup

    Eric, I’ve had a 4” and a 8 3/8” Model 29’s and a 7 ½” Super Blackhawk and between them I know I’ve sent in excess of 15k full house H110 loads down range. I got rid of my Big Blasters a few years ago and bought a 4 ¾” SAA and 5 ½” Schofield (my Cowboy gun period). I don’t shoot these very often and I didn’t want to buy a separate powder but after some strange results using clays I decided to look for a powder I could use in both, or more correctly, all three .45’s. I’m getting the itch again for a long range hand cannon and have been looking hard at the Ruger Super Redhawk in 454 Casull. At our club they have a shoot that’s at a running buck at 100yds, looks like fun and with the Redhawk I could load some hot 45 Colts and have a blast (every pun intended)! Ed
  13. “Splits” is the time between shots, “transitions” is the time between the last shot at one target and the first shot at the next target. Shooting an El Presidente your timer might read (in seconds): 1.01 Time from buzzer to first shot (your draw) .18 Time between 1st and 2nd shot (split) .32 Time from last on t1 to 1st on t2 (transition) .16 split .35 t2 to t3 (transition) .17 Split 1.24 Time from last shot on t3 to first on t1 (reload, mandatory) .19 split .38 transition .18 split .35 transition .18split The El Prez is three targets, draw and shoot 2 shots each reload and repeat. I know “clear as mud”. Ed
  14. OOOPS! MY bad. I just saw your post in Load Data/Reloading answering that very question. We will now return this thread to its regularly scheduled posts. Ed
  15. DT (warning! thread drift!) I too shoot Laser-Cast 200 LSWC’s and 1.250 COL, does 4.7grs Titegroup make major in your 5” Wilson? I use clays and like it but I was looking for something that I could use in both .45 Colt and .45 ACP and Titegroup seems like it would fill the bill. Thanks, Ed
  16. bird, You know this debate never seems to die. IMHO I think one should “try before you buy”, running each brand in YOUR gun if at all possible. Both Wilson and McCormick make fine products but they may or may not “run” in your individual gun. I shoot L-10 with a Kimber Gold Match and when I bought the gun I also bought a bunch of McCormick 10 rounders and had a LOT of problems making them run and through that process wished that I’d have bought Wilson’s. After quite a bit of tinkering all of my McCormick’s now run 100 percent and I’m a happy camper. Conversely, a shooting buddy bought a Springfield Trophy Match and a bunch of Wilson’s and his experience exactly mirrored mine including wishing he’d bought CMC’s! Now we both have absolutely reliable guns/mags but only after a lot of work tuning. I think with enough work, any QUALITY mag can be MADE to work. Good Luck, Ed
  17. BDH, I'm just guessing here; but anything involving a lethal gas, 25 bazillion volts or pig blood might be a little over the top. Ed
  18. Run n Gun

    Titegroup

    Really?! Cool... I can't count how many pounds of H110 that I've burned in 44 Mag. Great powder but dangerous to load-down. I wonder how well it would work in 45 Colt? Hmmm... off to Hodgdon I go! Thanks for the tip, Ed
  19. Pete, If you’re really serious about doing this kind of thing then go to http://www.gunbooks.com/catalog.html and buy Kuhnhausen Gunsmithing & Gun Repair Books Volumes 1&2. They’ll answer ALL of your questions. I just ordered both of those AND the video. Good luck, Ed
  20. http://www.schuemann.com/ and then (on the left, under "information") go to "Timing Test Kit". Ed
  21. Rhino, Go to http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html and learn more about it. Ed
  22. Big Dave, When I first got the Slideglide I only used it on the, well… slide and I used FP-10 on everything else. Since the warm weather has FINALLY come I now use it on EVERYTHING in the gun, try it, it works great! L2S, Talk to me about “Trigger Slick”. Ed
  23. Pete, I use Slideglide on my Kimber Gold Match Stainless Steel and it’s wonderful! Try it and I guarantee you won’t use anything else. Ed
  24. Pete, I got this off of the m1911.org site: "Several people have written and asked me if I know where they can find blueprints of the old bigmouth. Well, the closest thing I've found is located at http://www.model1911a1.com/. From the drop-down menu on the top of that site, select the drawing you want to see. Javascript should be enabled for this feature to work. Some more blueprints can be found at http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/. Scroll towards the bottom, after the "Manuals" section." I hope it helps, Ed
  25. Virtually all you guys are thinkers (EN”T”J), I’m not sure how I feel (EN”F”J) about that. Ed
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