ORCA

Let me start by recommending the book "The Precision Shooting Reloading Guide". It is the best book I've seen on loading for precision shooting. It will tell you the best procedures for different types of precision shooting. The first chapter is worth the price of the book. Neck sizing is done with a neck sizing die, usually a bushing die. You select the bushing to give you the amount of neck tension you want. This will determine how tightly the bullet is held. With bolt guns you usually don't crimp the round. With tactical bolt guns you usually full length resize because its more important the the gun function than you squeeze a few thousands more accuracy. With neck sized brass the fit is so tight any crud in the chamber can make it so the bolt won't close. You do set your dies up to work with your chamber so you bump the shoulder back only as far as you need to. You also trim your brass according to the length of your chamber. You might want to checkout the reloading section of the Sniper Hide forum. It’s more strait forward than 6mmbr. http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

The Forster is an great press, I love mine. I also have a Harrell 4 position turret press that Harrell sold me for a hundred bucks because it had a scatch on it when I was picking up a powder measure. Anything Harrell makes rocks and he is a great guy who stands behind anything he makes 100%. I use the Forster most of the time, but I use the Harrell's at the range for load development. The best book I have ever seen for precision reloading is the Precision Shooting Reloading Guide. It covers different shooting disciplines, as what works for bench rest doesn't work for tactical rifle. Snipers hide is a good web site for tactical rifle, but thier empasis is on reliable ammo with acceptable long range accuracy, not groups. 6mmbr has the a lot of good information for extreme precision. Brass prep? What brass prep with Lapua brass? Thats why you buy Lapua (and its tough as hell).

I had 16lb of Varget on order as of 3/2. It was suppose to ship 2 weeks from the time og the order. Midway cancelled the order. "In regards to your powder order ####### we are out of the Varget powder and had to cancel the entire powder order. We have issued a credit to the credit card that the original order was placed on. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused."

I got the instrutions for the trigger job from the M&P forum. I believe they have been removed.

I had the same problem with failure to extract from my M&P Pro, as well as light primer strikes. I sent the gun back to S&W and they turned it around in a week and a half. The work they performed was: 1) Replaced the extractor. 2) Replaced the striker assembly. 3) Modified the barrel (I don't know what they modified). 4) Replaced the sear (I wish they had not done this as I had done a trigger job on it and had the pull down to 3lb). I put a couple hundred rounds of Winchester white box on it today with no problems.

You know you are a shooter when: You buy a house two miles from the range. You use your USPSA membership number as your pin number. When you use morning meeting at work to design stages. You have to tell yourself that your not double tapping the mouse, you're doing controlled pairs.

Try http://www.mcmaster.com/ Look up hairpin cotter pins. Mcmaster-Carr has everthing and it's always in stock.

Great Post! I feel the only person I'm in competition with is myself. EricW, I'll give you in the academic world honesty isn't rewarded and is frequently penalized (bell curves, I won't touch graduate programs). When employeed by a large company it definenly isn't rewarded, but in small business it is rewarded. An example: My father is a hardwood lumber broker and one of the sawmills he buys from sent a load of wood to furniture company. When the wood was graded it turned out to be worth more than the sawmill had estimated it at, and my father was paid for what was shipped. Dad could have kept the money, he had purchased the wood - it was his, but he took his normal comission and sent the difference to the sawmill. The owner of the sawmill was impressed by his honesty and now my father is the only wood broker he will deal with because he doesn't have to be concerned about his honesty.

It is the same barrel, you have it finished reamed to the caliber of your choice ( the AET barrels are a little different). The ramp style matters, the cuts are specific for each type. The part of the barrel that contacts the frame when the gun unlocks is flat on a Wilson/Nowlin, it is a radius on the Clark/Para. I like the Clark/Para ramp personally, the guns seem to lock and unlock easier, the Wilson/Nowlin feel kind of clunkie to me. Scheumann and Barsto barrells are both excellent. For bang for your buck I like Kart barrels.

I can't speak to the Brownell's Gun Kote, but the KG Gun-Kote is excellent. If you contact KG they will send you a couple of pages of information on surface prep and how to apply it. You really need an airbrush though. The coating looks the same going into the oven as it does when it comes out (with flat black, other colors?). If you screw up when applying it, which is hard to do with an air brush, it wipes off with a little paint thinner. Surface prep is the key, it needs to be sand blasted and wiped down with a solvent, MEK, acetone, brake cleaner, ect. One bottle goes a long way, I've coated three guns and still have over half a bottle left. The guns in the photos were both done with KG Gun-Kote flat black. The limited gun is going on a year, and I've whacked it on stuff a few times and the finish hasn't shown any marks from the abuse. I'm not sure why the open gun's finish looks like the black is different shades, I guess it's the flash, the angle, or something, looking at it in my hands it all looks the same. The finish on the guns also looks identicle when the are side by side. Two home made guns You will definetly want thier Phos-S too, its a rust proofing treatment that is suppose to give 2000 hours of immertion resistance. It goes sprays on with an air brush and is dry in 20 min. It helps the coating adhere to the parts. I use the Phos-S on all kinds of tools. The coating doesn't smell very strong when being applied or baked, the solvents used to wipe it down..... The best rack I've found for suspending the parts in the oven is a wire suspention file rack the the office supply stores sell for five or six bucks in two packs, and you'll want two.

I would be interested to hear what kind of barrel life people are getting with coated bullets. I've have two friends who tried some moly coated bullets, I believe they were Rangers, and both barrels were ruined by them. One person with a Scheumann barrel shot 5k rounds threw his gun and the barrel looked like a shot gun, no chamber and no rifling. The second guy shoots a Para-Ordinance and its chamber and about an inch of rifling was gone. Seeing these two guns first hand has scared me away from trying any coated bullet.

Oh yeah, that's gold!!!

Going with a long heavy dust cover for now and having cosmetic lightening cuts put in later is also an option. I shoot 155gr bullets, 180s seem like the gun cycles slowly and flips more.

I've got three limited guns, a light SVI, a wide body STI, and a wide body STI with a lightened slide. I've had heavy components in the SVI and it doesn't make a lot of difference. I've also tried firing pin stops with various radiuses and not noticed much difference. The heavy guns have less percieved recoil, and I can't tell much difference between them. The one with the lightened slide sights might not lift quite as much as the completely heavy but the difference is minimal. All of the combinations are good, the differences just aren't that dramatic between any of them, unless you are really recoil sensitive. As is the conventional wisdom pick one and shoot. Really, it is the singer not the song.

I'm not a machininst, I'm a control systems engineer that specializes in precision motion control and micro machining. I did own part of a machine shop for a couple of years, so I might be guilty by association. They both shoot excellently. Very smooth locking and unlocking. The barrells are fit into the frames and slides with a .001 slip fit and lapped in. The limited gun has never had a problem from day one, it has around 10k on it now, and it has shot 1" groups from a ransom rest at 50 yards. I just finished the shorty open gun it seems to be doing fine, but it only has a couple of hundred round on it. Oh yeah, the open gun is the shorty I had mentioned in other threads built on a long/wide frame and cut down.

The pictures are of two guns that I built for myself. Some of the goodies on them are tri-glide triggers, AET barrels, stainless steel accents, Aftec extractors and Koenig hammers. I've got one more limited gun I'm getting ready to send out to be hard chromed that I put gill cuts and panel cuts in the slide that I'll post pictures of when I get it back.

I've only been to a couple of big matches, but I'm for the creature comforts. If you want to get a product into the shooters hands the shooters pack appears the way to go. get your logo on some bottles of water or have it on a shade tent ( Orca like shade). I'll remember the thoughtful vendor who put some time and thought into giving me something that made the match more enjoyable.

I have a couple of thoughts on this subject. One is that the shooter has not settled completely into their shooting stance after the draw and a little extra time is needed to stabilize their stance, which is done during the second shot. My second thought is I've noticed that I frequently slap the trigger on the draw stroke and then settle down into a light squeeze afterwards with decreasing split times as trigger control increases. Recently I've started paying a lot of attention to my trigger control on the draw stroke just touching the trigger on the draw and gently pressing it at the end. The speed is the same, but the accuracy is improved and I'm not spending time refining my trigger control as I go. As an example I was doing Bill drills, and with my normal trigger slap draw and most were in the 1.6 range with an occasional one in the high 1.5s, but I would frequently have a C hit on the draw and the first split would be around .18 and get a little better as the run continued. When I switched to a more refined trigger control most draws were center A hits and the first split was a .16 every time and the times were in the 1.5s every time. It just felt more relaxed and the front sight was more stable.

1. Todd Jarrett 2. Phil Strader (got to support the locals) 3. Rob Leatham 4. Brian Enos 5. Jerry Barnhart 1) Prioritize shooting skills From most important to least important. 2) When you encounter a problem with your performance on a skill how do you analize and correct the problem? 3) How do you analize a stage? Walk us through your process. 4) What was the biggest obsticle you had to overcome on your way to becoming a champion. 5) How do you get the most out of your practice sessions.

I've observed that many people who slow thier draw down for a match slow down every part of the draw. I think the draw should be done at full speed and more time spent at the end of the draw on the sights. Matt B. pointed this out in his DVD. I've always had good draw speed and I've been able to improve it, but I struggled with accuracy. For me the key to accuracy was getting the gun into the sight plane early, it made a huge difference.

If it works for you use it. I analize everything I do and try to figure out how to improve it. I think a lot of techniques come down to your personal comfort level with them. Keep on examining everything!!! Everytime I have a major breakthrough it comes from examination, not mindless repetition. I'm a symetrical guy myself. I've watched a lot of videos and observed a lot of people and my draw isn't identical to any one persons. On the buzzer I jerk like someone who just got scared and I pull through the gun with no pause. I bring the gun up high and into the sight plain ASAP so I have more time to aquire the sights as I'm extending the gun. I pinch the gun between my fingers and palm as soon as I touch the gun and roll my palm around it on the way to the high position. I'm in the low .7's to high .6's on the draw at ten yards. I think my initial jump is the key to my speed, the gun into the sight plain early helps accuracy.

"Snatch the pebble from my hand grasshopper."

"I am humbled before your minority status" "This is the proper stance to assume when confronted by the LAPD oppressors" "The tax payers will pick up the tab for flying you and your monks from China twice per week under our new health plan to realign my shocras." "Assembly man trains to take on the govenator." "The govenor put me in a full nelson until I agreed to do my duty as the Attorney General of California and challenge gay marrage in the courts and I haven't been able to straiten up since"

Great looking chest! I love wood working, its very relaxing. I'm more of a Roy Underhill man myself, I think I'm rebelling against my control system engineering day job.

I'm telling my age I guess by the price of the books. I'm thinking of going back to school though... I'm a engineer too.