Paul B

This is a rather common problem with Para's and heavy one sided scope mounts. The dust cover was never meant to hold that much weight - it's a dust cover. All 3 of my Para open guns had this problem. Did not bother to try to reweld them, just put an extra steel pad on each side of the gun. My gunsmith brazed a pad of steel approx 1/16" thick to either side of the gun and re-cut the scope holes. This bridged the cracks and has been a permanent repair. You will have to modify your scope mount base (needs to be thinner) or the parallax will be way off. For me it was just a matter of buying a scope mount for an SVI/STI gun. As a side benefit the screws no longer strip out easy. If you would like a picture of what I mean, e-mail me with your personal e-mail address and I will send - still don't understand how to post on this forum.

In the real world most competitors will have their hand on their gun as they begin to turn around on an EL PREZ for example. The more experienced competitors will actually already be raising the gun out of the holster as they turn (muzzle still pointed down to the same point as if it were in the holster). Interpreting the above quote literally and we should have a lot of DQ's at any major match with a turn around stage. For example, if all the CRO's do start calling this, it will thin the ranks of the best shooters and allow more opportunity for those of us less gifted shooters. Seriously, it boils down to two things: 1. The draw is not when the gun moves 1/2 inch out of the holster. That is just the start of the process that proceeds through rotation and ends up with target engagement. 2. The rule has to be interpreted as one applying to muzzle control not whether there is a hand on the gun. Maybe the "bubble" approach is not the right term, but the concept of a one meter radius on the ground is a good one. The other alternative may be to eliminate these kinds of starts, which is unacceptable to me.

I wonder who makes Para slides - Para? I've had a lot of cracks in other slides specially Caspian (with 115's in .38 super) but have rarely seen this kind of failure. Would love to know the rest of the set up in the gun like recoil spring, shock buffs etc. Any work done on the slide like reverse plug, etc.

Anyone ever put windshield de-icer fluid in the radiator by mistake. It was very embarassing!

+1 on Flex also as this "bubble" is how I have always interpreted the rule. One thought in addition to the others is when does a "draw" actually occur? If its when the gun is first released from the holster then there would be a lot of procedurals being given for El Presedente's because just about every really fast shooter I've seen has their hand on the gun and some slight rise from the holster as they are turning (no real tilt to the target till they get further around). If the draw lasts till the gun is up on target then there would not be a procedural. I have a lot less problem with this type of "start of a draw" in an El Prez than I do with the more tactical types using inside the belt holsters on their hips and drawing from almost around their back when I'm behind them ROing. This is what widens my eyes.

As far as I know there is no general rule about propping and none about setting the gun up if it is stable that way. If you don't want proping or standing up of the gun just say so in the "starting position." Adding "gun flat on table and No propping" is pretty easy. For those who say this is a gamers approach, take a look at the guns with the slide rackers in open and the LTD guns with big paddle safeties and big magwells. These things prevent the mag release/mag drop some love to see from these starts just as much as propping. It's interesting to watch the different levels of structure practiced by different RO's. I designed a stage with a table start and was silent about propping on purpose, but about half the RO's would not allow it (RO's travelled with the squad) and half didn't care. When the ones that wouldn't allow it found out that others were doing it they were very, very unhappy and we made a ruling that no one could prop before it got out of hand. Next month I designed a similar stage and specifically stated that propping was allowed. No problems ensued and the same people were at the top of the stage results. From my standpoint, let the competitor do what they are comfortable with at this kind of start. It is a game.

I hate to be a naysayer here because I'm a big fan of both ISMI springs and Grams parts. I have for the last 3 years committed sacrilege and I will not change. My formula for a totally reliable 23 rounds of .40 ammo in my Para (22 in the mag and 1 up the pipe) is a Dawson base pad, a factory Para spring and a Grams follower. All a mm under 140. I wish I could figure out how to get in one more for some of those 24 round stages.

Over the years I've heard a lot of reasons for flash in a hot comp gun. The main ones were: 1. Barrel is starting to get worn so there is some blowby. I don't know about this for sure, but I did have more flash in the older more shot out barrels that I've used. By older I mean 50K rounds +. YMMV 2. The most prevalant one is that most VV powders like 350 and 3N37 will flash more at lower temps. It's true in my experience that under 50 degrees there is more flash with these powders. YMMV. 3. There is also the incomplete ignition thing. I've seen a lot of shooters use small pistol magnum primers for the higher volume loads and it does seem to help - even more than the small rifle primers. I use the SP Mag primers over a lot of N105 with 115's and have never had a flash even though this is one of the slower powders. YMMV 4. The gods are just not smiling on you and are waiting for an indoor match to blind you with the first flash. Right - this is probably the real reason.

Rob, are you sure it isn't 10 rounds for handguns? I remember talking to Canadian shooters who were griping about the 10 round limitation? Maybe it has changed.

Thanks for the offer, but the ones that won't go through the first time, will just get a slight chamfer to break the entry edge. This seems to clear up once they have been fired once and I, unlike some others, have had pretty good longevity with the brass even though it's a very healthy load and 115's.

Thanks for the advice. Am currently using the .223 shell plate which is what Dillon advised. Maybe the the 9mm would hold them a little tighter.

Don't know why, but when I load Armscor supercomp new brass on my 650 about 1 in every 15 cases won't accept the primer. They seem to get caught on the sides like the primer hole is slightly off center or the edges of the primer pocket are too sharp. Has anyone else had this problem? Not as bad with used brass. Load is <11 gr of N105 with a Federal small pistol magnum primer. Usually the primer just mangles itself but also had 1 boom out of 600 cases loaded.

Know how you feel. Been there with my constant sinus problems (why do we need sinuses anyway???). Have also found that the amplified ear muffs have caused me numerous problems. Since you can hear just fine the tendency is to just leave them on all during the match and day. I have constant fugal infections becuse of this. I tried the plugs but they just hurt my ears. I guess the moral is take the muffs off when they are not needed-at least for me.

There is actually a company that makes vandal "proof" mail boxes. they are made of thick stainless steel (it's at least 1/4 inch thick). My brother was constantly having his mailbox vandalized and finally got one and mounted it on a 3" heavy stainless pipe in concrete. Now been 10 years without a scratch. This mailbox is immune to baseball bats, 2 by 4's and M-80's set off inside it. If you drove into it there would be much more damage to the car than the box. I used to live on a curve at just the right point to have the traffic hit my mailbox if they overshot the curve. I tried moving it, but they still hit it. I was afraid to put in something really heavy as I didn't want someone to really hurt themselves when they hit it so I just replaced it when it got knocked down - about once every 2 years.

Just a word of caution for what it is worth. I started using aluminum buffs and really liked the feel that they gave the gun. Also seemed like faster recovery. They did have a sharper but straight back recoil inpulse. Then my gun started doubling and after a lot of work it turned out to be worn trigger sear engagement. A new trigger and sear cured the problem, but I have a strong suspicion that the bounce had something to do with it. the hammer and sear wore out less than 2000 rounds after the aluminum buffs went in. I have went back to the softer ones. YMMV

I love inventive stages with all kinds of fun props. I want to shoot the stars and the windmills, but they often present a different challenge for different competitors and they sometimes test skills at the match level that cannot be practiced in any realistic way by most people: 1. Having shot a lot of stars and windmills (never great but not too bad either) and having reset them many many times, they always behave differently even if shot the same. It takes excruciating care to be sure they are set the same for everyone. I'm not talking about the minor type of differences that occur because of wind to other targets like drop turners, but major differences in RPM just by setting a different plate at the top, or by winding the rope a little differently. 2. The main thing that bothers me is that most shooters do not have access to these props to practice. I think it was mentioned above that some clubs have bought them and some of their members get to play with them while others never see them except at a major. Most other types of targets can be simulated relatively easily by common substitutes (pie plate for popper), but there is nothing like a windmill or a star unless you have one. All that said, I would still vote to use them, but I would be dead sure they were set the same every time and I'd even set them up on a practice range to let everyone get the feel of them.

As everyone knows the mactch ammo rule was put into effect due to travel with ammo probelms which are even more onerous on those with heavy bullets. A noble effort, but just a few points. 1. I don't think this is going to be anyones preferred ammo based on some of the comments on this board. First there is the dirty issue which may lead in some guns to jams etc. Also, though, did anyone notice that they are using 7 grains of "some" powder. This indicates to me they are using a slower powder - probably for liability reasons. Most real competition loads with a 180 gr .40 are =-5 gr or less. I personally do not like the feel of slower powders as the recoil impulse is all wrong. I suspect most others with a lot of experience will also find it "different." 2. There is probably no way to get the exact right load on PD's part so they have done the best they can this year. I say let the free ride last this year only. During 2006 every competitor who wants to shoot them should be able to get the sample packs and try them out in their gun. For 2007, everybody chrono's according to the rules.

I've heard this is a "discussion only" topic on the agenda,but we really should nip it in the bud. It will not be good for new members and will cause more that a few clubs to just go "off the books" rather than submit to more administrative activities and or turn away paying customers. I know a few clubs personally that would simply go their own way. I've served on the board of a club in the past for over 8 years and we had a few situations in which we had to ban a person from the range. It can be done if need be - not always easily but it luckily does not come up often. Totally agree that the advantages of membership have to be sold more. What we should do is sell subscriptions to the magazine and include a membership with the subscription. If you want to increase membership, make the magazine even better than it is already. There was another thread on these forums mourning the loss of GunGames and Front Sight could fill that void with a little work. If anyone thinks shooting at the nationals will be an incentive of membership, think again. It's a very small percentage of shooters that would consider that a major advantage of membership. Even if 1000 different shooters go to the nationals (which they don't) that's way less than 5% of persons that will shoot at least one club match during a year. Most shooters just don't want to do it or can't do it till they get the religious zeal of practical shooting in their blood.

The best answer I can give is I don't know. I've practiced drawing and firing enough that the safety becomes automatic. When the gun is on the target it is ready to fire. It's only when I do something wrong that I'm aware of taking the safety off.

I'm normally a pretty good computer geek, but there must be something wrong with my body chemistry or something because every computer I've had McAfee on has been crashed by the McAfee software. The most recent was a new Dell laptop which came with McAfee and it makes it 4 bad experiences for me. I know there are others who have absolutely no problem so it must be me. One suggestion, if you run into problems remove all the Norton and McAfee and download the free versions of Zonelab and Grisoft AVG. They are sooooo friendly even I like them.

I remember during some of the early USPSA days (80's) a friend was shooting a single stack .45 Gold Cup. The barrel had been replaced with an ill fated experiment that was 2 pieces. The rear part where the lugs and chamber are had been milled out and a barrel with "special" reverse spin rifling was sleeved and brazed into the rear part. This was supposed to give exceptional accuracy and it really did with one hole groups at 25 yards. Unfortunately it was made for bullseye loads. One day at match the whole barrel went down range when the friend shot the gun. The rear part of the barrel stayed in the gun. After we realized what happened and no one was hurt there were a lot of laughs (the bullet actually left the barrel and hit the target - the barrel itself went about 100 feet). Don't think I've ever seen a barrel like this since - probably for good reason. By the way the gun was fine and with a new barrel it still is working just fine.

The best way to, IMO, to voice your disagreement with the two-day format is to simply don't shoot the match if the the number of stages don't justify a hotel expense and a couple of meals. Save your $$$ and shoot a bigger/better match if it is such a hassel to involve an overnight.

Big question - where to start - built one of these myself and used it through B class till I finally bought a .40. Here's what I did: 1. Scrap all the small parts from Para they are just crap. Get a good hammer, sear, and extractor from EGW or some other source. If you can get a matched set of hammer and sear get it. The stock para trigger will work fine with some polishing on the side rails. This should give you about a 3-5lb trigger. You can take one or two coils off the hammer spring (if its full power) and it will lower that to about the 3 lb area. You can go lower but I wouldn't till you are comfortable with the gun. You should go with a 15 lb recoil spring and see what it does with the empties and functioning and go up or down to taste. 2. Get the heaviest guide rod you can get - tungsten if possible and install it. 3. Polish the feed ramp so it looks like a mirror with a dremel and polishing compound 4. Get a good fiber optic front sight from brazos or EGW. With the para cut it is just a drive out the old and drive in the new. 5. Don't get overly concerned about the slide to frame fit. Be concerned about the barrel to slide fit. With the gun in battery push down on the barrel hood and if it's pretty solid you should have plenty of IPSC accuracy. If it's sloppy, try a full size slide stop (.200) if it's still sloppy you might want to see a smith for some work. Caution, sometimes if you put in the full diameter slide stop the gun will jam - if so go back to a looser one. 6. I went with stock para springs, Grams followers and Dawson base pads (or Grams) for the mags and you can get 18 in the mag and one in the gun. So you could start a stage with 19 in the gun which will even the playing ground a lot. 7. I experimented with a lot of bullet weights, but settled on the 230 loaded just above major for the best feel. You may find you like the feel of a different bullet weight. 8. I almost forgot, I installed a Kings ambi safety as it locks in on both sides so you don't need the para grips at all. If you like a narrow grip you can take off the stocks and put grip tape right on the frame. Depends on what feels better in your hand. This configuration, though, is narrower that a 1911 with the stocks on and any of the S_I 's. That should keep you busy for the rest of the winter and I'm sure there will be others with other ideas. Good luck.

Fiberoptics work very well indoors, specially under flourescent lights. If you can plan your firing points somewhat to get directly under a light the sight will light up like a flashlight. When it's dark though not much help. For me though even in some light they are better than black on black which my eyes see as just black. +1 on the longest fibre - EGW or Brazos.

Good advice from Crusher if your gun is not prone to launching fibers. I have a .45 para that does not require anything but mushrooming the ends and lasts a long time. My .40, though, with it's spring setup seems to eat the fibres - usually in the middle of a long accuracy stage. I sometimes replaced the fibers at matches for this gun without glue, but they only lasted me about 100-200 rounds. If your gun is prone to losing the fiber - and I don't know what the cosmic factors are that determine this, you will want to use the glue. Usually you will know pretty soon if your gun is a "fiber chucker" and will know what has to be done.