Casman

DyNo! is right. If you are using a 200 yard zero, the 6 o-clock position on the inner circle would be somewhere between 600 and 700 yards depending on your BC and atmospherics. For long range it is somewhat useful as a reference to windage, you can use it to kind of cradle the target but there is still a lot of air below the target to the ring. I also use and 200 yard Zero, most of the time, and mostly use the circles at extreme close range. They are very good references for scope offset. As for what Zero to use, whatever you are comfortable with will work just fine. Obviously there is some advantage to using a longer zero if you will be shooting a lot of shots long, but for most of the matches anything you get used to will be fine. DyNo! did some great testing last year that showed that the dials on the Pris are very repeatable too so if you do a little testing and know your ballistics you can zero at one range, preferably a longer range, and then dial a zero as you need it on different stages or matches.

The Pris will not co witness like an Aimpoint or other RDS. The glass is ground and eye relief and scope shadow matters like a magnifying optic. It isn't a huge problem and a good cheek weld will help tremendously. Its just as fast as any RDS for me and the DCD reticle is the way to go. The stock mount is good and it comes with multiple spacers so you can set it up the right height for you. This! Add to it that the circles are very good reference for scope offset for very close shooting. While the reticle is not daylight illuminated, on overcast days the illum works great and the black reticle has never been a problem to see. By the way, ShootfastRunfaster, nice job in Texas! Way to put the Pris to work!

I did somthing wrong and it looks really strange. I'll try again.

The circle plex can be very good in short matches, it’s just when you get out past the 200 mark that things get tough. Eotech, Aimpoint, Burris, Bushnells, and several others all have some very nice red dot type sights that could also work. I played wit hsome before settling on the Pris for me. The Eotech with multiple dots for BDC ws very interesting but the one I ordered never showed up, so I didn't get to try it out. The standard Eotech was probably me second favorite of the sights I tried. For me, the tube style sights restricted the field of view too much; believe it or not there is a big difference between the reflex tubes and the Pris tube. The Eo was nice and open. I also tried a C-more that would be killer if you could reliably zero the thing at 200 to 300 yards. The big thing with the reflex sights is to make sure you get a 2 MOA dot or smaller. You can affect the perceived size of the dot by adjusting its brightness, but if you start with a smaller dot you have a little more play room. I know you are looking for optics, but, I would be remiss if I didn't at least mention good ol iron sights. Keep in mind that irons are what Kurt Miller still uses and he won the Limited division overall last year, so they are far from out of the picture. Good luck and have fun playing with the different toys out there. I will put in that if you can get a Pris with the DCD you are golden.

The Pris is a great little optic for Limited. Did you get the DCD reticle or the Circle-Plex? If you got the DCD you have the ticket, if not, it’s not bad inside 200 yards on larger targets but the dot is way too big for long shots. Quite a few of us in the Limited class used these last season very successfully. The fact that you have an etched reticle gives you a more crisp edge to use for reference on long shots. The DCD has an approximately 3 MOA center dot, it sound big but you wouldn't really want it any smaller or you wouldn't find it. There is a big difference between an etched dot and a reflex dot. The 3 MOA reference gives you a lot of information out at range so long shorts are very doable. The parallax is less touchy than reflex dots as well at long range and the dials are repeatable. This means you can get your ballistics figured out and reliably adjust your zero as needed. I showed up to one match this year with a 325 zero and after looking at the stages spun it down the prescribed number if clicks for a 200 zero and it was right on. In short, it is a great optic for our game, as long as you have the right reticle. Hope that helps, James

Very Cool! Thanks for the post and Thanks to the sponsors and folks that are doing this! This system looks great, I can't wait to give it a try.

Great News Guys! Like Ken said, last year's match was small, but it was a lot of fun. I have no doubt at all that this year will be even better. Thanks guys; I really hope I can make it again this year.

Wow, 10" targets at 400 yards. That's going to be a challenge for my 5 MOA dot Burris Extreme Tactical red dot, I may need to re-think my set up a bit. It's even tougher once the targets get splattered with mud, aren't painted, and/or it's pouring rain. That was the way my squad had to shoot them last year and it sucked. I too was using a red dot but it did little good when the target isn't visible. Craig Actualy I am registered to shoot Tac-Optics now. The Burris MTAC on 4x should definetly help in that department. I'll still be keeping my fingers crossed for blue skies and sunshine though. I wished I had either a scope or irons vs the red dot that day. The targets were difficult to see but the rain on the lens made it worse. A scope gives a bit of cover to the lens and the irons don't have the issue at all. Definately convinced me that the red dot isn't always the answer in TI. Maybe an Aimpoint on a flip to side LaRue would be the ticket in the hard rain, allowing clear use of the irons. That is if allowed in the match rules. Some don't let you have the option of using either, only one or the other. Irritating at times but it's still all fun overall. Craig If you want to just run one aiming device in the Limited/Tac-Irons division you really owe it to yourself to check out the Leupold Prismatic with the DCD reticle. The center dot is fine enough that it doesn't get in the way and it’s etched in the glass the same as a magnified scope reticle so no battery issues and better performance in the rain than a red dot. The field of view is excellent and the glass is very clear. It is a very reliable scope and a 10" target at 400 yards is no problem to see and precisely line up since you don't get any flaring. A bunch of us in the division use the Pris very successfully last year. So far I have seen nothing out there than can touch it for what it is. That said, good ol irons are still a very solid option if like that kind of thing. James

This sounds like WAY too much fun!

Jeeze! Thanks Mark, I'll take that as a pretty good high point of the year too!

I heard from Polle a couple of days ago, not about confirmation, they burried under three different major matches and are processing more that 650 apps for the three matches. I would bet we will hear shortly.

Just to update the update, I have been running the new K40 mags since June and you can get 21+1 reloadable in them, so no loss there. My initial write-up did say that I thought It would be tough to get 21, but I was wrong it just took a little spring break-in. I did some detailed write-ups about them a while back on this page but in a different K40 thread. I haven't had a single feed issue with them since I switched over and that was running through 4 major 3-Gun matches and 2 regional pistol matches and of course lots of local matches. The only downside I see is that with the factory OAL you cant make a 180gr bullet major with Clays, and that is a nice load. Here is the thread from earlier in the year. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132872

Here is a simple solution that seems to work really well. A Finish shooter buddy told me the other day that they had the same complaints about clay birds; bullets poking holes but not shattering the clay. Their solution was to use two clays, fill the cup of one so that it mounds over the rim with sand or gravel, then capture the sand/gravel with the second clay, cup to cup, and run a strip of tape around the seam to hold the two clays together. I tried it out and is seems to work really well. A 223 hit in the center of the clay caused a really thorough destruction of both clays. After running the idea past EricM, he made the comment that if you had moist sand you could fill both clays and not have any airspace between them, and you might be able to use two rubber bands, at 90 degrees to each other, to hold the clays together. I think this could be the ticket. I will say that I think it would work best if whatever way the clays are held together, they were done en-mass prior to the match so that shooters were not filling and securing clays together. We all know how activators can be set inconsistently by shooters and cause troubles for a stage. I think consistency would be better if the same people filled all of the clays. More work, I know, but it might be worth it. The last small hurdle is how to present the two clays. Most of the clay holders, I have seen anyway, are designed to take one clay facing out. For rifle/pistol, and not using steel holders, it’s easy enough to make a little tape tail that can be stapled to a backer of some sort for hanging. This is what I did at the range when I tried the two clay and sand approach. The easy way to do this is to take a strip of tape 6" to 8" long and stick one end of it to the outside face of a clay, starting at the edge of the center flat area, then press it into the contours of the clay to the outer edge, stick the other end of the tape to the back side of the same clay at about the same location and press it into the contour of the clay and out to the outer edge again. Now there is a loop formed in the tape with the clay at both ends, stick the loop to itself and you have a nice little hanger. This works for one or two clays. One of the nice things about this approach, as I see it, is that we could continue to use a target that we are familiar with from a size and presentation point of view. Leave it to those Fins to come up with a good solution for this! James

YAY! I just picked up two, New Fixed Rear Sights, from Henning for my Limited guns. Henning has been really busy with several big projects that are coming in the near future so he hasn't had time to put these on his web-site just yet (they were only finished in the past week) but if you call the shop they can get you taken care of. There are two models made to fit the Limited guns, one with dog ears and a wider notch and one with square cornders and a medium notch. Both look great, have beefy set screws and really nice clean lines across the back face. I would say my broken rear sight problems are now a thing of the past! I'm heading to the range with them today, so I'll post a follow up to this afterwords. James

Extremely good info! Thanks for sharing your findings. One question that came up in my mind was; how far inset are you finally taking the spring retainer? The reason I ask, is it seems that the contact face of the polymer pushrod could be essentially chiseled away by the offset face of the metal piston if the inset is too great. Not having performed the tests myself this is just a question. I would love to hear about what you find out in that area. Thanks again! James

Super Po-Boy version. Again not great for bird shot, it chews up whatever the clays are stapled to, but this works great for rifle and pistol.

If you’re not married to the 180s you can make a very nice (and sub-max) Major load with N320 and 165s at factory length.

Sorry not meant as a quote reply.

Ouch! Sorry to see that. However, it does, in blood red, seem to underline that part of the problem at least is releasing the bolt before things are where they should be. It looks like you were on track to better than double the number of FTFs with the button installed as without. Out of curiosity, were the bolt release parts polished with the work that was done earlier to the gun? If so, it’s possible that they have been made a bit too light. Just another thought. Hope the thumb heals up quickly so you can get back to loading. James

Rich at Canyon Creek does a really nice job. Otherwise there are a few guys around that do great work on triggers etc., but they don't really do custom cuts on the slides or frames. It's a little bit more rarified area with custom Tanfo work. I'm sure there are some others out there that can/do custom cuts but I am not familiar with them.

Sounds Good. I look forward to hearing the results. Happy Thanksgiving to you too. James

I thought you use targets pasters... SHSH! That's the super secret fix! Actually, I do use a target paster on top of the sight to keep the elevation screw from moving under recoil. It really does work but it looks pretty silly. The Green Lock-tite works better to fill the windage adjustment and keep the blade from flopping around. I have used Red on the elevation adjustment but recently I've been lazy and just stuck the paster on there.

That is a bummer! Thankfully I got lucky and my Canadian roots migrated south about 50 years ago. Keep checking in with Henning though, I know he is working on some new export options to get back to the rest of the world and keep everyone legal and happy. In the meantime, one trick with the LPA sights that will expend their life is to adjust them to where you want them and then flood all of the adjustments with Green (penetrating) Lock-tite. This helps to stop the flapping around that contributes to parts flying off at really inconvenient times. James

Hey Kyreb, Little background; I have been shooting the SLP for a little over a year; I definitely will not claim to be an expert, but I have fiddled with the thing pretty extensively and managed just about every type of jam/malfunction you could imagine. That said, I love my SLP and it has run flawlessly is most of the major 3-Gun matches this year. The fiddling was done last winter in practice. The jam you show below is really scary and I will venture to say that it is a combination of technique and equipment that is contributing. The only time that I have had similar jams with my SLP are when I activate the bolt release too quickly upon dropping the shell into the ejection port. I ran the stock bolt release button for most of the time that I have been shooting it and only recently added the Nordic extension. In hundreds of loads with the stock button I can't think of single time this happened. Right after adding the extension, I had it happen twice in one match; the extractor thankfully did not impact the primer. What I have diagnosed as my problem is that my technique for dropping the new round in the port and hitting the button needs to be modified so that I don't prematurely drop the bolt. The butt of my palm was hitting the release extension. To that end I will also be trimming down the release extension a bit. My mistake was not practicing this technique more before the last match with the added release extension and my technique was set for a bit closer clearance of the gun with the stock button. My suggestion would be to take the extension off and try a few loads with your current technique. If the problem is solved then you are in the same boat as me. If it isn't solved, then there are other issues. To name a couple, check that when the lifter was welded up nothing was changed to push the rim of the shell out towards the ejection port, try replacing your lifter dog spring, and definitely bell/smoother the edges at the rear of the chamber (but just a bit). I hope this helps. I would be very interested to know your results and what finally works. Good luck! James

There are two more options that are coming shortly. Henning will be releasing his own adjustable and fixed sights for the Limited guns and the Stock guns will follow in the near future. Henning's new sights are in direct responce to the problems we have all been having with the dang LPA sights falling apart.